ferrariowner123 Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Well, its been a while since i started looking for this dang suspension knock that i have complained about before, and it went away (yes, it actually went away) But about a week ago it came back worse than ever, so i looked at about every bushing i could find, and i took pics, i can not find much of anything, but ill let the pictures do most of the talking We'll start in the back... So here is my drivers, axle side, trailing arm bushing. Passenger side, axle side trailing arm, probably the worst of them all, but still would function to me.. BTW, Karmann, i fixed my exhaust (you can see it), it now just shoots right out the back and no longer at the cabin... Drivers, body side, trailing arm bushing, looks almost new... Passengers, axle side, upper trailing arm, all four looked as good, if not better than this one... Sway bar end links, again look great!! Same with the bushing I also took a video, should the play be that much back there? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NRuNfO7Vsg Alright, so about a day latter having not really been satisfied with my findings, i decided to poke around in the front... Sway bar bushing, that's good. I have new end links, steering rack bushings,struts (KYB), Strut mounts (OEM) and strut bearings (OEM). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 Diff bushings look brand new The only thing left is ball joints and tie rods, i did the wheel shake test, got a little bit of play at 12 and 6 on the passenger side, and i got less, but still some doing the 9 and 3, is that just steering play or do i need to replace some steering components. I figured my wheel play at 12 and 6 can be attributed to two things, my bearings are shot which i believe they are, have a noise, and i think i went through a set of pads in about 2 years, (should last longer no?) or its this ball joint, which only shows slight wear if at all... Its good on the front but not so much over here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Very perplexing, and thank you for replacing the exhaust 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 at certain idle speeds and sometimes over bumps my tailpipe bangs against my trailer hitch as it goes up and over the rear diff. also the bushing in Pic 2 doesn't look so hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Can you determine if it's front or back, K? Driver or passenger side? Knocks over bumps, turning corners, certain speeds? Give us a clue here bud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 (edited) Can you determine if it's front or back, K? Driver or passenger side? Knocks over bumps, turning corners, certain speeds? Give us a clue here bud oops, i forgot to put that key detail in, haha As far as front to back it sounds like the front, im about 80% sure, cant really pin point which side, it sounds and feels very centralized. and yes it knocks over bumps and when i accelerate. Not speed dependent. and its very hard, like a metal punching metal sound. -Kyle Edited November 27, 2013 by ferrariowner123 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 I've narrowed mine down to tie rod end inner, or the rack itself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 can u get it to knock if u rev it real quick at idle while not moving? if so possibly a motor mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 That front swaybar bushing is worn, there should not be a gap there like there is in the picture. Also, tie rods will not clunk unless they are REALLY bad, like on the verge of failure. If the wheel is loose at 9 and 3 and 6 and 12 check your wheel bearings. To check the ball joints put a prybar under the tire and try to lift up on it. I think your problem is bushings though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I kept having a clunk....realized my trailer hitch rattled over hard bumps. Lol! ...from my cell...using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NarrowPath Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I had a clunk on the top stabilizer bar tied into the strut of new OME. Turn your tire out so you can get good look. Then have someone stand on the rock slider on opposite side and rock it. You will see it move if it is the culprit. This the only way I could find it on mine. Torqued it down again no maps clunk. Need to get new ones though with ny-lock nuts. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I kept having a clunk....realized my trailer hitch rattled over hard bumps. Lol! ...from my cell...using Tapatalk Quick question without trying to thread jack. Is that normal for the Pathfinder hitch? My hitch seems to be quite loose and clunks a lot while towing. I've considered wrapping the hitch with electrical tape to take up the extra room between the hitch and the sleeve, but don't know if it would just wear out quickly and go back to clunking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAustinHenry Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 So many questions to address! Ok, As far as your 12 and 6 shake down that is the correct way to test some things but you really need to jack up the Pathy "unloaded/unladen" from the Lower Control Arms. And i prefer to just press hard in a jolting motion on the top of the tire; if there is play then narrow it down to Upper Ball Joints or Hubs/Bearings. Same concept to apply to the 9-3 shakedown. Unladen and shake side to side for Inners/Outers. As for Lower Ball joints get a pry-bar or anything else long and strong enough to apply pressure and use the same jolting pressure under the tire to feel for play. Ps INb4 long and strong joke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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