FindMe Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Recently Bought 95 pathfinder Automatic xe. It'll stop but not as good as it should. Back tires will not lock up on snow. Also jacked up rear of vehicle will wheels off ground and put in gear . Passeneger wheel will not stop spinning when brakes are pressed or pumped. Driver side rear barely stops spinning. I cant even put it back into park whille running with the pass wheel spinning I have replaced pass rear wheel cylinder, adjusted star wheel and bled brakes and had very good pressure when bleeding (fluid gushed out) and still same thing. Can only get front brakes to lock up in the snow. will not lock up on dry or wet pavement. I have no lights on dash and my abs fuse is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 So your truck has rear drum brakes? After you adjusted the star wheel, is there any drag on the drum when you turn the tire? There should be a little, even if you adjust it too much after driving a short time it should be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Did you get brake fluid on the shoes? I hear that can make them basically useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 So your truck has rear drum brakes? After you adjusted the star wheel, is there any drag on the drum when you turn the tire? There should be a little, even if you adjust it too much after driving a short time it should be good. yes I adjusts the star wheel out as far as i can and still able to get drum back on.. yes there is a little drag on the drum. I made certain i didnt get any brake fluid on pads.Also sprayed with a whole can of brake cleaner when rear of vehicle is jacked up and put into gear and brake applied the rear passenger wheel slows but never stops, the drivers rear stops but barely Could my drums be out of tolerance? would it cause it not to stop well? like I said I just bought this for a secondary vehicle/offroad toy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 how did the brake shoes look? The drums could be past their minimum life, the specs on when to replace it should be molded into the metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Have you replaced the brake pads on it? If so, what did you use? If not, someone probably bought the cheapest pads available to make it look better during an inspection. I recommend replacing the front pads and rear shoes with something of good quality. NOT the $20 pads from autozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 (edited) How does the rear cylinder look? Your seals could be busted? Edited February 11, 2014 by cvdloc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 He replaced the pass side already "I have replaced pass rear wheel cylinder," Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 I haven't replaced brake shoes because they look like they have more than plenty of pad left.. will take drum to parts store for measurement A friend just gave me a Haynes manual and it mentions a load sensing valve.. could this be a possible source of problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 How does the rear cylinder look? Your seals could be busted?Replaced pass rear wheel cylinder and made no difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I haven't replaced brake shoes because they look like they have more than plenty of pad left.. will take drum to parts store for measurement A friend just gave me a Haynes manual and it mentions a load sensing valve.. could this be a possible source of problem? Only if you have a Hardbody pickup and not a Pathfinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 And I just read your whole post. I don't think you'll get the rears to lock effectively. These vehicles have Rear-ABS so the proportioning valve is going to restrict flow to the drums when the differential's speed sensor detects a lock-up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Replaced pass rear wheel cylinder and made no difference I must have skipped over that when reading threw it. Silverton brings up a good point, maybe even communication between the two could be faulty? To me the abs shouldn't be kicking in when you have the truck jacked up. Maybe someone can duplicate this and see if the results match up to yours? Maybe it is the abs kicking in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 (edited) And I just read your whole post. I don't think you'll get the rears to lock effectively. These vehicles have Rear-ABS so the proportioning valve is going to restrict flow to the drums when the differential's speed sensor detects a lock-up. Heck I can't even get the pass rear to stop at all; it will only slow Down a little when rear end is jacked up. Got to turn engine off to put back into park. Edited February 11, 2014 by FindMe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Could some of your rubber lines be old and bulging ? Did you change the rubber line between the rear axle and the hardline? You might try bypassing the abs module just to simplify the troubleshooting process. Also when you bled the brakes did you just bleed them or did you replace ALL the fluid in system? HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Also you might need to extend the throw on your brake master cylinder. The master cylinder attaches to your brake pedal on the back up by the firewall. Loosen the nut and then turn the bar so it backs out a little bit. Just like you would adjust your clutch master cylinder. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 (edited) Could some of your rubber lines be old and bulging ? Did you change the rubber line between the rear axle and the hardline? You might try bypassing the abs module just to simplify the troubleshooting process. Also when you bled the brakes did you just bleed them or did you replace ALL the fluid in system? HTH I was going to ask if the and hydraulic unit could be the culprit? Lines look good no cracking or building. Had an old bronco ii at one time and the abs hydraulic unit was bad but I couldnt bleed the rear brakes at all; no fluid would come out I bled the pass rear first then driver rear then pass front then drivers front. Does my Mc have a bleed screw? Not sure if I'm looking in wrong place but don't see it. Edited February 11, 2014 by FindMe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Sounds like you skipped the proportioning valve? It's third in line of the five bleeders. RR, RL, PV, FR, FL. The proportioning valve is on the passenger side frame rail about where the B pillar is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Sounds like you skipped the proportioning valve? It's third in line of the five bleeders. RR, RL, PV, FR, FL. The proportioning valve is on the passenger side frame rail about where the B pillar is. so the load sensing valve and proportioning valve are two different things? My manual doesn't mention proportioning valve. When I do a Google search On proportioning valve it says load sensing proportioning valve. I will look for proportioning valve when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 the LoadSensingValve is on pickups only. Basically it increase brake pressure to the rear as there is more and more weight put in the bed of the truck and makes the suspension "sag". The proportioning valve is on Pathfinders and decreases pressure to the rear brakes when it detects a wheel locking under heavy braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 the LoadSensingValve is on pickups only. Basically it increase brake pressure to the rear as there is more and more weight put in the bed of the truck and makes the suspension "sag". The proportioning valve is on Pathfinders and decreases pressure to the rear brakes when it detects a wheel locking under heavy braking. Just got home and looked.. proportioning valve = abs hydraulic unit.. I will bleed that too in the order u said and see where I'm at and report back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I call it a proportioning valve cause it's not much of a "unit" just an annoyance in the brake fluid flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FindMe Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 OK bled according to silverton and still no difference. From prior experience had a bad "proportioning valve" and the rear brakes wouldn't bleed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 OK bled according to silverton and still no difference. From prior experience had a bad "proportioning valve" and the rear brakes wouldn't bleed. How are you bleeding? I recommend a gravity bleed as the brake pumping on/off thing has given me mixed results across several vehicles. Gravity bleed has never failed me and usually gives you a firmer pedal, only downside is that it takes much longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 ^X2 on the gravity bleed. Firmed up the rear brakes and got rid of the ABS (or whatever) light, recommended ala Simon. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now