theexbrit Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 After being stuck in the high Sierras with a dead battery & no one to jump start me until a Ranger arrived, I decided to install a dual battery set up. I decided on the T-max system as the price was pretty good (about $100) & it got some good reviews. I'd heard that you can squeeze 2 batteries into the spot where the current battery sits if you turn them sideways. That suited me as didn't want to run a cable all the way to the rear of the vehicle so that I could put the second battery there somewhere. So, I pulled the main battery out & started measuring for a new tray. Then I noticed that by my measurements the batteries would only overhang the end of the battery mount area by a couple of inches, so I figured I don't even need a battery tray. I was looking at an Optima as my second battery but after reading lots of reviews (& because of battery size) I decided to get a Sears DieHard Platinum which I read is a re-branded Odyssy battery which are supposed to be excellent. Anyway, I bought some zinc battery terminals (supposedly 3x conductivity compared with OEM) & lowered the batteries into place. They fit surprisingly tightly & don't move at all. Next came all the wiring, the T-Max solenoid is very easy to wire up it turned out to be the monitor/controller that was a pain in the rectum to wire. The kit comes with enough wire to reach comfortably from the passenger side of the dash out to the batteries on an R50. I had to remove the glove box to run the wires behind the dash & remove the passenger side kick panel & drill a hole through the metal between the door hinges in order to get the wires out of the cabin into the engine bay. There is already a small hole there but my 2 meter radio power wires were already using it. I took the wires from the hole between the hinges up under the fender & to the place where I'd located the solenoid. The solenoid is very sturdy & well made, my only beef is that all the connections are exposed & I had a few spitzen sparken moments when I was connecting things & accidentally touched a terminal with a wrench or something. Of course I then figured out "maybe I should disconnect the wires from the batteries, wire up the solenoid, then reconnect the battery ends". :laugh: This worked well but I still coated the solenoid terminals with that liquid rubber stuff that you dip tool handles into, all the terminals are now nicely covered & insulated. I figure it's going to be a long time before I touch the wires & terminals again & if I need to then I'll just cut off the rubber (after disconnecting the batteries first this time!). Ok, so after I connected all the wires from the monitor/controller I cut the appropriate lengths of 6 gauge wire to run from the batteries to the solenoid. All wire, connectors, fuses, etc, are supplied with the kit, they even give you a couple of battery terminals that I didn't use. I ran a new ground from the auxiliary battery to a good ground bolt that holds the lower hose to the block, reconnected my 2 meter radio, fridge/freezer power supply, etc, to the auxiliary battery (leaving enough available connections for a winch in the future) & fired her up! The monitor/controller is great, it constantly gives you the charging rate of the main battery & indicates that the batteries are "linked" for charging..... & at the press of a button gives you the charge rate & condition of both batteries......... It also has a button that manually links the batteries if you need extra electrical power, this feature automatically switches off after 30 minutes but you can set it again if needed. So far everything is working great. I cut a rubber mat to place over the top of the batteries & protect the terminals & temporarily rigged a tie down strap to hold the batteries in place, although as I said, they are pretty snug already. I'm going to make a metal tie down strap next weekend, but here's the finished product...... Sorry this write up is a little rushed but it's Friday night & my movie plus booze is crying out for it's pappa 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) You have done well there.Can I put some constructive critisim across please? I would make some serious straps to hold those batteries inplace; as snug as they seem now, immagine how they will be with some serious "Offroad Highway driving" please. Believe me they will try to lift off ;-) All I would change is the two mounting bolts for the solenoid so they face the other way. That'll stop the threads locking horns with the main studs should something go astray. Keep up the good work. Edited August 10, 2013 by kiwipete 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 You have done well there. Can I put some constructive critisim across please? I would make some serious straps to hold those batteries inplace; as snug as they seem now, immagine how they will be with some serious "Offroad Highway driving" please. Believe me they will try to lift off ;-) All I would change is the two mounting bolts for the solenoid so they face the other way. That'll stop the threads locking horns with the main studs should something go astray. Keep up the good work. X2 Fab or buy some good metal batt hold downs. I've had batteries hit the hood before. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 X2 Fab or buy some good metal batt hold downs. I've had batteries hit the hood before. This Also, good choice on the battery. Since Johnson Controls acquired Optima, the quality has really went downhill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Nice system. I plan on putting an isolator, but for the extra few bucks it would be nice to have the option of dual batteries at your fingertips in the cab. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 I am interested in doing this on my hardbody build and I like they way you took on this! I was just going to throw both battery's behind my seat and on a couple switches (nothing special) so I can run both, or either one. But this is fancy and I like it, this is an r50 I'm not mistaken? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Nice! Since I like to run an inverter at the campsite for power (stolen along with my gel cell in my D21) this makes great sense. I like the idea that both will fit, hopefully this works on a WD21 too. My list of "need to do's" is getting long but this is definitely on the list. Thanks for the write up and pics! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 I have not measured but I believe this will work on a wd21 as well. You can always use two different sized batteries if you have to but I think what the OP used should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyourface1650 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) What is the Group size on the batteries? two group 24s? I've got an Group 25 in mine IIRC...it hangs over about 1/2 inch on the side... Edited August 10, 2013 by Inyourface1650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 I have not measured but I believe this will work on a wd21 as well. You can always use two different sized batteries if you have to but I think what the OP used should work. Not wanting to thread jack your post, I thought I would place a link to my dual battery install on my WD21 so others can get another prospective on what can be done. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22195-kiwipetes-td27/page-7 Please direct comments on my install to my page and not clutter this one 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Very nice TXB, exactly what I plan to set up in my Pathy but had not done the homework yet, so this helps a lot. I did locate a 55Ah 12 AGM battery with fairly small dimensions (that I can't seem to find now) that I planned to use in conjunction to my Optima Yellow for winching/power inverter use, and yes, and isolator circuit is required AFAIC, and I don't want a battery in the back, especially with the associated cost/power loss. A must for any expedition rig (as I stated elsewhere). I'll find that battery info again and post it ... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 (edited) You have done well there. Can I put some constructive critisim across please? I would make some serious straps to hold those batteries inplace; as snug as they seem now, immagine how they will be with some serious "Offroad Highway driving" please. Believe me they will try to lift off ;-) All I would change is the two mounting bolts for the solenoid so they face the other way. That'll stop the threads locking horns with the main studs should something go astray. Keep up the good work. I hear ya! I just needed them secured for this weekend as I didn't have time to fab a metal hold down, that's coming next week. Just as an addendum to this, after I got back from trip the batteries were still in place but the tie down I used had indeed come lose. Great advice about the solenoid bolts, I never even thought about doing that!! I am interested in doing this on my hardbody build and I like they way you took on this! I was just going to throw both battery's behind my seat and on a couple switches (nothing special) so I can run both, or either one. But this is fancy and I like it, this is an r50 I'm not mistaken? Yes, it's an R50, 1996 SE. What is the Group size on the batteries? two group 24s? I've got an Group 25 in mine IIRC...it hangs over about 1/2 inch on the side... That's a good question, I just went by the measurements & CCA! According to the receipt the Die Hard is a group 35, so I'm guessing the Bosch is too. Not wanting to thread jack your post, I thought I would place a link to my dual battery install on my WD21 so others can get another prospective on what can be done. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22195-kiwipetes-td27/page-7 Please direct comments on my install to my page and not clutter this one No problem mate, more perspectives are always good in these mods. Edited August 11, 2013 by theexbrit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Very nice TXB, exactly what I plan to set up in my Pathy but had not done the homework yet, so this helps a lot. I did locate a 55Ah 12 AGM battery with fairly small dimensions (that I can't seem to find now) that I planned to use in conjunction to my Optima Yellow for winching/power inverter use, and yes, and isolator circuit is required AFAIC, and I don't want a battery in the back, especially with the associated cost/power loss. A must for any expedition rig (as I stated elsewhere). I'll find that battery info again and post it ... B OOps, the battery was smaller than I thought, it is only 35Ah, but the dimensions are small as well (roughly 7.5x5x7.5", 275 CCA. I'm not sure it would start a pathy well, but it could be used for everything else) http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-35ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery-group-u1.html?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=CPC&gclid=CPLjrvH9jbQCFWGnPAoduHcAhQ B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 Where did you go through the firewall to the cabin??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 (edited) It's virtually impossible to find somewhere to run the wires through the firewall on the passenger side unless you want to remove a ton of heater/AC junk. For the Rig Runner, removed the glove box & inner panel, ran the wires over to the passenger side plastic kick panel. I had to drill a small hole through the inner fender of the passenger side & put a rubber grommet there to stop the wires from chaffing. It's a pain in the arse to drill from the outside as the door has to be open & there's only a small gap. I think I drilled from the inside, there's a white plastic plug/connector that you have to remove, then drill through the metal that this was connected to. There's a gap between that metal plate & the inner fender so that threading the wires through is another pain in the arse. I wrapped the wires together & carefully pushed them through from the inside until I could grab them with a pair of long nosed pliers. Then up over the plastic wheel arch insert through pre existing holes to the batteries. I'll try to post some photos for you. Edited November 11, 2013 by theexbrit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Here's a couple of pics explaining what I'm talking about........ You have to route the wires down from the passenger side of the engine bay thru the hole in the inner fender under the windshield wiper motor, then down to the door pillar running the wires on top of the plastic fender insert where the washer lines go & thru the small hole you drilled in the bottom of the door pillar. Under the grey plastic kick panel you can see here to the left, is a raised metal box that effectively make it so that you end up drilling thru 2 sheets of metal that have a gap between them...... Here's another, closer view. ..... You then run the wires up behind the glove box to wherever you want them. I did the same for the Rig Runner wires, you can just see them above the Tmax wires. There;s an existing hole here so no drilling required. Don't forget to use rubber grommets in the holes to stop wire chaffing & causing a short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Thanks! That helps. I was looking behind the glovebox thinking "How the heck???" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 Too much heater junk there! If you find a better way let me know, although it seems to work fine so far. Once the door is closed the wires are pretty well protected. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Too much heater junk there! If you find a better way let me know, although it seems to work fine so far. Once the door is closed the wires are pretty well protected. Just pull that useless heater, it's not doing you any favors. Once you get rid of it there's so much more space! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Just pull that useless heater, it's not doing you any favors. Once you get rid of it there's so much more space! But then on a 50* morning or night, my kids would hate me. hahah! I do have an external heater that I bought for my baja bug...I'll find a use for it someday. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Lol, I pulled mine out of my CJ to having the heater core cleaned and never put it back. When you're wheeling with three jackets on at night and it's 40 degrees, you don't get tired easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 Lol, I pulled mine out of my CJ to having the heater core cleaned and never put it back. When you're wheeling with three jackets on at night and it's 40 degrees, you don't get tired easy! See, there's always an upside to everything!! :laugh: :laugh: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now