trexterra Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) Wondering if the radiators for either the sr20 or ka24 are the same dimension as the vg30 because I found a sale for some premade efan kits with aluminum shrouds that are on sale. Here is the link. If anybody knows if they would work or be pulling enough CFM I would appreciate the help. The kit is normally 265 but it's on sale for 140 Edited July 3, 2012 by trexterra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Radiator sizes: 91 SE-R Sentra with SR-20 engine Row No 1 Core Height 12 5/8" Core Width 25 1/2" Core Depth 1" Inlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 5/16" Outlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 5/16" Inlet 1 1/8" Outlet 1 1/8" Engine Oil Cooler None Transmission Oil Cooler 7 7/8" (Concentric) 91 Hardbody with KA24 engine: Row No 1 Core Height 16 7/8" Core Width 25 1/2" Core Depth 1" Inlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Outlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Inlet 1 3/8" Outlet 1 3/8" Engine Oil Cooler None Transmission Oil Cooler 11 3/4" (Concentric) 94 pathfinder VG30: Row No 1 Core Height 16 7/8" Core Width 25 1/2" Core Depth 1" Inlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Outlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Inlet 1 3/8" Outlet 1 3/8" Engine Oil Cooler None Transmission Oil Cooler 11 3/4" (Concentric) All data taken from Spectra Premium radiators 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 KA24E and VG30E have the same radiators. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 seems like they do now doesn't it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trexterra Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 ah ha! This is good news. I knew NPORA would hook me up. Now, the secondary question is what are peoples opinions on this particular fan setup? As far as the set up being specific to an Auto or Manual trans is there a difference for mounting because of the built in transmission cooler? It seems as if i'll still need to come up with my own wiring, temp gauge, and switch but that shouldn't be expensive or difficult. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 The only difference between auto and manual trans as far as radiators would be if the cooler in the radiator is still being used, you would have the 2 lines going into the bottom of the radiator, I don't think they would be an issue even if the fans shroud goes down that low it could be notched to clear the lines There are numerous fan controllers on the market so you wouldn't need to make your own. Having a gauge is nice but is not needed to run the fans, BUT it is nice to know what the temp is in case for any reason the fan controller does not turn the fans on. A long time ago in my 87 Hardbody I was running a large electric fan in place of the belt driven fan, I don't recall if a fuse blew or what but we were hanging out one night and I looked at the temp gauge and it was WAY up there, a quick trip up and down the street brought the temp back down to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 There are a few fan controllers I would recommend based on what my experiences were and what other members said: 1. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=641/prd641.htm 2. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-30332/ 3. http://www.amazon.com/Flex---lite-31165-Variable-Control/dp/B000CNN3LS/ As far as I can tell, the first one can be calibrated to the factory gauge (even though they do not recommend doing this). Do not buy a cheap Hayden unit, they have been proven to be unreliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Just because they are physically the same size, doesn't mean the inlet and outlets are in the same place... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 that's true but he wasn't asking to use a radiator from another vehicle, he wanted to know if they were the same size to see if the dual fan unit would work on the VG30 radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 The outlets should not matter for an electrical fan as the tie down points for the shroud should be in the same place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trexterra Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 awesome thanks guys. Once I sell some of my volkswagen stuff (anyone need a k24 turbo?) i'm going to be going the e-fan route. Research has always been my friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Just because they are physically the same size, doesn't mean the inlet and outlets are in the same place... Just because I can elaborate here, my rad in my truck (88 3.0) is out of my old 91 KA powered 4x4 HB, which was donated from a 93+ 2wd KA powered HB. They do interchange completely between d21s and wd21s no matter the engine size 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Most people keep records of when parts were replaced, Nunya has to keep records of which part came from which parts truck 3 vehicles back !! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 That's good news. I knew they were interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trexterra Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 yeah the mechanic on base here said my fan clutch was not engaging all the time, especially when at a stop or slow moving traffic which i'm sure is eating up some of my efficiency. He advised me to get a new one when I have him do the belts so it wouldn't add any labor charges but I think i'd rather just get rid of the fan altogether. Are you still running an Efan Tungsten? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Yes I am but planning to convert to E-fan ASAP. My fan clutch isn't engaging all the time either which gives me problems with the A/C and the engine temp going up too high with A/C. I will try to burp the cooling system first but chances are the fan clutch is just too far away from the radiator to sense it properly. I am not running a factory fan clutch so that could be one reason. Either way, what I am going to do is to try and integrate a 3.8 Taurus fan into the factory shroud. That should help out big time and I may even pick up a few extra miles to the gallon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trexterra Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 (edited) The only reason I found out about my fan clutch going out was because I was having AC issues. A good flush and refill helped it out immensely but he also said the same thing about the fan not kicking on and overheating the AC system so it wasn't cooling anything down. I was about to start a taurus swap on my xterra right before I sold it, had the fan all ready but never did the swap. I suck at wiring things, I need a paint by numbers book on wiring. Sadly the fan ended up in the garbage can. I hear it draws some pretty heavy amperage though on start up. Something like 35 to start and 7 to sustain. I had a quest alternator in my xterra so I wasn't worried about it. Might be something I should worry about with my stock alternator. Edited July 6, 2012 by trexterra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trexterra Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 ok so this is my plan for the setup... ka24 fan set up as per OP - $140 flex a lite 31165 - $100 random stuff like heat shrink - ? Now it's just a question of how much do I want Efan, or do I just buy another fan clutch for fifty bucks and call it a day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 The fan you have in your OP seems like a nice piece, and the 31165 fan controller is awesome. (Utilized it on my XJ.) The only issue I have is the site DOES NOT list the CFM of the fans... This concerns me because in my experience with the WD21 and cooling I have played around quite a bit with various E fans and found them to be a bit underpowered to keep the motor cool and AC functioning effectively... The Taurus 3.8 E fan runs around 4800 CFM, which is a crazy amount of air. Mine does more than enough to keep my motor cool, and the AC blows ice cold even while sitting still... (This in 100+ weather in TN.) I say do what you want, because it is your truck after all. But it would be a bad day to discover that it was unable to cool after buying and installing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 We did about a 150 mile round trip today in 90 degree plus heat with the 3.8 taurus fan in our 88 and the temp gauge never went over half way and only the low speed is hooked up. Someone here in the forums said the taurus fan sucked the chrome off the traier ball on the truck in front of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Awesome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) There are a few fan controllers I would recommend based on what my experiences were and what other members said: 1. http://www.dakotadig...=641/prd641.htm 2. http://www.summitrac...arts/FLX-30332/ 3. http://www.amazon.co.../dp/B000CNN3LS/ As far as I can tell, the first one can be calibrated to the factory gauge (even though they do not recommend doing this). Do not buy a cheap Hayden unit, they have been proven to be unreliable. #2 Own one, had it fail and cause me to blow a coolant line on the trail, when I got home I rebuilt it recognized the design flaws and I WOULD NOT recommend for trail use or wet environments. I Also do not recommended for fans exceeding 35a start up and 20 continuous. I gave my feedback to Flex A Lite about how the design could be improved they said thank you and sent me a product several notches higher than what I was suggesting. (that's the short version don't get any sneaky ideas) #3 What I received to replace the other unit. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this unit. The controller is epoxy encased and is a solid state electronic controller. (no moving parts to fail, no contacts to burn and no exposed circuits to corrode) Plus it has a soft start feature that allows it to turn heavy fans at a lower amperage until they get moving. This is very kind to your electrical system. Edited July 7, 2012 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trexterra Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 all good info, and upon realizing that the top of my muffler had rusted through I decided to get the exhaust done before moving on to anything else. So for now i'm just going to throw in a new fan clutch when I get the timing belt done just to save some money. But now I know what I want for when the time comes. I'll have to keep my eyes open for a taurus fan and slowly piece it together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 I replaced my fan clutch a while back and down here in our lovely 94 degree plus heat on my 36 mile drive home from work with the AC on, my temp gauge never goes above 1/4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trexterra Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 yeah i've been running without a fan shroud and a semi seized clutch for over a week now with no overheating issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now