cvdloc Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Damn that's a horror story, I'm sorry to hear that. The thing with mine, it's sucking in air, but there is no leaks, I sharpie marked my fluid, hasn't budged (the leaky caliper got replaced), I would almost try a junk yard if I had that issue, but out here in Vancouver they always have a few to choose from. I ended up getting the standard MC from centric off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Damn that's a horror story, I'm sorry to hear that. The thing with mine, it's sucking in air, but there is no leaks, I sharpie marked my fluid, hasn't budged (the leaky caliper got replaced), I would almost try a junk yard if I had that issue, but out here in Vancouver they always have a few to choose from. I ended up getting the standard MC from centric off of rockauto, the one I posted was premium version, really is there a difference? It was 67$ total including shipping brand new with everything, it's just coming from NY to BC during Xmas, oh boy did I pick the best time! I am hoping that's my issue, then again I'm not too sure just replacing one thing at a time. It sucks not driving right now luckily I car pool to work so atlease I can still make money... To spend on the truck lol I'm trying not to go to a mechanic, I'm at the point where I can't trust them, been screwed over so many times just got fed up. I'm at the point where I'm comfortable tackling almost anything and or willing to learn lol plus all the money ill save, wonder what they would charge me to replace the MC when I'm doing it myself for under 70$ (Admin delete post above, I prematurely pressed post and it won't let me edit it) story of my life Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Methfinder Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 You guys want to hear horror stories? I'm full of them. Funny, because this is also related to brakes, at least part of it. So I pack up a bunch of stuff to make the drive between Rexburg Idaho and Salt lake City for the weekend, including a gas can, since I usually end up needing it driving through no mans land. It was some holiday, I forget which one. I get about an hour and a half south of Rexburg, and I start smelling something burning. My first suspicions were either oil leaking onto my manifold or my brakes, except this was strong, and it was getting worse fast. I start playing with my vents because I thought that's where it was coming from, but it didn't seem to be coming from my vents. By this time I'm somewhat close to the next exit, and my eyes are starting to water, then I peek into my rearview mirror and see smoke bellowing out from behind my back seat. The exit was about an 1/8th of a mile ahead so I start hauling ass so I can pull off and check my truck before it explodes. I'm doing about 90 entering the off ramp and try to slow down, just to find out I had zero brakes (this was my first affair with my E-Brake and down shifting). I pull off, run behind the truck and start throwing my stuff out the back as fast as I can, including the partially melted gas can. I wait a minute for the smoke to clear and start investigating. My carpet was all melted, right in the middle. My Ice scraper was melted/stuck to the floor. I thought my brakes caught on fire, but they seemed to be in good shape. I got under the truck and saw that my muffler had broken in half right where it curves over the rear axle, so I had hot exhaust gas shooting out the broken tail pipe, aimed directly at the cargo area floor. It got so hot that it burned the undercoating off the bottom of the truck and made my carpet boil. It was close enough to the hard brake line running along the axle that it melted the rubber coating off of it, and I'm guessing, boiled my brake fluid which temporarily left me without brakes. I desperatley needed to fix this before getting back on the interstate, but it was a holiday, and everthing was closed. I ended up digging through some HVAC companies scrap bin to find a piece of sheet metal I could cut and bend into an exaust tip that pointed down towards the road. I secured it with a hose clamp and continued on my way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Damn... That is just a bad case of events all at once, luckily you got out of that with both your life and truck! Hell, pathfinders just have terrible exhaust and yours broke off nearly at the worst place lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 One thing to remember when bleeding brakes start from the corner furthest from the master cyl. and work towards the master cyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 One thing to remember when bleeding brakes start from the corner furthest from the master cyl. and work towards the master cyl. Just to clarify, start from the rear, then passenger front, then drivers. I haven't done the rears in this truck yet, they haven't been an issue, but without abs this should be easy. I was going to ask about this, it's good you mentioned it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Methfinder Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 So I understand the bleeding procedure, which in my mind would be RR, LR, RF, LF, so that you are starting farthest from the master cylinder and working your way closer, but the factory manual I downloaded says LR, RR, LF, RF. Just to clarify, start from the rear, then passenger front, then drivers. I haven't done the rears in this truck yet, they haven't been an issue, but without abs this should be easy. I was going to ask about this, it's good you mentioned it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Yes, always follow the factory service manual on whatever vehicle you're working on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 should be bled, Pass rear -Dr. rear - pass, front - dr. front, sometimes you have to do it more than once. My sentra the master cylinder is leaking and my pedal feels normal, I did have a caliper leaking one time and a rear wheel cylinder another time and none of the times did the pedal feel spongy or did I lose the pedal all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 If you check courtesy parts database, there is only one MC listed for all pathfinders 88-95. They list the same part whether its discs or drums. Looks like the older multiple options have been superseded by the singular MC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 The fsm is wrong, its for a rhd vehicle. Always start with the longest line and work your way to the shortest. That is the proper way to do it. The fsm also says you have to remove the whole front suspension to pull the engine and that is just untrue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 According to Nissan FAST, the master cylinder part number is - 46010-31G00 it is listed as 11-85 to 7-90 4wd, 15/16" bore The 2wd says it has a 1" bore, both made by Tokico The master cylinder using my 94 Vin number in FAST comes up a different part number, also says it has a 1" bore, part number also includes D21 from 1-92 up to D21U up too 1-96 Z24 and VG30E = part number is 46010-92G01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 The fsm is wrong, its for a rhd vehicle. Always start with the longest line and work your way to the shortest. That is the proper way to do it. The fsm also says you have to remove the whole front suspension to pull the engine and that is just untrue. Wouldn't the drivers side be the longest? Since the brake lines run along the passenger side frame...Although I have bled it both ways and it didn't make any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 According to Nissan FAST, the master cylinder part number is - 46010-31G00 it is listed as 11-85 to 7-90 4wd, 15/16" bore The 2wd says it has a 1" bore, both made by Tokico The master cylinder using my 94 Vin number in FAST comes up a different part number, also says it has a 1" bore, part number also includes D21 from 1-92 up to D21U up too 1-96 Z24 and VG30E = part number is 46010-92G01 I think the only difference is the bore size... But I am sceptical, the Japanese do funky things... Dual spark plugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 check on rockauto for the 2 parts, they have good pictures and you should be able to tell if the two are different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 sorry if this creates a double post, tried to edit my last reply and it told me I don't have permission to do that so I copied and pasted what I tried to edit here: Some show 2 ports and most others show 3, if your PF one has the same ports as the hardbody It would probably work fine, the difference being in the bore size. the MC for the 87 D21 4x4 shows as 15/16" bore, Most MC's for the WD21 with rear disc brakes show a 1" bore and the WD21 with rear drums most parts show a 15/16" bore although a couple also show a 1" bore. Part numbers I used to compare were: 87 D21 Raybestos # MC39594 95 WD21 Raybestos # MC39978 I used Raybestos because they had the most pictures and angles showing each part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bancroftineth Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 So over the past couple days (after the long drive) the brakes have been decreasing meanin I have to pump it to get full brake pressure but after the drive to the car pool buddies house in the am I had next to no brake pressure even after pumping. So I thought, I just need to bleed them, just did that but it was strange, no difference even after 30-40 pumps, same bubbly spitting sound, like, it ooses out then spits.. Hasn't done this before, happened on both sides (only did fronts) This has me worries, so now I'm getting it towed back home (luckily got bcaa plus!) and I'm going to take a through look on the weekend, but I'm going to post a 'feeler' to see what you guys think. It has been a bit leaky, only driver side caliber, I come to a small leak daily, but hasn't been an issue. The past couple weeks thought it feels a bit soft when I first start it (pumping makes no difference) but its fine after a couple minutes of driving around, this makes me think the issue might be at the master cylinder... Anyways maybe I'm doing some wrong during bleeding so I'm going to tell you what process I go threw.. The truck is off while doing it, I open the valve, friend presses brakes, I wait for all sounds and fluid to stop, i close it, friend releases brakes, and repeat. Another thing I noticed is that the fluid barley drops, usually it falls quickly. Always kept it topped off so no air can get it. I am thinking that it's sucking in air at the calliper as the brakes are released thus causing no change... I can take the ones off my 95 pathfinder, I checked a couple months before to make sure they are the same so I'm going to swap em out. I just want to see what you guys think, how do I check my master cylinder to see if it's good? Have you guys experienced this? Truck is an 1987 nissan pickup z24 I guess if its a fluid leaking issue then please take your car to an authorized dealer before its really late,, And till then please don't drive your car,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 I guess if its a fluid leaking issue then please take your car to an authorized dealer before its really late,, And till then please don't drive your car,,, I haven't been driving it at all to clarify, it has been sitting. Traffic is bad enough in Vancouver it's not worth the risk. But I did get an early Christmas present The master came in today!! Which meaning I should be able to install this Boxing Day and be back on the road!! When I throw this one on ill take the old one and compare it to my pathfinder, side by side, I don't know what the difference is, same 3 port, rear drums so it might even be the same bore 15/16 but I don't know maybe the brake booster has different bolt patterns? Thanks for the information ahardb0dy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Looks good dude, remember to bench bleed the MC before you install it, or else you'll be bleeding it on the truck forever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 NICE ! Merry x-mas !! I need one for my Sentra now !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 Looks good dude, remember to bench bleed the MC before you install it, or else you'll be bleeding it on the truck forever. Well that wouldn't be a bad idea eh? I know the thing didn't come with a kit for that, maybe Boxing Day ill have to make a run to the parts store and buy a kit, I don't have anything that would work for a homemade set up unfortunately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 My uncle bench bled mine before putting it on and I'm pretty sure he didn't have a kit for it. According to this you can do it by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 Today I tackled the master cylinder, got a bench bleeder kit, made it go easily also helped when I was bleeding the brakes. Also I picked up a set of flare nut wrenches which made taking the brake lines off a breeze, highly recommend anyone to buy a small set (princess auto $10 5pc set). When I took the old MC off I noticed a lot of crud and small traces of fluid, thus the leak was coming from the rear seal which still made the rears lock up due to the design. I cleaned it off and installed the new MC. Then it came time to bleed. Since this time I had my mechanic friend with me, he explained the best way to bleed the brakes, took less than 10 minutes all the way around. I'm going to explain both processes Old way: open bleeder, press brake, close bleeder, release brakes, & repeat 20-50 times Better way faster time saver way: pump brakes 4-5 times, open bleeder, close bleeder, release brakes, repeat 3-6 times Afterwards took it for a test drive, brakes like new! Should have went with my gut and bought it sooner but I was still hoping it wasn't. Went for a good solid drive marked the fluid off, saw no decrease, I am going to rebleed the system tomorrow or the day after just to get the remaining air out. Then I went night mudding with the homie.. Ahh it was good to be back driving, plans are to head out tomorrow for a little day trip since homies are in town with their lifted heeps. Might throw up a photo or two, probably more. Bench bleeder, I plugged one of the fronts because it was a 2 port kit. How have you guys done it in the past? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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