Rebelord Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Today, I had to run to the store to get a bag of ice. As I'm going down the street by the house, doing 30mph a cross traffic SUV ran a stop sign. On the horn, on the brakes. When on the brakes, I mean ON the brakes. Tools and everything in the back slid forward against the seats. Stuff went flying and I thought I was going to hit the stupid person. During this time, I thought: Where the F is my ABS? It didnt kick in, at all. Truck is full laden, 1/2 tank, 300lbs of tools in the back hatch plus a Craftman 300 piece toolbox in the back seat drivers side. Which did fly and hit the back of the seat. My front pads are close to 70%+ left, rotors are very good condition. Pads are OEM type, have Nissan stamp on the. No clue how long they have been on either. Rears, really have no clue. I havent popped off the drums in over 2yrs. Did the tires at any point lock up? No. Which WAS nice, a controlled stop. However I feel the brakes should have been a little better. I have not bleed my brakes since I have gotten the truck. (2yrs). Fluid is nice clear clean fluid up top. But thats just there, who knows what it looks like in the lines. I will bleed the brakes tomorrow, plus pull the drums. For those that have had to use the brakes hard, have you noticed your ABS? Does it kick in easy for you or are yours the same, not kicking in? Any suggestions? I feel the braking power is severely lacking right now. Stunt Driver Rebelord 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) Mine definitely works off road, I've come down some loose dirt/gravel areas & I've felt the pedal pumping. Never tried it on asphalt though. The brakes have never been great on the R50, but the ABS should work. Here's an article that might help.... http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/2265091 Edited July 11, 2013 by theexbrit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Yes, ABS works during hard stops for me. Fluid is fresh (~3 or 4 months), rear drums recently cleaned, lubed, and adjusted along with parking brake and brake pedal free play. Front hardware needs some cleaning and lubing (awful squeaking lately) but is otherwise fine. Nice pedal feel after fresh fluid and everything adjusted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 I was thinking maybe the speed sensors are full of dirt/junk. But its just magnets basically. Work whether dirty or not. Plus there a pretty simple 2 wire system. Either work or no work. IDK, I'm going to dig in the FSM some more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Your ABS light should turn on for a second or two when you turn the ignition to "ON". You should also hear it self-testing when you first reach 5 mph going either forward or reverse. Is this the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Light works. As for hearing a self test. Never heard it, nor do I hear it currently. However my tires are pretty loud to hear much over them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 When i got in my fender bender a few months ago, it was wet asphalt, and i'm sure my duratracs didn't help. But i locked up my brakes and that's why i slide into them. If my ABS had worked, probably would have stopped in time. But my brake fluid has never been changed (been close to 4 years now, oopsy) Pads were changed ~20,000 miles or so ago, and the only reason i took my rear drums off was to paint them black. Bleeding everything is in order for me, clutch and brakes. Check my pads (Might do the Stop tech upgrade) and adjust my rears. But im with rebelord, i cant hear anything checking. I've also had a bad wheel wobble since i put my Pro-comp wheels and Goodyear tires, still have yet to track down if that's just crap wheels or my rotors are warped. But its only under braking i feel a pulsing from the brake pedel. Very slow, not like a rapid ABS pulse. So i dont know whats going on with my car, but a major inspection is in order. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) When I was running 32x11.50R15 MTRs, stock pads and rotors, I could not get the ABS to engage. I later switched to Akebono pads and Powerstop rotors, and voila! Instant ABS again. Stock parts don't stop big tires mounted to a heavy rig very well. I would first start by getting better brake pads. EBC or Akebono. Edited July 11, 2013 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Ill pull my fronts off today to check what brand they are. If am going to redo my brakes. Was looking at the PowerStop kit. Front slotted/dimpled rotors and their truck Xtreme pads. This kit: PowerStop HD Brake Kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Fronts are Wagner 90% left on pads, Rotor damn near look new. Couldnt read part number for the wagners on the fronts. Rears are OEM Nissan shoes. Drums internally again, look new. So pads and rotors are 4.0. But I still need to bleed the brakes. I'll check back once that is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 /> When I was running 32x11.50R15 MTRs, stock pads and rotors, I could not get the ABS to engage. I later switched to Akebono pads and Powerstop rotors, and voila! Instant ABS again. Stock parts don't stop big tires mounted to a heavy rig very well. I would first start by getting better brake pads. EBC or Akebono. Did you notice it right away? Like just stamp on the brakes and it should kick in? And what is your opinion on the rotors that go over the hub? I've seen those on ebay and I'm not convinced. I need to over haul my brakes. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Abs should kick in under hard braking where the tires start to lock up. The abs then pulses to keep them from just slidiy Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4 Beta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 I just turned the rotors and drums, and put on Hawk Gold Ceramic front pads (Like them better than EBC, have had both) and standard Wagner rear pads. The ABS definitely works, I even felt it today coming down a loose dirt hill. (That and stopping for a moose ) It seems to engage at 75% pedal pressure and above, especially in rain, or anything slick. It's saved my bacon countless times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Did you notice it right away? Like just stamp on the brakes and it should kick in? And what is your opinion on the rotors that go over the hub? I've seen those on ebay and I'm not convinced. I need to over haul my brakes. -Kyle Yes. As soon as the pads have bedded in (less than a dozen miles), if you mash the brake pedal, ABS kicks in right away - on asphalt even. This means I've either got really crappy tires or really good brakes. Given that I had the same tires before I replaced the pads with which I couldn't engage ABS, and after I replaced the pads, I could, I'm going to say it's the pads that make the most difference. I am not aware that there are brake rotors for the Pathfinder that are designed to being placed over the hub. I'm not sure rotor-over-hub brakes would be good for an R50 used for off-road purposes anyway, since the heat transfer, bolt shear forces, etc. might be screwed up with a non-factory brake design. Besides, how many times do you need to remove the rotor anyway? I've gotten away with pad replacement only for my last 3 brake jobs (ie. almost 100K miles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Agree on rotor mileage. Mine look factory. But wear is minimal and face looks perfect Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4 Beta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Fronts are Wagner 90% left on pads, Rotor damn near look new. Couldnt read part number for the wagners on the fronts. Rears are OEM Nissan shoes. Drums internally again, look new. So pads and rotors are 4.0. But I still need to bleed the brakes. I'll check back once that is done. If bleeding the brakes doesn't help, replace the pads with some high-quality ones and report back. Almost all of the braking force is done by the front brakes, so you don't need to replace the rear shoes. (I don't think there are high=performance replacements anyway.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Unfortunately i probably wont be able to bleed them till next week. We have the remains of a tropical storm raining us out right now Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4 Beta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 XPLORx4, which Akebono pads do you have specifically? I remember you mentioned a while back that you had EBC reds but I couldn't find them for my model year. I ended up with EBC greem 7000 series pads which improved the braking over whatever it had before but with the heavy 32s I'm still not comfortable with these brakes in emergency situations. I was lazy and didn't resurface the rotors so that could also explain why they haven't been a huge jump from stock. Although the EBCs came with a sandpaper like layer to bed the rotors in which wears off after a couple hundred miles. Anyway, I have stainless steel lines on order to improve the pedal feel, I'll probably also replace the booster check valve just to make sure the stock system is working as efficiently as possible. Next I'm looking for brake pads with a strong initial bite and trying to decide between Hawk LTS or Akebonos. Rotors wise I'm planning to get the Duralast Gold blanks from Autozone with a lifetime warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Also, anyone know if there's a bolt-on upgrade available for the Pathys such as Titan's calipers, discs etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) XPLORx4, which Akebono pads do you have specifically? I have these. Edited July 15, 2013 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 I was thinking maybe the speed sensors are full of dirt/junk. But its just magnets basically. Work whether dirty or not. Plus there a pretty simple 2 wire system. Either work or no work. IDK, I'm going to dig in the FSM some more. If the speed sensors were not working you would get an ABS light on constantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 If the speed sensors were not working you would get an ABS light on constantly. .. eh' hem .. could be my issue? I have not explored this as an issue but, my ABS light has been on since my second wheeling trip. Go on ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 .. eh' hem .. could be my issue? I have not explored this as an issue but, my ABS light has been on since my second wheeling trip. Go on ... Very well! Most common problem I see is the sensor on the end of them getting accidentaly cracked when taking wheels or caliper while doing a brake job on and off. So take a little extra precaution when doing that. Very hard "curb checks" where you damage more than just the tire/wheel such as the hub, control arms and so forth can also do this. Also... Dont yank on the wires hard! Dont overtighten the bolts at the sensor as that may crack the housings as well. (Also, and old Japanese but told me to not get them wet, or feed them after midnight.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Also, anyone know if there's a bolt-on upgrade available for the Pathys such as Titan's calipers, discs etc? Not so much a bolt on... but you get the idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Brembo-Red-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Covers-Front-Rear-Set-Universal-Car-Truck-3D-/321145311835?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac5c0925b&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Not so much a bolt on... but you get the idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Brembo-Red-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Covers-Front-Rear-Set-Universal-Car-Truck-3D-/321145311835?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac5c0925b&vxp=mtr 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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