stabworthy Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 im dropping my m/t to get to my clutch and flywheel for replacement, i count 9 bolts from the diagram on fsm including the two starter bolts. what is the best way to get to the four on top, is it a matter of laying on top of the engine to get to them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 I found that loosening your motor mounts and then lowering the back end of the trasmission a little gave me enough room to get my hand up there with out a bunch of extensions. just be sure you don't put your fan through your radiator. Though I have read that most people just use a bunch of extensions and swivel. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Socket, long extensions, a swivel and 2 people. Have one person underneath snake the socket/extensions up along the top of the tranny and have the helper guide the socket onto the bolt head and hold it there. It is actually pretty easy with that approach. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 If you ever plan on a body lift. do it before the clutch. it will give you so much more room for almost everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stabworthy Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 I wish I had a body lift, but that give me a idea , a temporarily body lift unbolt the body and lift the front , and drop the rear of the trans. I just cant get them with the engine and firewall spacing. It seem easier to just pull the motor and trans out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 I just cant get them with the engine and firewall spacing. Yes, you can. I did on a stock 1995 by myself other than the proceedure I described. You don't even have to actually pull the tranny, just remove the crossmember that the T-bars tie into and slide it back far enough to do the work. I highly recommend replacing the rear main seal while you are there... If you ever plan on a body lift. do it before the clutch. it will give you so much more room for almost everything. Probably the #1 reason to install a body lift other than tire clearance. It has made so many other things easier to deal with... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 I just recently pulled the engine from my parts truck, I got to the top bolts with a swivel end ratchet wrench (plus a cup of coffee, a couple choice words, and a small blood sacrifice from an already oozing knuckle to the car gods). That was on a non bodylifted 88 with the motor and trans mounts still bolted in. I probably over complicated it though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Ah I remember this 2 clearly.... Like what precise1 said extensions and a swivel. Honestly easier to put them back in then to take them out. And LABEL too I noticed different bolt lengths and such, I was the idiot who mixed all the bolts together including the donors bolts don't do this.. I didn't raise the body or loosen the mounts and no body lift on my old 95', it unnecessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 And LABEL too I noticed different bolt lengths and such Good point, I noticed this as well! Some other NPORA member described a great system for the casual mechanic. Get a piece of cardboard of the right size, grab the gasket (whatever you are working on), label TOP or FRONT as appropriate (make sure of orientation!), lay it down and trace it with a Sharpie. Then punch holes where appropriate and put the bolts in them. BAM, no mix up! I had not thought of that before and have not needed it since, but remember that it would have saved me some madness irritation effort in the past... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I have used that method before, works very well. Organization is as important as the work you do, but we all learn the hard way but being an electrician white electrical tape is as important to me as duct tape to red green lol labelling is religious to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stabworthy Posted November 15, 2013 Author Share Posted November 15, 2013 I highly recommend replacing the rear main seal while you are there... you are referring to the seal on the rear engine sealing crankshaft like this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=122768&cc=1211960 the seal inside front trans, is it the "input shaft seal" on rock auto or "manual shaft seal" or don’t worry about unless it going to be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 (edited) you are referring to the seal on the rear engine sealing crankshaft like this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=122768&cc=1211960 the seal inside front trans, is it the "input shaft seal" on rock auto or "manual shaft seal" or don’t worry about unless it going to be a problem. Do this!.. Or you will be doing the job again if the rear main starts leaking. (I only replaced the round seal not the gaskets) I replaced my clutch. I did not do the rear main seal. less than 15,000 miles later I had a ruined clutch from a leaking rear main seal. I had to do it all over again with another new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. don't forget to replace the pilot bearing and the throw out bearing. those are all cheap parts compared with having to do the labor of pulling the transmission again. I would recommend dropping the transmission. while it can be done just sliding it back, It makes it a lot easier to replace the RMS and Pilot bearing having free access to the back of the engine. Edited November 15, 2013 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Btw, A body lift requires a lot of relocating and extending of fuel lines, ect. Would be a lot of work to do just for the easier access to the transmission only to put it back afterwords. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stabworthy Posted November 15, 2013 Author Share Posted November 15, 2013 trust me , this is not a something i want to do for a looong while. new full clutch kit , flywheel , bolts, gaskets and seals are going in. 700 miles of break in time of stop and go driving before any hooniganing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 (A little hint,) 14 mm impact wobbly 3/8 drive socket or even a 9/16 makes it so much easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stabworthy Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 yea it took a mile of extensions, swivel, 6 point 14mm socket and a pipe to break the last one free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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