denley Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 95 pathy 4x4. Trying to remove the torsion bars to start removing and swapping out transmissions. The passenger side came out of the adjuster anchor with ease after removing the c clips. The drivers side on the other hand will not. The anchor is rusted onto the spline of the torsion bar, I have used countless cans of wd-40, torched it, beat, banged, and used every tool known to man to pry on this thing. So then I tried dropping the torsion crossmember and pulling out the front, nope! Too much tension is on it when it's bent down away from the frame. I don't have access to anything more than a reciprocating saw but I'm not sure it will cut that tough of a metal. Any suggestions? I've been working on this for weeks and can't make any headway on it any ideas are appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Sawzall? Yea you can cut through it with that as a last resort. Just use a good quality blade for metal, non some crap all purpose blade. Cut off wheel on a grinder will do it as well if you have one of those available. Ive seen others tell of your same story, they just kept beating-torching etc until it gave up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 One bar is out, the other is rusted into the adjuster, and you can/have dropped the T-bar cross member. Have you loosened the 3 bolts holding the front socket in place? This is what I had to do to pull the bar out. You will still have to deal with the rusted adjuster, but at least it will be on a bench to work on. Also, WD40 doesn't really do much to free rusted components. Proper penetrating oil/slovents, heat and cold and BFH are usually required. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Just keep beating on it. It will eventually come out. Make sure to put some grease on there when you put them back in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Haven't tried the front much, it's rusted so bad I imagine I'll need a breaker bar to loosen them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHR Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Last week I was re installing mine after so many months so I did not remember first the procedure. Everything was clean like new but the front splines did want to enter the front socket (arm) more than a third of the depth. I battled for a while until I decided of being intelligent and read the shop manual. They tell you to jack up (well before you secure the car and release the tensioner) the the lower arm until the rubber stops the move. At this point the socket lines up with the bar and a kid would push it in, This mean a lot of tensions inside, not only the torsion you can release with the adjuster but also flexion of the bar. Doing this could put everything in a position where the BFH mentionned above will produce the final and expected effect like magic. Good luck. Philippe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 ^ Basically what he said. Jack up the control arms. All the way up may not be the ideal position cause as i recall on mine the slid in and out a little easier just below the top position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Tried lifting the control arm, didnt budge. Tried taking out the 3 bolts in the front and the big one starting spinning from the backside and I can't find any way to get a wrench on the back to hold the bolt. Not sure where to go from here. Would rather not cut it but it seems like the easiest option at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHR Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 These bolts and nuts are not of an easy access but if you have to cut, you can get nissan parts right here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-30 When re installing, use anti seize it works perfectly. Let us know. Philippe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 If you cut it, the rest of it will still be stuck in place and still need to be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCommissar Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 raise control arm & support it there remove adjustment bolt/apparatus if not done already both sides support crossmember to relieve downward pressure spray front of bar at splines w/ pb blaster stuff...then do to again... beat that crossmember straight back with bfh bar should come out the front pocket pretty easily with no torsion or tension good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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