rollingrock Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 Is he talking about the valve cover should be black? Because my buddies 93 is that same color. Mine is black, I have a 94. Thats a VG30E as far as I'm concerned. yeah I am starting to think the master tech needs a refresher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Valve cover color makes no difference. That's a VG30E. the "I" is code for throttle body injection, basically looks like a carburetor, "E" is multiport injection and that's what you got right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Your brake fluid looks dark, think about flushing the fluid soonish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 He said, b/c my truck didn't have the black cover on the one side of the engine it meant that I had a "I" that was upgraded at the factory with a fuel injection system. He also said, Nissan calls it an "E" but its really an updated "I". My plate on in the engine bay also stats "E" but parts don't match up. That would explain why my Timing belt was Square vs round..... That all said, this is my theory on what we are dealing with here. I personally think that the timing belt has been changed in the last 50K or so miles...and that whomever did it, replaced the timing belt pullys with older "I" square ones and didn't get the rounded "E" ones b.c they didn't know the difference. This could also explain why my timing may be a tad off. Good theory? I don't think so. As Trogdor said, 93 was the year they switched from square to round tooth, many people only knew when they pulled a cover and looked. This is nothing new. Sorry, I think the theory doesn't fly. No harm in asking though. P1....I bought the sensor on a guess it was the right thing to replace. Due to the condition of it. I will go snap a photo and show you. It's beat on pretty good. And I didn't discuss this particular problem with the tech bc the two sensors are so low in cost I felt I should just give it a try. What I returned to the dealership was all the belts, including timing belt and a few other things that were not right. I bought an "E" timing belt kit and all the belts are wrong. They are too big and don't fit properly in the pulleys. It was making all kinds of noise. I gotta say this has been some fun...(Sarcasm) and more of a comedy of errors. Ok, that makes a bit more sense then, but I'm still wondering about this Master Tech's statements though. I'm not sure I trust him... Don't give up now, these are really minor issues and you are trying to tackle them all at once without a good understanding. That is part of what is confusing things. Not knocking you, just putting things into perspective. Is he talking about the valve cover should be black? Because my buddies 93 is that same color. Mine is black, I have a 94. Thats a VG30E as far as I'm concerned. Agreed, nothing that I can see looks out of place or cobbled together. I'm thinking you just have a early 93 VG30E, nothing weird about it. Didn't we talk about the belt possibilities before? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Nothing against your master tech ( especially if he's a friend) but basing an engine model on a valve cover color is absurd. Your accessory belts didn't fit the pulleys either? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 Nothing against your master tech ( especially if he's a friend) but basing an engine model on a valve cover color is absurd. Your accessory belts didn't fit the pulleys either? Just to be clear, this isn't my friend...I was just working with Billy at Courtesy Nissan and he was kind enough to go grab one of his buddies from the shop to take a look at the truck while I was there. Yes the accessory belts were too big for the pullys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 So that was a Nissan master tech? Just my opinion, I would definitely find another tech. That's odd the belts didn't fit. 90-95 (and probably 87-89) belts should be the same. Courtesy sold all those belts to you as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 IIRC, my Pathy uses V belts and my 200sx uses ribbed belts. Perhaps they pulled up the wrong vehicle? Not all VG30's are the same, afterall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 So that was a Nissan master tech? Just my opinion, I would definitely find another tech. That's odd the belts didn't fit. 90-95 (and probably 87-89) belts should be the same. Courtesy sold all those belts to you as well? I am curious who it was...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 I am curious who it was...... I don't recall his name,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 BTW I got the 4x4 Neutral sensor swapped today....it didn't fix the light problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 hmmm...I see you went into 4L out of curiosity, go 2H-4H, then to neutral. shift to 4L, but back in drive, go forward 20 feet or so, then stop shift back to neutral and shift to 2H. After switching back to 2H, put the truck in reverse and back up at least 10 feet. See if that clears the light out. I didn't see a reply, did you try this? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 I didn't see a reply, did you try this? B I didn't see that, but will try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 Damn....that didn't work. It made a lot of sense though. Chit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 I was hoping. I know my 4x4 light gave me some weird flickers when disengaging before. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 Side bar topic here....I had my wheels balanced...noticed my rear pads are super thin...could that cause the brake light issue ? I didn't know if there was a sensor on the caliper or wheel somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 As the pads wear the fluid level in the master cylinder lowers as the caliper pistons extend further to compensate. Low brake fluid can trigger the brake warning lamp, but when you top off the light goes off unless there is another issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Need to perform the ABS light diagnostic proceedure to find out what error code it is picking up. Then you can start to figure out what the issue is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Need to perform the ABS light diagnostic proceedure to find out what error code it is picking up. Then you can start to figure out what the issue is. Man I sure have tried to ground the #3 pin but for some reason the light doesn't blink for me so I am going to build a longer wire and connect it directly to the battery neg then try the #3 pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Honestly, I don't think one of your hubs is disengaging properly, and that's why the light goes from full bright to dim, instead of off. automatic hubs are known to stick. the light will stay on if either auto hub is locked with the transfer case shifter in 2H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Honestly, I don't think one of your hubs is disengaging properly, and that's why the light goes from full bright to dim, instead of off. automatic hubs are known to stick. the light will stay on if either auto hub is locked with the transfer case shifter in 2H. I thought about that...but I have done a few tests in the gravel with each wheel turned fully each way and stepped on the gas and they are not pulling. I guess to really know I would have to take it apart. BTW when we did the half safts in the front, those hubs, the grease in them looked like melted chocolate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 well darn...I just finished up taking the hubs off and cleaning out all the old grease (or chocolate syrup) and repacked with fresh grease and put all back together. Did a test run with the 4x4 H, L and back to 2H and reverse and still the light is on. when I had it up on jack stands, I would spend the tire even in 4H and the axle was not spinning. But I know is getting to 4H b.c I tested it on the raod by making a few turns to see if they were biting and the were. So I am scratching my head again. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 There are 2 switches on the transfer case, one is the neutral switch and the other is what's listed as a switch assembly. I'd take that out and check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 There are 2 switches on the transfer case, one is the neutral switch and the other is what's listed as a switch assembly. I'd take that out and check it. Thanks, I replaced the switch already, waiting for the neutral switch..should be here today. I took the Pathy and put it my storage unit and got my F250 out to drive it...its been 3 weeks or so so I wanted to spin it around some. I am doing the rear brakes on Sat and the 4x4 Neurtal switch...going to bleed the brakes some too. My brake guy checked the fluid and it checked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Define "checked out". Fluid that dark has probably been in there for a while, and if the fluid contains just 3% water it's defined as "wet" and the boiling point is reduced by a hundred degrees or so. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now