Chaser999 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Hello to all, I have to address some routine maintenance on the ol girl (131k miles). Jiffy lube ran the service engine codes a few months ago and told me it's a radiator flush and a fuel system cleanout. Does anyone have an advice on how to perform these yourself? I've never had to do either to a vehicle and I would like to save a few bucks if I have the ability to do them myself. I believe Jiffy-lube wanted 200 bucks to do both. If i can save some money a lift isn't too far off my future. Chase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Engine codes? I wouldn't take their words for it. Did you get the exact code number? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I wouldn't believe what jiffy lube told you, I've never heard of anything throwing a code for a radiator flush, or a fuel system cleaning. Either have a legit mechanic pull the code or get a parts store to pull the codes (several will do this for free) and do some research once you have the codes in hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 If you can't remember the last time you changed the coolant, doing it now wouldn't be a bad idea (if it's still green I wouldn't worry too much). You can throw some Gumout or something in the fuel tank if you want, but unless it's giving you issues, I think Iffy Lube was scamming you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I'd like to know which sensor is in the cooling system that would throw a code .. period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 They might just be talking about doing these as regular maintenance. You should be able to change your own anti freeze and fuel filter for less than $200 though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaser999 Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Damn, I guess I was a little naive. I'll have to get up to advanced (assuming they're free) on my next day off and have them run the code. If this is scheduled maintenance I would like to go ahead and address it anyway. So do I drain the radiator (if its not green) and replace it with fresh coolant? Then I could change the fuel filter and that takes care of both of these issues? I've had the truck for 40k miles and I've only changed the oil with high mileage castrol and I put new tires on her about 30k ago. She needs some love. Any other maintenance y'all would suggest? Thanks for the friendly advice, this community is truly great!! -Chase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 The timing belt if it was never done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 You don't need to use high mileage oil. They have additives that wears down the seals and gasket, if I recall correctly. I would do the following things if you haven't done them yet: 1) Timing belt 2) Tune up (Spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, dist. rotor, air filter, fuel filter) 3) Check your transmission fluid. You got a dipstick on the passenger side of the engine compartment. If it's red, you're solid. If it's not and/or has metal shavings.... do what you gotta do. 4) Clean your MAF sensor. Your truck will love you for it just be careful because that's a $200-300 part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 You don't need to use high mileage oil. They have additives that wears down the seals and gasket, if I recall correctly. I would do the following things if you haven't done them yet: 1) Timing belt 2) Tune up (Spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, dist. rotor, air filter, fuel filter) 3) Check your transmission fluid. You got a dipstick on the passenger side of the engine compartment. If it's red, you're solid. If it's not and/or has metal shavings.... do what you gotta do. 4) Clean your MAF sensor. Your truck will love you for it just be careful because that's a $200-300 part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Disregard the suggestion to change the timing belt, you state in the thread title that you have an '02, as long as that is correct, you have the 3.5 engine which has a timing chain (which requires no service as long as there are no abnormal noises). Since (I assume) you have an '02 with the 3.5, you can also disregard the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires, as these engines use coil-on-plug style ignitions. With 131k on the clock, my recommendations (in no particular order of importance) are: Coolant flush Air Filter Fuel Filter Spark plugs PCV valve Clean the MAF (carefully) Transmission fluid & filter Drain & fill Transfer case (assuming you have 4x4) Drain and fill front & rear differentials (also a good idea to make sure the vents are working properly while doing this) These are all fairly simple tasks that can be done as time and money allow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaser999 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Yea mine has a timing a chain so I'm good there. I drove up to advanced today to have them run the check engine light and of course it went away while I was driving up there. I went ahead and ordered a cabin air filter and I bought some detailing items. The factory suggests changing the cabin air filter every 5k miles (I made that up but it's not alot) and I have never done it so maybe that could be it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Cabin air filter and air filters are two different things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 You know even if the engine light is off, the code will still be stored in the computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaser999 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Yea I'm aware they are two different things. The guy at advanced mentioned that he might be able to pull the code from the computers memory but nothing popped up when he tried. He said i may just have a sensor loose somewhere that "jiggles when I drive". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GePa Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) Sounds like.......... Sorry to said that be i had too many bad experience with mechanics, that tried to be TOO SMART and rip me off . 200 US Dollars to DO both is an OVERKILL. 1) The radiator Flush is extremly easy to do..... Even it's in the manual as do it yourself... You need to make a MIX of 50/50 Coolant and distilled water. 2)If they are going to do a true fuel system cleanout, that means they need to change injectors as well.... And a single Injector alone cost like 100 bucks...... So what they are going to do with their "cleanout" is just pour some " MAGIC INJECTOR CLEANER!!!!!! AS SEEN ON TV!!!!" on the fuel tank that cost like 10 bucks. Edited August 22, 2014 by GePa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaser999 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 Yea I was just looking into to doing the Radiator fush myself. Does anyone have opinions about being able to force clean the radiator with water pressure or simply doing the "boiling' type version with a chemical? If i'm going to flush and put new coolant in, I want to clean it as well before adding new. Chase On a side note, I replaced the cabin air filter today. My old one, which had seen 40k miles, was nasty and full of particulates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 I think most people just rinse out the block and radiator with a garden hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 I would do garden hose. No high pressure water because you are dealing with 15+ year rubber tubings. Have fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Garden hose will work just fine. I always try to stay away from the "cleaners" as they can be a bit too harsh on the assorted materials that make up our cooling systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 I wouldn't believe what jiffy lube told you, I've never heard of anything throwing a code for a radiator flush, or a fuel system cleaning. Either have a legit mechanic pull the code or get a parts store to pull the codes (several will do this for free) and do some research once you have the codes in hand. This Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaser999 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 I was finally able to make it to autozone with the light on and the code it ran was P1491 which i read on here is a vacuum valve of somesort. I don't have rough idle or any symptoms of something wrong. The day after I had the code pulled my pathy made the 4 hour trip down to the OBX. I tried to locate the four way disc looking piece but didn't have much luck. Is this something I should be extremely worried about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 It's located on top of a metal plate kind of bracket (both vacuum bypass valve and vacuum cut valve are next to each other on this bracket) above the rear axle, closer to the driver side. Don't be overly concerned, it's not something that's going to cause harm or leave you stranded somewhere, just might notice mpg's drop slightly. Very common that these get a bit cooked when the infamous exhaust connection over the axle rots out and the truck is still driven for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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