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15 town short distance runs on a good day but 20 cruising on the highway. Here is the trick...

 

Swap out the permanent front drive flanges for manual locking hubs. I did it with Mile Markers for under $100. You lose the 'on the fly' 4x4 option when they aren't locked in, but then you don't need that all year, do you?

Also, change the fluid in your drive train with a good synthetic and make sure your tires are properly inflated and your brakes don't drag. You should be able to get 20mpg on the highway; I do in my 1999.0 with 175k on it.

 

B

 

P.S. Tune up, with air filter might help, I don't know the maintenence you do. :shrug:

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I also get 16-17 MPG with my 2WD VQ35DE.

 

+1 on synthetic transmission fluid, transfer case and differentials.

 

Engine air filter doesn't matter much in the way of MPG, an SAE study found that on modern fuel injected vehicles the air filter has to be *extremely* clogged before MPG is affected even a small amount. But nonetheless, it's a good idea to replace if it looks extremely dirty or the seal is not good anymore (which IMO is the most important part).

 

Spark plugs are due at 105k intervals, use the specified NGK spark plugs only.

 

Clean MAF and throttle body too. Maybe change the fuel filter if it's more than a few years old too.

 

Driving style matters much more than all of the above, I think. If I keep it under 2k RPM I can squeeze 18MPG out of 17 gallons or so.

Edited by Towncivilian
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I've done the maf, fuel filter, throttle body lately. I might consider the manual hubs, but I sure like the on the fly option even if I only use it in the winter. I really surprised the mileage shouldn't be better on a good conditon truck. My friend has a dakota 4x4 V8 and gets better mileage.

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Last time I checked it was around 16 mpg (15.8 at the time to be exact). I have since changed my knobby 31" Duratracs for radial street tires. Maybe I should check what I'm getting now?

 

 

I might consider the manual hubs, but I sure like the on the fly option even if I only use it in the winter.

 

You can simply lock in the hubs in the bad weather months you guys have up there.

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Are the oem hubs just locked in all the time then? I assumed they were automatic...trying to understand exactly how they work. I checked out mile markers website but didn't see them for r50. Any other decent ones I should look at too?

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Are the oem hubs just locked in all the time then?

 

Yes. They are always "locked". With the manual hubs (Mile Marker or Warn) you can physically turn a dial to disengage the CV axles from rotating while you are in 4x2. This results in less mechanical resistance of turning the front differential when you do not need the front wheels (4x4) to gain traction and increase your fuel mileage.

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16mpg is about average...or in metric I get about 400km/tank city and 500 hwy. Less Right Foot means better fuel economy.

I didn't buy a 4x4 because it has outstanding fuel consumption. If that was my goal I would have bought a VW turbo diesel, or god help me a prius. This type of vehicle, while reliable,practical,comfortable, affordable, really makes a lousy single occupant city daily driver. It is a vehicle designed to be used where four wheel drive is necessary to access the terrain. Lets face it most of us spend most of our time pounding pavement with our trucks. Truthfully a "soft roader" would have been a better purchase for most of us if 4x4 is an option we only need for safety a few times a year.

The thing is this truck does every thing I ask of it reasonably well. If crapy fuel consumption is the cost, I'm gonna take my lumps and ride my bike to work more often.

so ends my rant.

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Yes. They are always "locked". With the manual hubs (Mile Marker or Warn) you can physically turn a dial to disengage the CV axles from rotating while you are in 4x2. This results in less mechanical resistance of turning the front differential when you do not need the front wheels (4x4) to gain traction and increase your fuel mileage.  

Thanks alot. Definetly going to look into some manual hubs.

 

Sent from my BlackBerry Runtime for Android Apps using Tapatalk 2

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15 town short distance runs on a good day but 20 cruising on the highway. Here is the trick...

 

Swap out the permanent front drive flanges for manual locking hubs. I did it with Mile Markers for under $100. You lose the 'on the fly' 4x4 option when they aren't locked in, but then you don't need that all year, do you?

Also, change the fluid in your drive train with a good synthetic and make sure your tires are properly inflated and your brakes don't drag. You should be able to get 20mpg on the highway; I do in my 1999.0 with 175k on it.

 

B

 

P.S. Tune up, with air filter might help, I don't know the maintenence you do. :shrug:

I found mile markers part #435 on their website I can get shipped for 160$. That's the best deal I've found. Mind me asking where you found yours? Thanks

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I know I'm getting ahead of myself here but I was wondering if you can use the original flange bolts already there to install the manual hub. If so, it seems like it would be a pretty quick job. thanks for all the help.

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Manual hubs and new exhaust made the biggest difference for me...and at the risk of getting flamed, I swear by Tufoil additive, makes my VG33 run so smooth and quiet I sometimes think it shut off when idling. Maybe a minor mileage benefit but definitely makes the engine smoother, quieter and a few degrees cooler too.

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15 town short distance runs on a good day but 20 cruising on the highway. Here is the trick...

 

Swap out the permanent front drive flanges for manual locking hubs. I did it with Mile Markers for under $100. You lose the 'on the fly' 4x4 option when they aren't locked in, but then you don't need that all year, do you?

Also, change the fluid in your drive train with a good synthetic and make sure your tires are properly inflated and your brakes don't drag. You should be able to get 20mpg on the highway; I do in my 1999.0 with 175k on it.

 

B

 

P.S. Tune up, with air filter might help, I don't know the maintenence you do. :shrug:

Weird. I got an email from Mile Marker saying they don't make a hub for my Pathfinder. Are they mistaken? Anyone else use Mile Markers, Part #

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I know I'm getting ahead of myself here but I was wondering if you can use the original flange bolts already there to install the manual hub. If so, it seems like it would be a pretty quick job. thanks for all the help.

 

I went with the Warn hubs. They came with longer bolts but, I reused the factory flange bolts. I believe a couple of other members here have done the same.

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I found mile markers part #435 on their website I can get shipped for 160$. That's the best deal I've found. Mind me asking where you found yours? Thanks

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Mile-Marker-Supreme-Manual-Hub.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=6075&t_pn=MIL435

 

Sorry, I didn't see your Toronto location before, that might change things.

 

I know I'm getting ahead of myself here but I was wondering if you can use the original flange bolts already there to install the manual hub. If so, it seems like it would be a pretty quick job. thanks for all the help.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25855-locking-hub-install-with-pictures/?p=561047

 

Weird. I got an email from Mile Marker saying they don't make a hub for my Pathfinder. Are they mistaken? Anyone else use Mile Markers, Part #

I'm pretty sure they are the same as the WD21, but I'm trying to verify that. I recall almost mounting a WD21 autohub on an R50 and and couldn't, only because of crenellation s on the spindle; everything else is the same.

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/30359-mile-marker-hubs/?p=576446

 

Ahh, here we go...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25662-manual-hubyearspline-information/?hl=%2Bmile+%2Bmarker

 

B

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/>/> I have since changed my knobby 31" Duratracs for radial street tires.

Frankly sir, I am appalled at this decision!

 

Jk, lol

 

-Kyle

 

EDIT: figured I contribute, I get 13.5-14.5 mpg alternating every other tank between the two.. Manual 5spd, no lift, and the same tires that this traiter quoted above me had.

Edited by ferrariowner123
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Anyone know what the bolt circle and axle OD is on my path? Got an email from mile marker asking this to confirm fitment for my path. I take your guys' word for it that they fit, but don't understand why the manufacturer is so clueless. Is the bolt circle and axle OD on my 2000 the same as 90-96 Paths? Thanks for the help.

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In the last link I posted for you...

 

Mile Marker Supreme Chrome 90-01 Pathfinder: PN-435, BS-6x3.260", 28 spline/1.143" OD

 

I checked the drive flanges I took off of our 1999.0 R50 and the bolt pattern seems to be 6x83mm (3.264"). The spline is 1.16" wide.

They were sitting in a box in the garage that says...

 

Mile Marker

P/N 435
Premium Locking Hubs

90-96 Nissan

 

LOL They will fit! Do you need a picture of the box and them mounted on our R50?

 

Tell Mile Marker to shut up, send the damn hubs and update their fitment chart!

 

B

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Hi, I'm sorry to interrupt these discussions. What is the ratio to convert MPG & KM/L? There are 2 results from Google, some say 3.x liters per gallon but others say 4.x liters. Here in Taiwan we don't use gallon or miles. My 01 QX4 runs about 8KM/L highway and 5KM/L city. What might be the number of MPG? Thank you very much.

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/>

So I just installed my e-fan yesterday, new tank of gas and a oil change. Well see what the MPGs look like with 32" MT tires, manual hubs, Magnaflow exhaust and e-fan this week. Usually do about 200mi per week, 150 of those freeway.

Looks like 18mpg, I'll take it. Without the MTs I'd be at 20. Definitely has more low end power too now. Keep thinking it has stalled, without the mechanical fan it is super quiet.

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