No drive in "Drive" ! ?

[SAR]

Just bought a 1989 SE 4X4 V-6, automatic, 187K on the odo.

 

Previous owner reports that he was driving, in "Drive" and lost all drive, no reverse, either.

 

Fluid looks/smells fresh, red, unburnt and full.

 

Parking pawl works, as does neutral.

 

Towed it home.

 

Where do I start?

 

Thanks in advance.

[adamzan]

Sounds like bad torque converter to me. I would drain the fluid and remove the pan. It might tell you something. It may look fresh because the previous owner changed it trying to fix it.

[ahardb0dy]

Could be the clutches in the tranny are shot, when my tranny went out the first time in my 87 HB I lost drive (first I think it actually was) and my tranny guy told me reverse would go out next as they are on the same clutch pack.'

 

Have you tried seeing if the truck will move at all in 1 or 2 instead of drive?

 

If it turns out to be a internal problem better off doing the xterra trans swap, Adam can guide you through that as he just did it in his, I had the tranny rebuilt in my 87 hardbody, 3 times, each time cost $2k or more, wouldn't do it again

[SAR]

When I've had clutches go bad before, there was warning by the presence of slippage and heat. Report says none, just lost drive to wheels "like I'd thrown a switch."

 

Can the often faulty "Line pressure valve solenoid" be the culprit here?

 

If a tranny loses line pressure, will it all but "freewheel"?

 

I don't know much about trannys.

 

TIA.

[Slartibartfast]

I agree with adamzan, "like I'd thrown a switch" sounds an awful lot like a dead torque converter.

 

There's a procedure in the FSM to check for trans trouble codes (which would tell you if you had a solenoid out). It's in the AT section (download link around here somewhere).

[ThaBigPerm]

Assuming there were no warning signs/sounds/smells/disturbances-in-the-force and it was as quick as "flipping a switch", I'd even have to doubt the TC on this one. Most TCs go out either gradually, making whirring/whining noises then eventually grinding before going completely out (and usually taking the trans with it from bearing shrapnel), or suffer catastrophic structural failure (usually in drag race applications, and not daily driver stuff). Clutch packs likewise generally slip and cause other grief before going completely out, as was already mentioned. This smells like a sudden loss of fluid pressure - either the pump (though that might also be noisy on the way out too) or something gone wrong in the valve body preventing engagement of the clutch packs.

[SkiMachine]

Dead upon purchase? Who knows what really happened to it then, unless the PO is family or something. Time to go down the checklists in the FSM. As others have said, a line pressure check would be a good place to start. The magnet in the pan is another good indicator of what really happened since it is unlikely the PO pulled the pan if trying a fluid change quick-fix. Once the pan is off the solenoids and VB are right there if the evidence suggests they're the culprits.

[SAR]

Dead before purchase. Not dead, really, disabled, handicapped, maybe, but engine and accessories work.

 

Is there a FSM online?

 

Thanks!

[SAR]

Can anyone decipher this, and, if so, is it applicable? THX!

 

http://www.240edge.com/manuals/89-90_240sx/auto_tra.pdf

[Slartibartfast]

Another PDF to add to my files? Don't mind if I do.

 

There's an info plate in the engine bay, passenger's side, back by the hood hinge, that has your transmission model stamped on it (among other things). Mine says RE4R01A, which is the first one listed in the PDF; I assume yours is the same. If so, then yes, it is applicable.

 

Unless something else jumps out at you, I'd start with the code check procedure. Just make sure the section you're in is applicable to the Pathfinder, looks like there's a lot of different vehicles lumped together in there.

 

Edit: Looks like it has you test for power at the trans computer. That's in the passenger's rear quarter, accessible from the cargo area behind the trim. You'll have to pull the strip under the rear hatch (be careful with the screws, they're plastic and strip really easily) to get the side off, and then IIRC there are three Phillips screws holding the trans computer to the sheet metal.

Edited July 25, 2014 by Slartibartfast

[SAR]

Thank you, kind sir!

[tmoore4512]

Okay, so I have to disagree with the TC portion.

Here is why:

I swapped transmissions about 2 maybe 3 weeks ago. Put a brand new torque converter in jjust to be on the safe side (Thanks RockAuto.com)

Anyway, day before yesterday my dang transmission started slipping bad in 4th gear. Not sure if it was a slip or if it just went straight into neutral. But it was pulling fine then bam, nothing. Pulled over, and no reverse, or 1 or 2. Turned truck off, then back on and it drives fine for several hundred yards, then does the same thing. So, to not do any more damage I park it. I do the fluid check etc etc. Ended up draining fluid and replacing, just for S&G's (and to make me feel better.) Nothing. So it sat overnight at TSC, and I came back with a trailer. Just to let my curiosity ease a bit...I started it, and what the...it drives...but no sooner do I back out of the spot it was left and pull forward to the trailer, it quits pulling. Load it up (thank God for the winch) and upon arrival at my buddies shop...it drives all around his yard as he is laughing at me telling me I am retarded.

So...not the TC. I dont know what it is, but I cannot trust it to be reliable...so I am back to the drawing board unfortunately.