ebayfish Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 I've got the good 'ol 3.0. I've had it for 3 months now with no issues. I've replaced the timing belt, fuel filter, oil & filter, cleaned throttle body, water pump, thermostat, all belts, etc. The other day it developed a tiny miss while cruising. That has developed to a major loss of power when the engine is under a load. I got a c.e. light & flashed egr function code. My experience with an egr in other vehicles is constant small sputters, nothing like this. I'm assuming as with all the other parts I've replaced, the plugs, wires, rotor cap & button are probably factory original. The wires are a Japanese brand, Yasaki or something like that. Do you think I should start with the electrical system or egr? The egr codes haven't came back after I cleared it. Is it possible(without too much cussing) to change the plugs without pulling the intake plennum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987caddy Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) When my o2 sensor was going out, it had no power under load and cel stayed on under acceleration. Might want to check it first. Intake doesn't have to be pulled to change plugs. First two plugs on drivers side go between intake runners and the back plug isn't bad with swivel and extension Edited April 12, 2014 by 1987caddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebayfish Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Is the only o2 sensor on the exhaust under the drivers seat or are there others? Is it possible to test it or do you blindly change it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Just the one sensor. Looks like page EF&EC 96 of the FSM shows a test procedure. If you haven't downloaded the service manual, do it, it comes in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebayfish Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 I just googled their o2 sensors & saw prices ranged from $18-150....is there any brands I should shy awat from? Some had a new connector, other you resplixe wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 I would use only ngk for the o2 sensor. Even though it is just a discrete sensor (on/off), the set point reliability of the ngk is oem spec. Ngk supplied the factory pathy sensor. I got mine and my gfs for about 50$ shipped for the direct fit. The splice in models would work just fine as well, just make sure they are ngk. Bosch would probably be fine as well since they supplied the oem vg30de o2 sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Definitely clean out the egr and test its function per the fsm before blindly replacing parts though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 I would use only ngk for the o2 sensor. Even though it is just a discrete sensor (on/off), the set point reliability of the ngk is oem spec. Ngk supplied the factory pathy sensor. I got mine and my gfs for about 50$ shipped for the direct fit. The splice in models would work just fine as well, just make sure they are ngk. Bosch would probably be fine as well since they supplied the oem vg30de o2 sensors.Oem for the 94-95 years was Bosch. That's what I've pulled out of both my wd21s. The ngk ones work great and they are cheaper too lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebayfish Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 For that EGR, is the problem generally with the carbon buildup in the piston or the remote electronics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 I would expect carbon buildup or cracked vacuum lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaBigPerm Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 When my o2 sensor was going out, it had no power under load and cel stayed on under acceleration. Might want to check it first. Intake doesn't have to be pulled to change plugs. First two plugs on drivers side go between intake runners and the back plug isn't bad with swivel and extension I would suggest blowing out the plug recesses pretty good after removing the wires but before pulling the plugs. Mine had a ton of grit and leaf bits in there, and you wouldn't want that crud falling into the cylinders. A flashlight and uncomfortable angle will reveal whether there's any crud to be concerned about down there, but there usually is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Oem for the 94-95 years was Bosch. That's what I've pulled out of both my wd21s. The ngk ones work great and they are cheaper too lol. Well that makes sense as my pathys are 93 and they had a rusted old ngk with a Nissan stamp on it when I pulled them out. Guess Nissan switched to Bosch with the round dash trucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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