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Horrible loss of power randomly when cold..


NissanNismoZ
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Alright..so black pathy has been choking out pretty badly since it has gottEn cold out..

So..explanantion..say about a mile or two down the road after pulling out Cold..itll jusy stumble BADLY under ANY throttle unless i feather the pedal hard ans quick and shift it down to 1st or second qnd itll usually be okay around 4-6k..until.i.let off some and itll bog and bog!! Making like a FFFFFFFFFFFFFTTTTTTT noise..until warmed up..:/

Heres the video..managed to do it at a friends house..

http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid208.photobucket.com/albums/bb9/Nismo_Nissan_350Z/VID_20121029_192020.mp4

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I had something like that happen to me, the truck would stutter a little in 1st gear when taking off, and then eventually in second also. It was the dizy cap, there was no center electrode contact left so it was just arcing along. Check your dizzy cap for damage, cracks and condensation.

I'd also make sure the TPS is functioning correctly and look for vacuum leaks.

Did you check the ECU for codes?

 

B

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well the check engine light is on, and when it revs high the speed does not increase so is the tranny slipping? It sounds like it's missing really really bad when you give it throttle.

 

I would as Precise said start with checking the codes, than have the spark plug wires ever been replaced that you know of? I would check the dist. cap and rotor as Precise also suggested, you can take a spray bottle of water and at night while running spray down the wires and look for any sparks, it sounds like one of the wires ( or more than one) is bad and is arcing against metal.

 

My sentra had a problem like that I could floor the gas and it would only go so fast, it turned out one of the plug wires had a hole in it down next to the head and it was arcing against the head, wrapped some electrical tape around it as temp fix to get home and it ran fine, although the spark burned thru the tape after about 20 miles.

 

I used a set of NGK plug wires, they fit just like factory wires, are all labeled and the correct size (unlike some cheap aftermarket plug wires that are smaller and do not stay in the wire holders)

Edited by ahardb0dy
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In that video, at least according to the temp gauge, it is warmed up :S .

 

I agree with the other posters, does it smell of unburned fuel? I had a problem similar to that but it was the o2 sensor, and it happened only when warm.

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well the check engine light is on, and when it revs high the speed does not increase so is the tranny slipping? It sounds like it's missing really really bad when you give it throttle.

I think he was stationary and his dash is acting up because its staying on 14mph and slightly moving but if you look on the top left every now and then you see a light thats outside the car so he would be stationary.

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OK, i've been gone all day..but here's what i have..

This pathy doesnt warm up until roughly halfway up the temp gauge..

Red pathy would be warmed up roughly 1/4 up the temp gauge..

 

Lets see..

Spark plugs are new NGK.

Spark plug wires..i havent changed them. but, none appear to arc, but ill check them.

 

My codes are:

14 Vehicle Speed Sensor (explains loss of cruise..)

33 Heated Oxygen Sensor

34 Knock Sensor (i'll ignore for now..as im sure with that stumbling it'd set it off a lot.)

51 Injector Circuit (Problem?)

 

Honestly..I dont know what these codes mean. I dont know how the ECU judges when to throw a code.

My guess since it's not that advanced it would only throw one when say its disconnected, or grounding out?

But. I do know, last time. I unplugged the ECTS and the stumbling stopped. I hate to leave it unplugged as it would try to die everytime i put it in gear. So i replaced it and hqvent had any problems. Then again its not been this cold since i replaced it..so problems are back..

 

Transmission does not slip in any gear but reverse.

Yes, my speedo 'idles at 14mph' and it exactly 14mph off at every speed. It's like it needs rezeroed? It goes down to 0 with key off.

But, if i let it have its fit long enough until its warm, it'll be fine and take off full of power! Like nothing ever happened. It's gotten to a point where i'll just limp somewhere in 1st-2nd gear and let it have its fit until it warms up. But, i know its not safe because the first time someone turns in fromt of me or a light turns red..ill be stuck until it warms up..i dont know what to do??

 

But ill check my wires for a arc and see how that goes.. Thank you!!!!!

BTW I think all thats wrong with the famous red pathy is vacuum lines are in the wrong places! (Yeah..after all this time i compare it to black pathy and see how everything is completely routed wrong...oops.

Anyway..if anymore ideas pop up ill be checking this often. Thanks!

Edited by NissanNismoZ
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Your VSS would explain your speedo. Your heated oxygen sensor is your O2 sensor which could explain your power loss. And your injector circuit is a faulty fuel injector.

Edited by Trogdor636
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You are saying it has a horrible loss of power, so to me that isnt "running smooth"

 

 

I had a 51 once. It started sputtering, and then died. I checked and got the 51. I found one injector that wasnt clicking like the others. Tapped it with a screwdriver, fired it up, ran fine. Cleared the code, and its never come back.

 

The ECU remembers codes for 50 (I think...I'd have to check my book) start ups. Worst you could do is clear the codes and see if the 51 pops back up.

 

Knock sensor I am of no help. I've had one since I bought it. It wont go away, and I'm reluctant to change the damn thing. It runs fine, I just think the timing is off a few degrees because of it.

Edited by Trogdor636
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Aha! Thanks for the clarification!!

OK..so the o2 definitely explains my crappy MPG.

But..injector..how do I know when any are bad when it runs extremely smooth? (At least unless its having.its spell..)

It didn't sound smooth to me. :shrug:

Injector are tested by checking the resistance of the 2 pins, something like 8-12 or 14 ohms cold. I had an injector that only failed when warm, perhaps you have one that only fails cold. Another way to check is to use a mechanics stethescope, you can hear things perfectly and I've seen them for $5.

 

Do you have a copy of the FSM to flip through? Not trying to discourage questions but some of these technical details are answered in it.

 

there is a diagnostic in the FSM under the EC section for "hesitation when cold" you may want to look at.

Good point...

 

B

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when the knock sensor (s) were bad in the Q45 we had, it ran OK but it had no power.

 

I was going to suggest clearing the codes and seeing what comes up as well

 

I think he said when it warms up it runs smooth

Edited by ahardb0dy
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By smooth..I mean like..when its not cold out and having its spell it'll run great!

Hmm.. I'll check my injectors as well. These codes were last reset last week..so they're definitely recent..before when I first.got it, the only codes I had were the H02 sensor. So code 51 would do it? I'll tap on all my injectors and see if maybe one has something stuck in it or something.. and the dizzy cap.. thanks everyone!

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So code 51 would do it? I'll tap on all my injectors and see if maybe one has something stuck in it or something.. and the dizzy cap.. thanks everyone!

 

Its impossible to tell through video, but mine sounded a lot like that. B might have it nailed with his cold/warm injector theory.

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Hmm..well..I mean I'd think that..but it'll drive fine for a mile or two (it always happens at the same spot in the road..) but..I mean its true..It looks like I'll be testing injectors tomorrow. And definitely the dizzy cap..

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Haven't been able to do much

 

But dizzy cap and rotor points look clean. Mayvebjust replaced? Two out of 3 screws were loose..like sitting g there. While the other was a littke snug but not much

Maybe thats the problem? It being loose and lwtting condensation in? Hasnt done it yet.. thanks!

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