issue with my 98 SE Path

[svar]

Guys I need some guidance.

 

friday night I was going out, start my car and after a few second start to shutter and off... CEL appears.

 

i connect the scanner and it show P0325 reffer to knock sensor.

 

and I have doubts this sensor can cause my car, start fine and after 10 sec start to stall rpm get low and off?

 

I did clear contact of all reachable connector and also clean the distributor cap, seems to be good.

 

 

help plz

[bushnut]

have you checked fuel lines and filter? Bad gas?

The other day my truck was running ruff no CEL, I ran my code reader and a knock sensor code showed up, I ran it until almost empty, re-filled with premium gas and then cleared the code. no more issues. now runs like a champ.

Edited September 21, 2014 by bushnut

[Slartibartfast]

The knock code didn't make the engine stall, the stuttering/stalling engine set off the knock code. Sounds like the fuel system to me too. Could be a clogged fuel filter, could be the fuel pump's not kicking on, could be an issue with the fuel itself. Make sure there's gas in the tank, listen for the pump hum, change the filter, let us know what you find.

[Quaintbucket]

Fuel system or EGR.

[JeffsR50]

yep I really only got the p0325 when other stuff was going on...some injector cleaner maybe?

[svar]

it seems the problem is related, swap fuel pump relay, no go, trow carburetor cleaner when the car was shuttering and it remain on with no problem, so the problem is fuel, I will replace the fuel filter if not, then is fuel pump.

 

note: I did relocate the knock sensor also, think it was related : /

Edited September 22, 2014 by svar

[Quaintbucket]

Knock sensor will not kill your engine. All it does it adjust the timing ever so slightly to compensate for any change in the engine.

 

The fuel system or your EGR is the likely culprit. I would look at your EGR to make sure it's working properly on start up and not sticking up (which kills your engine).

[Precise1]

Was your car hot or cold when this happened?

Your info says a 1998, so this is a R50 with a VG33 motor? I have to ask as some countries have different model years and engine configurations and that would be a big difference.

 

No harm in changing the fuel filter, it is cheap and easy. Check the fuel pump for function and pressure before just changing it (along with the pressure regulator), but before that, check one sensor, the engine coolant temp sensor.

TEMP C Resistance

20 2.1-2.9 ohms

50 .68-1.00 ohms

90 .236-.290 ohms

 

On a friends truck, the wiring to this sensor was compromised (were able to clean/rebuild it) and when it warmed up, it acted like a kill switch. Died immediately, would not start in a perfectly running vehicle.

 

B

 

 

[fixinto]

^ ECTS ohm it. ^ if you havent changed the filter since you have owned the truck throw one at it

Knock sensor code is always there on our rides "well just about" it wont throw a check engine code.

If it detects a Knock, it retards the timing to prevent ../shrug supersonic rod ejection? because if its knocking that bad then its probably having issues anyways.

I had a knock sensor code on mine every time i read it for 6yrs, and it drove perfectly with no CEL. when i changed it "it was split in the middle" Also if you did a relocation investigate the vacuum hose in the back of the manifold. But check all of the free stuff first.

all of that being said, before you get crazy with the cheez whiz, ohm meters, and box end spanners / wrenches,

check the tube from the air box to the throttle body VERY carefully for cracks. After you start it rev it and see if it will stay running while reving. Vacuum leak will kill it at idle. make a note whether it dies with your foot on or off the brake or both "quick and dirty way to exclude the master cylinder for your brakes" Also if you did a relocation investigate the vacuum hose in the back of the manifold coming from your fuel regulator, as well as the one under the TB. Check and make sure your relocation wiring is sound. If you have an ohm meter the knock sensor should ohm.... tentatively between 200k and 600k, all i remember if memory serves is 420k middle reading on the ohm meter. "your fsm should have the range" Meter the connector to make sure you don't have an open or short between the pins.

If you can spray it and it says running it should be either a fuel pressure or air leak fix. GL with her.

 

Pat

[svar]

well guys I did change the fuel filter and is back with not issues, I clean a plenty of connector with contact cleaner, I relocate the knock sensor, I was sad because I have the AC lift sitting there waiting to be installed and the car can't move hahahah, but finally I able to resolve.

 

thanks guys for the help and guidance on the thinks I had to look, I will put the lift this weekend and post a picture when is done