enkrypt3d Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I'm having the same issue but it just dies for no reason. Did this to me twice today.... the 2nd time it was in the middle of traffic and I popped the hood to check for loose battery cables as there was no juice lighting up the dash lights.... I'm guessing it has something to do with that mess of wires near my battery. It also does it if I take a hard turn or if I hit a big bump... ugh I wiggled the rat nest of wires behind the battery and it started back up..... wth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 http://www.enkrypted.com/20130405_151250.jpg I found out what is causing the electrical cutting out - see the green tab on the right... what is it? as soon as I touch it, the entire truck dies... no juice to anything...... how can i possibly fix it? when i hit any big bumps the truck dies... I have no idea what that is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Well i replaced the temp sensors and that didnt help....going to try the O2 next...never replaced that yet and had 150k miles on it. If that doesnt do it ill do the chts when i get around to getting the tstat replace. I also bought a timing light so i will check that first and if its not off ill keep buying the above parts (should be 15 degrees right?). If you replaced both temp sensors, you replaced the "CHTS." On the TBI models it was the CHTS because it actually measured cylinder head temperature and not the actual coolant temperature. The MPFI trucks do, hence the ECU Coolant Temperature Sensot name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 If you replaced both temp sensors, you replaced the "CHTS." On the TBI models it was the CHTS because it actually measured cylinder head temperature and not the actual coolant temperature. The MPFI trucks do, hence the ECU Coolant Temperature Sensot name. oh so these arent like a vg30 in a z31 and have a chts down by the cam gear on the driver side? If not then i guess its a idle air control, 02 ortiming then idk what else it could be rest it all new now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 http://www.enkrypted.com/20130405_151250.jpg I found out what is causing the electrical cutting out - see the green tab on the right... what is it? as soon as I touch it, the entire truck dies... no juice to anything...... how can i possibly fix it? when i hit any big bumps the truck dies... I have no idea what that is... Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 The green thing on the right looks like a plug for a fuse link or for accessories. Try pulling that out, make sure the wires are tight, and also make sure it's not all corroded inside. Put a little dielectric in before we put it back together to keep the corrosion off. Also check the battery terminal itself. It could be that you're grabbing the plug and the battery terminal is shifting around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 No the terminal is very tight - anytime I touch the wires coming out of the green thing or the black thing next to it the truck dies.... I have no idea why its setup this way I just want to get it fixed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I would see if you can get 2 new fuseable links like the ones your having issues with from the dealer or parts truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I made the mistake of removing that green wire coming out of that mess or harnesses last night and the truck wouldn't start. So I think its some sort of jerry rigged kill switch as a part of some old ass alarm system. Can anyone give me part numbers to replace these wiring harnesses with OEM parts? I want to rip all this crap out and clean it up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Luckily I was able to stick that green wire back in and the truck starts... I just want to find the proper wiring harness for this thing and be done with this...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I have that green thing on mine too its a fuseable link i think you should be able to find one at the dealer in the catalog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Here is the part info for the three fusible links on your vehicle. WD21 VG30E MANUFACTURING DATES: 07/92-10/95 24021-V5003 LINK, FUSIBLE $5.68 24022-01G00 LINK, FUSIBLE $7.13 24022-84M60 LINK, FUSIBLE $10.02 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Here is the part info for the three fusible links on your vehicle. WD21 VG30E MANUFACTURING DATES: 07/92-10/95 24021-V5003 LINK, FUSIBLE $5.68 24022-01G00 LINK, FUSIBLE $7.13 24022-84M60 LINK, FUSIBLE $10.02 Omg thank you! Can someone please post a picture of what the wiring looks like around the battery? I'm dropping it off at the shop tonight as I can't be stranded in the middle of the street during my commute... thanks again Alkorahil!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Went out and took a look at mine... Here's the plug. Ignore the two wires right next to the battery post (orange and green), they're not stock. The harness from the green plug goes behind the battery and includes this fuse link. I'm not sure where the other two fuse links are, or if the wires coming off the green plug are fuse links too. Looking at your pic again, it looks like someone's cut open the wiring harness and done strange and terrible things to it involving crimp connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Yes I did see that brown loop but there.... I think it has to do with a few things...... #1, some ghetto wiring that was done for the push button start (who needs this in a pathy?) and the loose wires in your first pic... I dropped it off at the dealer and hopefully they can tear out all that custom crap and replace the old wies.. I thought that bundle of wires in your first pic was not OEM but apparently it is ...... what is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 The brown 3 wire is to the main power harness, ECU, etc The green and black is to the starter, In the second picture, the brown single loop is to the headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 What is that wiring harness called and what do I need to replace it? Starter wiring harness? Obviously the green wire thats loose on mine must be the custom pushbutton start .....so I'd have to replace a few things....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 so the stealership claims they fixed the wiring issue but now all of a sudden they say the starter is bad when I've had zero problems with it starting in the past minus these electrical issues. Sometimes it cranks find and sometimes it just clicks like a dead battery which doesn't seem like a bad starter. Also they said there are no fuseable links in or around the battery ......(!?!?!) so the truck is still there at the shop to get a new starter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 We all know there are fusible links. Time to find a new mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 I sent them an email with the above part numbers.... and to replace it if its not there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) Any recommendations on what i should say to these morons? Are these fusible links the same harness that is in thispic? Thx Edited June 10, 2013 by enkrypt3d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) My battery's all over the place today. The two harnesses in the pic (the bits you could completely unplug from the system) are fuse links. If you follow the harness behind the battery, there should be a plug with a brownish wire coming out and then going back in, which is apparently a separate link for the headlights. The no start/click issue isn't uncommon. Some people wire the starter wires to an accessory relay and then hook power from it to the starter, and from what I've heard, this works pretty well. It's something to keep in mind if the new starter doesn't fix the problem. I'm not sure what the underlying problem is, but I suspect the contacts in the ignition cylinder get grungy and won't pass enough amps to push the starter solenoid properly. Here's a partial writeup (screen shot off the 4x4parts board because I can't find the link): Tact's not my strong point so I won't advise on what to tell the shop. Edited June 10, 2013 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyourface1650 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 installed the harness and it runs now with out stalling out at idle but....still idles around 500-600 when its at operating temp is that ok? Does it seem like that normal or should it be around 750rpm? also seems kind of boggy yet...could be my clutch slipping or something else..i cant get it to run any codes but i know my o2 is old and my clutch is about shot. I know there was a Nissan TSB and a harness was developed. Does anyone have a link to it or where I Can get it? I need one! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJOE Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Could anyone tell me where the idle air control valve is located on a 94 Nissan Pathfinder? I read a description of where it's located for a 96, but not sure if the engine is the same or not. I just had a mechanic change valve cover gaskets for me and he had to take the intake off, he said. I'm wondering if maybe he broke or left a vacuum hose off of it in the process. It's stalling intermittently when you go to stop for a light or turn. Doesn't do it all the time, but certainly sounds like the same problem as everyone is talking about here. I'm taking it back to have him check out for obvious stuff first, then will order the idle air control valve if all else fails. I'd rather not spend $80 on a part if I don't need it. I'd appreciate any responses. I love this old truck, have had it 12 years and want to keep it running as long as possible. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 The IAC valve is under the intake, in the back on the drivers side. You can't see it. There is a controller for the IAC valve also. There is a test in the service manual for the controller. I ended up replacing both IAC and controller on my rig. It's a 95. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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