RF600 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Well I am looking for some help on my wobbly rig. 95 Pathfinder 4x4, manual trans. I have aftermarket wheels. I have pulled the axles and looked to see the retainers came lose, they were fine. Replaced the u joints in the rear driveline. Replaced the center link and had an alignment. Half shafts replaced approx 1 year ago. Had the tires balanced more than once just in case. Wheel bearings were replaced a while ago. I put the rear on jack stands to possible see if there was a bent axle. Looked fine. While I was there I looked at the driveline, looked fine. It is not a constant vibration. I feel it about 60 mph. It will start out bad then smooth out, but still there. I think it is coming from the front end. Although I don't know. I am not sure what else could be causing the issue. Does anyone have any ideas???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Have you replaced or inspected the tension rod bushings, if they are loose you can get a wander/wobbling feel at speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TutorN1 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I have an R50, 99, the struts are bad on it, and it's doing the same thing. I can't remember if the WD21 have them or not, but worth checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Yep, tension rod bushings are possibly part of the issue, but it could be a few other things with a little play as well. The ball joints, tie rod ends and/or idler arm could be part of it. It vibrates bad at 60 and then smooths out which makes me believe it is resonating, not a constant issue (often attributed to wheel balance). Can you swap some rims/tires just for a test drive? I have a spare set if you are down here again. Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel or more so in the whole truck? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 The shake starts in the front and stays in the front. It did the same thing with the other wheels on also. I have replaced the lower ball joints when I did the half shafts. Tie rods are ok, not sloppy. The upper ball joints were ok at that time. I feel it in the whole truck. Mostly the front. I have searched tension bushings on the interwebs and there seems to be a lot of issues with them. That is what I will address next. Hopefully it won't take too long to get the parts. Not sure if I want to order the races before I dive into it, LM67010. There is no rust on the frame so I don't know if the metal behind the bushings will be rotten or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 It isn't really rust that messes up the hole, its the fact that the bushings are loose. The rod starts to move and wears the hole into an oval shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 ^Correct, and moisture does get trapped in there as well. The 3 WD21's I've worked on all needed them replaced and that was with 100-130k miles. AFAIC they should be a 60k maintenance item. The shake starts in the front and stays in the front. It did the same thing with the other wheels on also. I have replaced the lower ball joints when I did the half shafts. Tie rods are ok, not sloppy. The upper ball joints were ok at that time. I feel it in the whole truck. Mostly the front. I have searched tension bushings on the interwebs and there seems to be a lot of issues with them. That is what I will address next. Hopefully it won't take too long to get the parts. Not sure if I want to order the races before I dive into it, LM67010. There is no rust on the frame so I don't know if the metal behind the bushings will be rotten or not. Ok, that helps define it. Absolutely, see above. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaBigPerm Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) I'd try to rule out water in a tire or two. Sounds crazy, but some compressors blow quite a bit of moisture, esp in humid weather, if they're not mantained or blown down frequently enough. Edit: oops - looks like you've already swapped wheels and had the same issue. Edited March 9, 2014 by ThaBigPerm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I ordered poly bushings. I am debating on ordering the races and going that route. Even if I don't have to put them in. I would assume that the races get welded to the tab that the tension rod goes through? Weld the races on both sides and install the tension rods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Yes, you would weld the bearing races on where the cups should be. If the cups are existent and in decent shape, there is no point in replacing them... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 I replaced the tension rod bushings with poly. While I was there I replaced the upper bal joints. The upper joints we not bad. A little movement but not a lot. I took it on a small test drive. I still had a little vibration. I will drive it around more and see if it is better. If there is still a vibration, maybe a new idler arm is in order, maybe a brace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 After installing a brace from a/c my front shutter was much better, after all new tie rods and center link, tension rod bushings and alignment it's riding very smooth. Also includes a 3 inch lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 After installing a brace from a/c my front shutter was much better, after all new tie rods and center link, tension rod bushings and alignment it's riding very smooth. Also includes a 3 inch lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Sorry double tapped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 What were you trying to say? (I can edit things...) B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Have you checked the 2 bolts (each side) that hold the upper control arm on to the frame to make sure they are not loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 B was just saying that brace helped and now really good with everything else replaced, then I accidentally posted twice ie double tap...LOL all's good.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 What brace are you talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Idle arm brace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 The vibration is still present. I made a brace from some 3/16 plate I had left over. Alignment tomorrow. Not sure what else I can do except live with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Did the photo of brace help you design your brace? I hope they helped you out. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Is it possible you have a bad tire or wheel in both sets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Did you check the Upper control arm bolts? Funny I mention that, I did brakes on my step daughters Tahoe today and she was telling me every time she backs out of the driveway she hears a clunk noise, so as soon as I raised the caliper I saw the upper control arm rear side move, I tried to move it with a large screw driver and it moved, Turns out the UCA bolt was loose ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 I had a chance to talk with the guy who did the alignment the things I have talked about the things I mentioned here. He thinks it is drive train related. I don't know where should I look first. Or what I should look for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) If you feel the vibration in the steering wheel it's coming from the front, if you feel it in the seat it's the rear (typically) If you are at the speed where the vibration happens and put the truck in neutral will the vibration go away? Edited March 18, 2014 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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