SpecialWarr Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I'm going to be giving the truck to the mechanic and I'll let him deal with the rusty bolts of the squeaky tension rod. The bushings are still there but the bushings spin by hand and the tensioner cups are non-existent on the truck. I'm not looking forward to the bill though! Sent from my SGH-T999V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD21colorado Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 the kyb's i could push them fully down in about 5 seconds with probably about 60 to 65 pounds of force. but the new Rancho rs5000 are way better. rides firm. no more severe brake diving. and just soaks up the bump from uneven road surface. ( too much construction ) in fact i can say the vehicle now. with very new and more advance suspension set up. and more respond to the changing road surface like my 1986 Yamaha radian, (YX600) when you hit a fairly large bump the suspension collapses with lots of restriction. so i haven't bottomed out my suspension since i put the new shocks in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I replaced the tension rod bushings in my old hardbody, had plates made and welded on the front of the mount as the holes were no longer round, did not do anything for the cups that were missing, never had a problem not having the cups, I know some have commented about using a plate in the front of the mount would move the whole assembly forward but never noticed any problems when I did it to mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Definitely not normal. I have never had a clunk, that wasn't caused by something loose. Most likely a sway bar link, bad tension rod bushings, or sway bar bushings. I've replaced all the things you mentioned and I still get a pretty crazy clunk from my IFS (when going over larger bumps at lower speeds, I think anyways.)... I was thinking possibly really old/worn out upper/lower control arm bushings maybe... I don't know though I have trouble watching the suspension very closely when I am driving.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) does it clunk when turning only or going straight? Have you checked the control arm bushings at all? Just remove the tires and using a pry bar or large screwdriver try moving everything on the front suspension, pry against the control arms, swaybar, etc. there shouldn't be any play Edited January 31, 2014 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Clunking noises are not normal ! If it is coming from the tension rod than the rod needs new bushings but it's not normal. The only noise on the front of these trucks that could be considered normal is the steering stops hitting the metal when you turn the wheel full lock and go up an incline, like into a driveway, etc. Than all those need are new plastic bolt covers or a dab of grease. If anyone hears clunk noises something is not right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 does it clunk when turning only or going straight? Have you checked the control arm bushings at all? Just remove the tires and using a pry bar or large screwdriver try moving everything on the front suspension, pry against the control arms, swaybar, etc. there shouldn't be any play I know it does it (sometimes) when the wheels are turned and going over a bump, I'm not exactly sure if it does it when the wheels are straight.. When I put my ranchos on this next week I will check it out more thoroughly. But like I said I've replaced the tension rod bushings, sway bar bushings/links nothing really looks bad, although I do eventually (maybe this summer) want to replace ALL of the bushings and stuff like that to just freshen things up.. The car is like 20 years old now I think it deserves it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) If you hear a clunking noise with the wheels turned while going over a bump or into a driveway most likely it is the steering stops rubbing against the metal stoppers on the lower control arm, you truck should have plastic caps on the heads of the steering stop bolts, the older trucks (87) did not come with the plastic caps. It is possible the plastic caps wore thru or fell off, either way take a big gob of wheel bearing grease and put it on the curved metal part that the steering stop rubs on, there should be one in front and one in the rear of the lower control arm, ( 2 dr. side 2 pass side), here they are in a page from the FSM, Edited February 2, 2014 by ahardb0dy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 the kyb's i could push them fully down in about 5 seconds with probably about 60 to 65 pounds of force. but the new Rancho rs5000 are way better. rides firm. no more severe brake diving. and just soaks up the bump from uneven road surface. ( too much construction ) in fact i can say the vehicle now. with very new and more advance suspension set up. and more respond to the changing road surface like my 1986 Yamaha radian, (YX600) when you hit a fairly large bump the suspension collapses with lots of restriction. so i haven't bottomed out my suspension since i put the new shocks in. I've just recieved my front KYB shocks and yes they are scary soft, just like you said I can compress them easily..I just don't understand that. Part of me wants to go ahead and instal them anyway and the other part of me says to send them back, get the refund and start working on a set of DT3000s..why would they make the rear shocks so much more firm than the fronts? I guess it's supposed to be for comfort, and who knows when I pull the current used shocks off the front, they may be even SOFTER and more extremely weaker than the new KYBs...sometimes I'm not even sure if I need to replace the fronts..but atleast I'll know then exactly where I stand with my shocks because the current set were on there when I bought my truck 2 1/2 years ago. Who knows, maybe they'll ride just fine. Probably going to do the install this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Just slapped on my rancho 5k's and drove around the block finding all the random dirt hills and whatnot that are still left... I like them. Nice firm ride not bouncy really at all, definitely comfortable and a noticeable difference to the old kyb's that were replaced(although they were all still good).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maaakaaa Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 What do you think of the Ranchos after a few months? I'm trying to decide if I want to spend the extra for Bilsteins or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD21colorado Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 the shocks worked great for the stock height. ended up trying out the pro comps with a 3 inch lift on the vehicle. so far haven't had a shock fail yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Well I installed my rear KYB Excel G Black shocks today and so far so good, I like them at this point. They do have a firm ride but so far it's okay. I've got quite a few pics but in this post I'm only using two, as I'm going to have my own write up in separate post. you can see in the pic above the coil spacers behind the shocks, I've already ripped those out, I didn't like them. I think your fuel tank is leaking a bit there. Under that fuel tank metal protector is a drain bolt. Mine was leaking from the exact location and I waited until I was nearly empty, undid the drain bolt, cleaned it up with degreaser then put clear silicone on the bolt and screwed it back in with an extra smear of silicone around the outside of the bolt. No leaky now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Huh, that's cool, I appreciate that, I'll check it, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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