MxPathFinder Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Well, this is frustrating. Went to drive my truck yesterday and it wouldn't start. Everything worked, but starter didn't turn over. No click. Nothing. Took battery out and had it checked. Its good. Took alternator out and had it checked. It's good. Took starter out and had it checked. Its good. After I cleaned the wires going to the starter, and with a fresh charge on the battery, it started fine and I drove to work. When I went to start it again, it turned over very slow like it has a dead battery, and didn't start. I parked on a hill so, hopefully I can bump start it to get home from work. Any idea what is going on here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 This could be a few things: A circuit it open somewhere draining the battery. The battery isnt charging because it has a bad cell(s). The battery isnt getting a full charge from the alternator because of a bad alternator and/or corroded/loose wiring. some things to check: First off, are there ANY warning lamps on the instrument cluster that are on such as BATT or BRAKE? Check the terminals to the battery are corrosion free and tight. Check the fusible links to make sure they are not corroded. Check all the interior lamps and make sure they are off. Check the five door pin switches, make sure they turn the lamps off and on with you press them. Check that any exterior lamps such as brake lamps or side markers are still on when the vehicle is off. If there is an aftermarket radio amp, that it is it powering off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MxPathFinder Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 (edited) Thanks Alkorahil! I answered your questions in italics below. Just went out on my lunch break and checked. I bump started the truck and drove around the parking lot. The only thing I noticed was the swing away spare tire rack warning light was on but only when it is running. Even with the rack closed tight, the plunger wasn't pushing in far enough to turn the switch off. I don't have tools with me to adjust so I just jammed a wad of tape in there enough so that the warning light went off. Drove around for a while. Truck ran perfect. Everything worked (even A/C). Turned the truck off. Tried to start. Nothing. Happy I have a hill to park on. The answers to your questions below: A circuit it open somewhere draining the battery. The battery isnt charging because it has a bad cell(s). Had this checked. They said its a good battery The battery isnt getting a full charge from the alternator because of a bad alternator and/or corroded/loose wiring. Had it checked. They said its a good alternator some things to check: First off, are there ANY warning lamps on the instrument cluster that are on such as BATT or BRAKE? The spare tire rack warning light is on, but only when engine is running. Check the terminals to the battery are corrosion free and tight. Cleaned them yesterday. Check the fusible links to make sure they are not corroded. Not sure where these are located. Check all the interior lamps and make sure they are off. All off Check the five door pin switches, make sure they turn the lamps off and on with you press them. They work Check that any exterior lamps such as brake lamps or side markers are still on when the vehicle is off. All off If there is an aftermarket radio amp, that it is it powering off. There is, and it shuts off. Edited August 4, 2014 by MxPathFinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 have you checked for 12V on the battery cables instead of the battery posts? Had a situation where there was a bad connection to the batt clamp on the + side and, even thought the battery read fine, there was no power to start. Usually, this is bad connection when clamping in the battery. Battery post will read 12V and clamps will not. Also check while running if posts read 14V+. if so, alternator is putting out fine. The next thing I would do is see if the failure is immediate (after a full charge and checked for 12V) or if it is after some time (check battery voltage before trying to start after sitting to see if 12V or if it has drained). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 I would say it's got to be the battery. Most batteries last only 3 or 4 years and the symptoms you describe happened exactly the same with mine. Bought a new battery and no more problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MxPathFinder Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Bump started it and hooked it up to my neighbors handheld computer last night. Everything checks out fine. But, won't turn over. "Tapped" on the starter a few times and it turned very very slow, but started. Repeated this sequence a few more times just to be sure it wasn't a fluke. Guy at the shop told me that sometimes starters will bench check in good condition, but under pressure of the flywheel, they may not work. Guess I'll pick up a starter on the way home from work tonight. Good times! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 I think it's your starter, I've experienced something very similar, if not this exact scenario before and it was a bad starter. You could probably try turning the key back and forth trying to start ten times over and it may catch a time or two. If not the starter, then Ignition relay maybe? That's easier to check, start there with the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MxPathFinder Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 First of all, BIG THANKS to everyone that helped out, and a big thanks also to this forum. This job would have been even worse if I hadn't read the "how to" section before I got started. And on the plus side, at least now I know how to change a starter and alternator. The lucky winner is.... Starter. The old, possibly original, Nissan starter was a pice of cake to pull out (and put back in). The new, remanufactured starter was a HUGE PITA to put in! Seems like the solenoid is in a slightly different position. I'll be keeping the old Nissan starter to have rebuilt and keep as an extra. I think what sent me down the wrong path to begin with was when the shop checked the battery and said it was fine, but needed a charge. I started thinking alternator. I guess the bad starter put a stain on an otherwise good battery? Oh well, the job is finished now and its running perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Glad it was fairly painless! Just a FYI in the future, a couple of things worth checking (read:free and easy) is to make sure that your battery ground strap is cleanly/well connected to the chassis/frame and to also check what the voltage is at the starter when it cranks. The ground is often overlooked but part of the circuit, and quite a few people have replaced their power cable to the starter due to it not carrying sufficient voltage. I like to check everything before I start pulling parts... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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