Rocky88 Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Hello, It's been awhile since i've posted! Here it goes, my windows do not want to roll down or up. I have tested the drivers side window with a DIMM and it's pulling or supposedly .013v dc from the door. I don't think its the switch because the passenger side doesn't work either. I need some help on trying to find some fuse or where to look where the wire is coming from. There's no fuse in the fuse box that states it's clearly for the windows. help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Check the wiring diagrams in the FSM? I'd suspect a bad relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Usually the driver side master switch controls both sides, so if the drivers side switch is bad it could prevent the pass side from working. I take it the pass. side does not work from the pass. side switch? I would pull the panels and test if the motors work by connecting them to a known good 12 volt source. There are only 2 wires on the motors so the positive and negatives get switched for up or down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 If the passenger side works and drivers does not: 1) You may still have a bad power window amplifier. It is a white box abot 1x1x3 located behind the passenger side kick panel. Listen for a relay opening and closing behind this kick panel when you press the button for the driver side window. You should hear it click. 2) I would swap the main switch with a known good switch. If nothing changes test the motor on the drivers side as noted above. 3) You may also have a bad connection from the drivers door harness to the main harness in the dash. These harnesses come together underneath the carpet beneath the plastic 'dumb pedal' in the carpet where your left foot would rest. The hardness has been stepped on over and over for years...... 4) check both body grounds behind each of the kickpanels on the left and right side. your basic power flow is: main switch-> amplifier -> back out to main and the other three switches-> and to the four motors. ie if you disconnect the amplifier module nothing will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Both sides do not work, i'm going to buy some wire and connect it from the harness to the motor. I bet it's the relay too. Is it weird I only have 2 relays on the inner fuse box? I'm missing my EGI relay, but i have the one on the left side and the IGN 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Where would be a good place for a source of power? i was thinking on getting it straight from the battery but i don't want to have to do that. I tried putting some wire in between the cig lighter but no use.. any suggestions? Both of the windows don't work. I checked the ohms all the wires are good. I'm just about to take it to the shop haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 The master switch only controls the drivers side on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I don't think there are any relays involved for the power windows. I would as I said just run a wire from the positive on the battery to each wire on each motor to see if the motors do work. Ground one of the wires going to the motor connector and put power on the other terminal ( there are only 2 terminals on the motors), if the motor works reverse the 2 wires to see if the window moves the opposite direction. If the motors work than you can go from there troubleshooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted September 26, 2012 Author Share Posted September 26, 2012 Okay, looks like the windows both work, kinda did a bad job getting them power but that's beside the point! What's the best way of finding out if the window amplifier works? I took off one of the harnesses and checked the ohms, looks like a pretty solid connection between that and the box. It looks really confusing, it has 3 other connections to it. Maybe i just solved one of my issues.. checking which one has power and which one doesn't. I'll let you guys know what I figure out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted September 26, 2012 Author Share Posted September 26, 2012 http://www.courtesyparts.com/28515x-amplifier-assy-auto-power-window-pathfinder-wd21-1987-1995-p-546054.html is this what i'm looking for by the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 (edited) if you can get the window amplifier apart, I would check closely for bad solder joints, if you find any, you can just heat them up to make them good again. The best way to tell if the amplifier is bad is to swap in one that you know works. here's a video on what to look for and showing how to take the amplifier apart, it's for a different Nissan but I think they all look the same: Using Nissan FAST I got this part number which says it was superceeded: Old Part Number 28515-43G10 New Part Number B851543G85 Part Name AMPLIFIER ASSY- MSRP $148.23 Core $0.00 Online Price $108.95 this was from http://www.trademoti...h&siteid=214041 Edited September 26, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 This voltage amplifier is a little tricky to get off. Anybody have any tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 What do you mean tricky to get off? Do you mean getting the board out of the plastic case or??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 Ive tried to get this whole plastic piece off, i unscrewed the bottom one off, and disconnected everything, it still wants to stay on. I routed all the window stuff to this connector that's in the picture. It would be easier to take the whole thing off if possible. I want to try what this video says to do. looks interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) that looks like it is under the dash? I thought the window amplifier was in the rear behind one of the side panels? Edited October 1, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 That isnt the power window amplifier. It is a white box about 1x1x5 inches. It is on the passenger side behind the kick plate. It has a metal bracket on it with a 10mm bolt holding it to the body. If it is working you can hear it (the relay inside) click when you hit the switch. PART NUMBER: B8515-43G85 DESCRIPTION: AMPLIFIER-POWER WINDOW $109.40 (NISSAN LIST: $168.99) (COURTESY: $124.00) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 should look just like or very similar to the one in the video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 that looks like it is under the dash? I thought the wiper amplifier was in the rear behind one of the side panels? window amp not wiper amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 thanks I corrected it, LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Okay I took off some of the panels behind the kick plate closer to the rear side window, it has 3 screws including the ground. I took it apart can't seem to find any bad soldering, it has 2 boards on it with 2 8 pin connections. When I get home looks like I'm going to be busy. It looks brand new on the inside, straight from the factory. I'll get some pictures too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 should look just like or very similar to the one in the video that is defianely the window amplifier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 By the way is this, in anyway connected to my transmission? when i had this unplugged, my transmission would not shift into gear. With it, yes. I'm trying to go the cheapie route without buying a new one. i'll get myself to a junk yard before I buy a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 I don't think that is the window amplifier, it should look identical to the one in the video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p189/Cylops142/IMAG0248.jpg This was behind the kick plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) nope, not it either. I looked in the FSM for my 94 and it shows a "Window amplifier" in the wiring diagram, it looks like it is near the pass. side kick panel. But in the FSM for my 87 and one for an 89, in the same wiring diagram it doesn't say "window amplifier" it just says "amplifier" and it shows it below the radio. Edited October 4, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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