Darek Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 (edited) For few days I am experiencing squeaking noise from the front underbody. Few days earlier I went to off-road and I got stuck in a very sticky mud. I don't know if it has something common with this noise. I am sure I didn't hit anything hard during off-road. Also I am not sure if my belts are properly tightened. They were replaced in July at shop, but they didn't use any tension gauge. Squeaking noise video, there is nothing to watch - only audio. Normally the sound was more quiet. I went to a wash before the video so maybe it is louder due to water on belts or something. I noticed that it was becoming louder when I was turning the steering wheel. Belts tighten video: Do you know what the reason could be? Edited October 16, 2013 by Darek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 (edited) The belt seems to be tightened down enough, and that noise isn't what a dying belt typically makes so far as I can tell. Edited October 16, 2013 by Karmann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 Does anyone has a suggestion what it could be? How could I diagnose it, the sound is only when driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Alternator bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 You could use a long extention or Metal rod, place the end on the alternator case while engine is running put the other end next to your ear and listen to see if you can hear the noise, be careful you don't hit the rod against the belt !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Or idler pulley bearing (the tensioner)? I noticed that it was becoming louder when I was turning the steering wheel. The fact that it is worse when you turn the steering indicates the power steering pump so check the fluid condition and level, make sure the pulley is tight and there is nothing underneath obstructing the movement of tie rods/wheels. One thing I like to use for checking noises like this is a mechanics stethescope which can be used both contact and non contact. A long metal bar cupped to your ear is similar but not as good. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Sounds like a seized bearing, also the belts being too right can cause noise but not what that sounded like, I would try to isolate where the noise is coming from the way I said than you can use little water on the pulley or shaft if is the alternator to see if the noise goes away, nay even be from the idler pulley on the AC belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 That sounds like a rock caught behind one of your rotors. It started after you got stuck in the mud? It only makes the noise when your rolling? Jack it up and turn each front wheel one at a time. If it's only when it's rolling it has to be one of the wheels. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 He didn't say he hears the noise when he is rolling only said when he turns the steering wheel it gets worse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 I replaced the power steering fluid and as for now it sounds like the squeaking sound is gone. The old fluid was very black. I didn't flushed the system completely as I couldn't unplug the returning hose. I just emptied reservoir, filled with fresh ATF fluid, drive a while and repeated it 3 times. During fluid replacement I noticed new sounds which I think are no good ;( The first sound appear with engine running and steering wheel locked left/right. RPMs are getting little down and engine (or something else) sound is louder. The second sound is a clunk which appear when locking steering wheel at driver side. Passenger side is quiet. There is a third sound ;( It started appearing the day I installed new springs. It sounds like something is rubbing. I thought it was the strut or CV joint rubber cover but I greased it with silicone grease and it didn't help. The sound can be heard at low speeds up to 20 mph when turning left/right. This rubbing sound was missing with both wheels lifted. Also I am sure that wheels are not rubbing anything. Maybe it is caused by the strut bearings which I didn't replaced together with new springs and struts. Or maybe it is due to spring upper seat (a rubber component between spring and strut mounting) which I could install in wrong direction - I am not sure. There are no suspicious sounds with speed above 20 mph even on a bumpy paved road. Please watch next video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lodSL6Pr_c&feature=youtu.be So once again I ask for an advice what to start with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 The RPM dip at full lock looks normal. My WD does the same thing. The steering system runs into its stops at full lock, which makes it work harder, making the pump more difficult to turn... and so the RPM falls a little. That part is normal. The noise (especially from outside of the car) sounds like something in the power steering is going out (and it makes sense that it's only at full lock, since, again, it's working harder there). It almost sounds like a noisy water faucet, like the fluid is getting past the pressure relief valve in the pump or pushing past the piston in the rack. You might try checking both components with a stethoscope to see if you can figure out which one is making the noise. Then again, my knowledge of power steering is pretty limited, so I could be talking crap here. Maybe the knock and the rumbling are coming from the same component. I'd start by checking the mounts for the steering rack, as that's something I've read about as a common problem on R50s (oil gets spilled and eats through the rubber). Apart from that, check the bolts you pulled to put the springs in. Maybe one of them worked loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 I was at the mechanic an he said that the rubbing sound is caused by bad strut bearing. I suppose the bearing could went bad after installing new struts and springs. Maybe it was to weak. Anyway I am going to replace it. As for the clunk sound with wheel locked right it doesn't appear any more. The mechanic diagnosed also that right passenger wheel bearing is to loose. There is a play on the wheel. He told me that I need a new bearing. I was repacking bearings 3 months ago and maybe I tightened it too much or too low. Is there any chance that the bearing is still good and it only need to be re-tightened? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 If the bearings still spin smooth, just tighten it til there is no play. Dont go past that though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Exactly. The mechanic diagnosed also that right passenger wheel bearing is to loose. There is a play on the wheel. He told me that I need a new bearing. I was repacking bearings 3 months ago and maybe I tightened it too much or too low. Is there any chance that the bearing is still good and it only need to be re-tightened? If it feels smooth, you should be able to just repack with high temp wheel bearing grease, and preload properly. To tight, they will burn up and too loose they will brinell. New bearings will settle and wear in, so I always re-check them after some driving (50-100 miles). One trick is to feel the wheel hub after driving for a bit without heavy braking. If the hub is warm the bearings are too tight or worn and if the rim is warm, the brakes are dragging and might need slide pins cleaned and to be bled. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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