CharmedHope Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I have a 1990 Pathy, and I have managed to break both sway bar mounts, I've been trying to find replacements so I can fix it but I'm having no luck locating them at any parts stores. I don't have much experience in working on suspension issues so, should I be looking for something different or are they something I'll have to order from Nissan?? And how hard is it to replace them? Any info, help and suggestions appreciated! Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Front or back mounts? Out of curiosity, how in the heck did you do that??? Anyway, the JY is probably your best bet or if you have more money than time maybe Alkorahil (member who deals Nissan parts cheaply) can help. I think I have a pair of the forward mounts in the garage somewhere if you cant find any.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) Exactly which "mount" are you talking about? Where it attaches to the frame or lower control arm(front suspension)? At the axle or frame sides(rear)? A picture would help tons! Edited March 30, 2014 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharmedHope Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 It's the front, the brackets that attach the bushing brackets to the frame, I took a couple pics, hopefully that will help!! Both of them snapped in the same spot, I noticed when driving it yesterday that it was pulling a bit, harder to steer and and squeaky noise so I parked it. Is it safe to drive like this or should I just leave it sit til I can fix it?? Thanks again!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 little rusty ! You can probably order the front and rear parts from Rob on here, or a junkyard, I would highly recommend spraying some good penetrating oil on those bolts for about a week ahead of the time you may attempt to remove them, with the amount of rust on there, I would be surprised if those bolts came out without breaking. I broke the rear part on my old 87 hardbody but it was from driving over a curb at speed, my buddy welded them back together for me. In later model years I noticed they changed the design slightly and fitted a gusset to the mount, right about where yours broke. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 (edited) You could drive like that, it shouldn't hurt anything else but I would do so as little as possible on principle. As you noticed, the handling and perhaps steering characteristics will be different/not as good. Do you plan to replace these yourself? If so, it is just the 3 bolts per side you see but as was said, those bottom bolts might need a bit of persuading to remove and the top piece might be easiest just to cut or grind off. You will need the brackets for each side, and two new bushings (the brackets could be new or used). While you are there, how are the down links on either end? It might be worth redoing the entire bar connections... I feel bad for you salt state people, that would suck to deal with. B Welcome to NPORA BTW! Edited March 31, 2014 by Precise1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 BTW the top half of the brackets are the same, the bottoms are left and right 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharmedHope Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Yeah, I plan on doing it myself, most likely going to redo all of it since I'll be down there anyway. I finally found a couple sites that I can order the parts from, they're fairly cheap, now all I need then is a couple days of nice weather!! Ohio definitely sucks for a vehicle, especially since I have no garage! This year has been a mess, but my Pathy had no problems getting me where I needed to go!! Thanks for all the suggestions and the warm welcome! I'll post "after" pics when I get her done!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 order the parts thru Rob on this site, he works in the parts dept at a dealer, he takes care of us members, ask him for what you need in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-49?do=findComment&comment=713631 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Ok, in that case, make sure to soak those bolts with a Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc) like ahardb0dy said, you might need an impact gun or breaker bar to get them to break free. Do you have tools and experience (or access to both)? Rob Lacy (Alkorahil, a member here) in the link above is a great resource, but something like this need not be a dealership item (not sure about the brackets though) Rock Auto is a great resource, and we have a 5% discount code with them in the Classified/Vendors or Services section. I see they have a stabilizer bar link set (everything needed, made by ACDelco) for $5.88. And a set of stabilizer bar bushings by the same for $10, but some are as low as $4. I don't see the brackets though. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=kc4sp7uc66i4mmb4knndb5ete3 Obviously, buy from where you are comfortable with or whatever. Yeah, I spent most of my life without a garage, so I know how challenging (read miserable) that can make it, and it doesn't even snow here! The Pathfinders are pretty good vehicles, that is for sure! You are welcome, we are glad to help. That is the point of the site after all... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 brackets will be dealer or junkyard items only 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) 56234-88G00 BRKT STABILIZER, RH $13.24 56235-88G00 BRKT STABILIZER, LH $13.24 56231-41G10 BRACKET-STABILIZER $3.26 EACH QTY NEEDED:2 54613-88G00 BUSHING-STABILIZER $6.83 EACH, QTY NEEDED:2 You may also want to replace the endlinks to the stabilizer bar: 56112-V0100 BUSHING, STABILIZER $2.51 ea QTY NEEDED: 8 54630-02E0A COLLAR, STABILIZER $3.33 QTY NEEDED: 2 56113-60U0A WASHER-LOCK $1.34 QTY NEEDED: 8 54618-02E0A BOLT, STABILIZER $21.91 QTY NEEDED: 8 Edited April 2, 2014 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stabworthy Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 looks like that bad boy could use some time with a wire wheel and chassis saver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Yea but that wire wheel just lets the rust have more of the steel that it's after because we end up re-doing that work 3 years later and it doesn't look any different!! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APACHECHIEF13 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Junkyard or just take it off and save some money if you don't mind a little body roll but you would not notice if any Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 General concensus is that removing the rear sway bar produces some body roll, removing the as well front makes it roll a lot. I'm not sure about front removal and rear use though as most people only care about the articulation. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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