MrEviLDeD Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Yes sir. they came in yesterday. People must have thought I was retarded as I grinned ear to ear with three long steel tubes This weekend I will do my best at getting everything installed. As fate would have it. Guess yesterday driving I took a stone to the windshield on the edge. So between that and the weather dropping below -20 last night I awoke to a 500$ crack in the windshield.. At least you know when I am done, give or take a few things. She will last the remainder of my life so I will get the value back out of her Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Regarding the new fuel lines. Are there anything I need to do to them before installing them? Do the ends need to be flared? Are they as-is and I just need to systematically remove each line at a time? Just asking just in case I need some tools I do not have before I begin the project today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) Additionally would I require a bubble flare, a normal flare or a double flare? The FSM is quite vague when it comes to the fuel system really imo. There are some basic diagrams of the sender and pump. There is a basic diagram showing roughly where the lines go in terms of other frame and body parts but does not drill down into any kind of detail. Edited March 8, 2014 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Never mind on the "Flaring" question. Took the end covers off of the fuel lines and they are pre-flared! Thank you Nissan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 How much did you have to spend to get the glass replaced!?!?!?! Here in Cali you can get it done for $150 new glass installed. I'll never complain out loud about prices here again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 In Canada everything is stupid expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) That is an understatement. The three places I was quoted all wanted between 480 (glass only) through 600 (installed). For the effort I will just have it installed and save me some labour and mucking around doing the windshield correctly. I am going to give it an honest effort today replacing the fuel lines and getting them secured down. Then tomorrow hopefully get the time to drop out and replace all the front end bits I have... All that will be left after that will be the headcover gaskets(thinking a gasket sealant here maybe(Grey)), and the rear seal repair. Then just an alignment. Someone mentioned that the shaft may be scratched. Can anyone recommend to me a fix for that? At least the name of what I am looking for so I can nab it too just in case. Additionally, if I put one on even if the shaft isn't scratched would it make any difference? Would it give that extra level of protection with future leaks? Thanks for hanging in there with me, I appreciate it.. Still gets me down that I missed the deadline.. <Shakes fist at Canadian weather> Edited March 9, 2014 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailone32003 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I would make sure that the oil is not coming from the valve covers before bothering with the rear seal. The covers are known to leak. I replaced mine and no more oil leaks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 It looks like there is a bit of oil leaking from the left side valve cover. The right side looks dry. I will get a picture tomorrow from the top. I wonder if it is possible to catch a break and it be just the valve cover leaking. I know i missed the deadline. With that said I am almost there to get it re-inspected. Not having to do the rear oil seal would save me a load of extra work. More updates coming as I knock off the last few things on the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Just check all the valve cover bolts you can get too first, as I said mine were so loose I could turn them with my fingers but I didn't have any leaks, the OEM gasket was on there really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Day 16 of 10 As suggested I may start another thread dealing with the next countdown but for now I will post a little update as I have made some progress. Finally was able to get all the time together to do the right side axle, upper/lower ball joints and completely new inner/outer/adjuster for the tie-rod ends. Also replaced was the inner wheel bearing and race, as well as the outer wheel bearing and race. Was able to hand torque the wheel bearing lock ring however I do not think I loosened it off properly. Good news was that I located a proper tool to do the torquing for that lock ring. Tomorrow I hope to make the 4-day process it took me to do the right side into one and hope to get in and out tomorrow for the left steering/suspension parts. Sunday is hopefully reserved for replacing the fuel lines. I have been leaving this one for last as I feel it will take the greatest amount of fineness. If anyone has any hints of suggestions regarding the steer fuel lines I am always open. Note I have the three new steel lines from Nissan I was just hoping for some insight from someone that has replaces these lines before. With those two major things out of the way this leave just one last issue. The oil leak. Right now I am starting to think that the oil is coming maybe from the left-side valve cover. I am hoping to just tighten it as suggestion in another thread. I am also hinging on just breaking down and buying new gaskets and replacing them both. This looks like it would be quite the ordeal for the left side as I would have to remove the intake manifold to get to it meaning another gasket. Hope it is a simple fix for the oil leak. I have the rear seal and replacement gasket so if it comes to it and the rear seal is indeed also leaking at least I have the fix for that.. Just have to set aside a whole separate day for that. Current day 16 score: Valve Cover Gaskets (Left/Right) - Status: May Require Replacement Rear Oil Seal (May Leak) - Status: Purchased, May Require Replacement Accessory Belts (Alt/Water Pump) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Accessory Belts (Power Steering Pump) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Accessory Belts (Air Conditioning) - Status: Needs Replacement Fuel Lines (Fuel #1) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Fuel Lines (Fuel #2) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Fuel Lines (Fuel Return) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Left CV Axle - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Tie-Rod Ends (Left-Inner/Outer/Adjuster) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Ball Joints (Upper-Left, Lower-Left)- Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Wheel Bearings (Front-Left-Inner+Races) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Wheel Bearings (Front-Left-Outer+Races) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Right CV Axle - Status: FIXED Tie-Rod Ends (Right-Inner/Outer/Adjuster) - Status: FIXED Ball Joints (Upper-Right, Lower-Right)- Status: FIXED Wheel Bearings (Front-Right-Inner+Races) - Status: FIXED Wheel Bearings (Front-Right-Outer+Races) - Status: FIXED Daylight Running Lamps - Status: FIXED Battery Hold Down - Status: FIXED Rear Bumper (Full Bumper) - Status: FIXED Tire Condition (Front Set) - Status: FIXED As you can tell I expanded the list a little as some of the items were not listed (belts, gaskets, etc) but also wanted the list to reflect all the work that has been accomplished to-date. I am hoping to get everything taken care of at the worst case end of the following week. At this point I should be able to take her in for reinspection. I am crossing my fingers. There is a friend that offered to lover over everything before taking it in, call it kind of a pre-inspection inspection. Will not cost me too much but I guess be better than going in and failing again. I have had fun with this and I am very close to the goal line. Problem is the cost of the trust has or will come close to doubling the price I put into it narrowing the money I was going to put towards the other pathy's restoration. I haven't given up and things will come full circle. Things are very close.. I can almost see the checkered flag.. Couldn't have done it without all of your encouragement. Cheers! Edited March 15, 2014 by MrEviLDeD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Have to give you credit, you've kept at it! Can you pressure wash the motor then run it to help see where fresh oil is coming from? Stay away from all electrical ie. distributor, starter, fuse boxes etc.? Still waiting for this (overdue) baby to be born. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I too am impressed with your tenacity... Sounds like when you are done though it will be totally road worthy. Good job and we are watching your progress!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 In british columbia windshield are cheap, so not all of Canada is bad. Flat rate is 200$ through ICBC (insurance corp of bc). And even private party isnt bad. I had my 1990 300zx windshield replaced in my own driveway (tech came to my house) with new glass for 220$, which for a z32 300zx is a very reasonable price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Cheapest I was able to get here was 350 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 The best price I got on a windshield replacement down here, for the pathfinder was $250 if I went to their shop or $292 if they come to my location, that was thru Safelite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 I have noticed a couple places offering sales so I am about to scope all those out to see if I can not get a better deal. I know I personally cannot change glass I do not even want to nor want to take the risk of screwing it up. I called Speedy first, they wanted 475$ due to the windshield having an antenna or something she said. The other two names wanted about the same amount, but also wanted more for the installation. Speedy sign I passed yesterday said I could call "Scott" for a great deal So I will call Scott sometime today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 around here the best price is the guy who has a shop right next to the picknpull. Every picknpull I have been to has a shop next door that does windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 I will check into that. I am putting glass off until very last just in case something happens before getting into the inspection... At least try to narrow down the potential for something to go wrong I know the area pretty well around the two PnP's we have here to see who has the best deal. Appreciate the suggestion thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) Note to self. Leave the rotor assembly on the spindle until after you have broke the ball joints free Passenger side I left it on, couple taps of the 5lb and pop they came out.. Took it off the drivers side and now it isn't heavy enough to pop the seating with the ball joint You live, you learn Additional note. If the rear oil seal was leaking. Would that have a high leak on the engine block? If not that I believe that the actual culprit of the oil leak may just in fact be the valve cover seal. That side of the engine from very high up is all wet with oil. I haven't noticed any lowering of level in terms of oil however I am starting to think (not withstanding I haven't checked the rear oil seal closely yet) this is where the oil has been coming from. When the previous owner was adding the seal treatment it may have just been also working for the valve cover gasket. Just sucks it is on the drivers side as it means taking off the intake manifold to get at it. While I am enjoying the process I have to admit the amount of money I am throwing at her is starting to make me bang my head against the table ..... Edited March 17, 2014 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Depending on where the valve cover is leaking you may smell oil burning, if it is leaking onto the exhaust, or if it is leaking from the rear of the valve covers you may see it running down the top of the tranny. If it is wet in the area between the engine and trans under the truck, and no oil can be seen above the bottom of the engine than most likely it is the rear main seal. Have you checked any of the bolts on either valve cover yet to see if they are, or how loose they are? I know there are only a few that are accessible on the drivers side, but it may give you an idea on how the rest are, if some or all the accessible bolts are loose you pretty much can bet the in accessible one's will be too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) Here's what my valve cover looks like, this was when the trans was pulled... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/126488129/20131228_160452.jpg Edited March 18, 2014 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 rotated your pic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Rust and an oil leak, hope it gets warm up there you have work to do !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Depending on where the valve cover is leaking you may smell oil burning, if it is leaking onto the exhaust, or if it is leaking from the rear of the valve covers you may see it running down the top of the tranny. If it is wet in the area between the engine and trans under the truck, and no oil can be seen above the bottom of the engine than most likely it is the rear main seal. Have you checked any of the bolts on either valve cover yet to see if they are, or how loose they are? I know there are only a few that are accessible on the drivers side, but it may give you an idea on how the rest are, if some or all the accessible bolts are loose you pretty much can bet the in accessible one's will be too. There are times when I can smell oil burning but it doesn't seem to do it all the time. I have not gotten to tighten them. Figured since half of them were covered I would have to pull everything anyhow. I will go out there this morning and tighten the screws I can see. Clean it up and see if that is where it is infact leaking from. I am not against replacing the rear seal, just if I do not have to right now then I would prefer not committing to that time requirement. Here's what my valve cover looks like, this was when the trans was pulled... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/126488129/20131228_160452.jpg I have not been able to look at the engine with such clarity. However the oil buildup and leak does look very much similar to yours on the drivers side. Even the cross member under the engine has the same oily look to it. Base on this image, if the rear seal was leaking would there be oil on the fly-wheel etc? Meaning that there is nothing wrong with your real oil seals in that picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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