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Fan clutch question


trexterra
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So I replaced the fan clutch when I did the T-belt job because I was told that you shouldn't be able to stop the fan while the motor was running and it was up to temperature. Basically if it is supposed to be spinning it shouldn't stop spinning. I made a video to show what's happening even after the new fan clutch. I knew I should have just gone E-fan.

 

th_VID_20120923_152911_zps89b90c2c.jpg

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I am fairly certain, before the swap I drove it the 20 miles to the shop and it was happening then. I guess i'll try again tomorrow after my work commute and see if it's locking up. I don't have an infrared or anything to try and measure temps, just the temp gauge on my dash.

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When you first start the engine, even when cold the fan should be spinning like crazy, if you rev the engine you should hear that the fan is moving some air, you can't not tell it is working. If it is not spinning fast when the engine is hot or if it looks like it's just kind of turning than the new fan clutch is bad. Take it back if you can and get another one. It's not unusual these days for a new part to be bad out of the box.

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I generally go by two factors. How much can I freewheel it cold (about 1/2 spin, the less the better generally) and does the engine temp rise when slow or stopped. Both generally indicate poor fan performance. That one doesn't seem to work at all...

 

B

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Since I replaced my fan clutch, the temp gauge never goes above a 1/4, mid 90's down here, AC on, in traffic, always stays in the same place. And as I said you can definitely hear the fan is engaged when it is.

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Ok so today after my commute instead of popping the hood right when I got home I let it sit and idle with the AC going for a few minutes. I saw the temp rise just slightly but it staid fairly constant. Took a towel and tried to stop it again and this time it was working correctly. Problem avoided. Just had to go about troubleshooting a different way instead of believing everything a mechanic says.

 

Yeah. Fan clutch replacement is a lot simpler than going E-fan. BTW, where is your fan shroud? Do you normally run without it?

 

Yeah that got ripped off about 4 months ago and been doing fine without it. Might be different wheeling but I get around town/traffic just fine.

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The shrouds on these trucks are surprisingly weak and break very easily. I didn't believe it at first until I broke mine taking it out. They seem very flexible but yet they're not as tough as they seem.

 

exactly, after the body lift it didn't fit right and when I hit a bump the fan started chopping away at it so I had to pull over on the side of the road and yank it out in a gas station parking lot. I broke the bottom out of frustration and lack of tools to get it out.

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The shrouds on these trucks are surprisingly weak and break very easily. I didn't believe it at first until I broke mine taking it out. They seem very flexible but yet they're not as tough as they seem.

Not from my experience. I've removed/installed them on 3 WD21s and 2 Rr50s drivers plus many from the junkyard and never had one break in any way. Not an issue...

 

If you lift, you should remove the bottom 1/3 piece that is designed to come off for clearance. It will cool well enough but leave the rest of the shroud to help with cooling and for general safety, it succeeds with both.

 

B

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They will differ! The shroud is like some of the plastic in the interior. It's decent until it stays on a hot radiator for quite some time. The shrouds seem to lose their plastic bonding and turn brittle from heat. Mine was weird where it was like a cracker on one side and reasonably flexible and strong on another.

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The shroud that was on my 87 hardbody, which I owned from brand new for 14 years, and it lived thru NY winters and summers, mud, pressure washing at the car wash, body lift, etc, was in as good condition when I got rid of the truck as it was when I picked it up new, no problem at all with the plastic.

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