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O2 Sensor Code and Power Loss?


vengeful
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I've been debating whether or not to post this for a couple days, but I've been getting mixed answers from mechanics and other boards. So I'll try here and see if I can either confirm or deny any of the previous answers I've received.

 

Somewhere in PA along my 400 mile drive from DC to Rochester, I noticed that my truck started to act kinda funny. The Torque Converter was unlocking and revving the engine up on very slight hills. I thought to myself, "that's odd, it wasn't doing that earlier." This was about 1/4 way through a tank of gas. I thought, "Oh well, must be bad gas, I'll just run it out and fill up with good gas later." Then about 50 miles later, the SES light comes on. Oh great! Well...I got about 200 miles out of that tank of gas, compared to my average of 270-280, and got 200 miles out of my last tank as well, and am on pace to only get about 200 or less out of this one. I'm at 50 miles and its down 1/4. :unsure:

 

Anyways, when I got into Rochester, I stopped at Advance Auto Parts (luckily they're open till 9 on Sundays now!), and had the codes run. They came back as my usual EVAP codes which did not concern me because they've never affected me in almost 40,000 miles of having them as my truckmates. But there was one more code on the list that really got me stirring.

 

O2 Sensor, Bank 2, Sensor 2, No Activity. Now, I know this is not good. Decrease in gas mileage, power loss, and an O2 sensor code is never a good combination. Basically what I'm asking for is your suggestions as to what might be the cause.

 

Here's how the truck sits currently: 81.5k miles. I had the post-cats replaced at 51,000 miles because they said they were faulty. However, I have my doubts as to whether they were really replaced or whether or not they were actually faulty and the shop just wanted more of my money. The shop stated that they were rattling internally and the housings were "comprimised." :unsure: I have the Jim Wolf Tech Pop-Charger air intake (which I cleaned about 2 days before the trip), and a Flowmaster 40-Series exhaust. I'm running NGK Platinum spark plugs.

 

Now, a few questions. I've been running the JWT for about 40,000 miles, and have never had a problem with it, I have cleaned it every 10,000 miles to keep it at max efficiency. Could cleaning it this last time have allowed too much sediment into my engine and clogged up the cats? I've heard of this happening with K&N intakes, but never with the JWT. Another question, could the gas I had purchased (It was some mom & pop joint in the middle of nowhere, PA) have caused my truck to run either too lean or too rich, and thus blown out the cats?

 

I have yet to bring the truck in to a shop for diagnosis or repair as of yet, because I was waiting on some third-party opinions, but they seem to be contradicting. So far, as explanations, I've heard: Fried ECM, Fried O2 Sensor, Fried Circuitry for the O2 sensor, clogged Cat, Blown Cat. I tend to disbelieve the fried ECM because the truck wouldn't run properly without it. I tend to disbelieve the fried O2 sensor because the code wouldn't have come up as No Activity, it would have been an O2 Sensor Malfunction code....Now....your turn. What do you think? Thanks in advance.

 

Sorry for the essay, I just wanted to make sure you have all the information you could possibly want or need regarding this issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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I would replace the 02 sensor. I had the same thing happen on my 2001 but luckily under warranty. Correct me if I wrong but Bank 2 sensor 2 should be right under the driver side and pretty easy to replace if you can get it loose. I have heard from the dealer that these things just go bad, which sucks because they can run from $60.00 to $100.00. I would suggest replacing it and going back to AutoZone or advance and have them rest your computer. Any other opinions? :shrug:

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I bought my pathy and had to catch up quick on this same deal...check it out....the same exact code showed up on me first also, but along with knock sensor. I incidentally just bit the bullet and bought a new O2 sensor for bank 2 sensor 2, then being the dumba** that i am swaped bank 1 sensor 2 out and the code came back (sure it did you replaced the wrong one idiot!). so i bought the opposite sensor as i did the first time (that is what advance had instock) and swapped it out..........no more O2 codes.

 

****HINT****those d**n sensors are exactly the same and are somehow different by $10 at the counter so buy the cheaper one of the two and swap it yourself, it is really easy if you use some PB Buster on the O2 first. If you buy the BOSCH universal you will have to remove your stocky first, then cut the harness off the end and re-attach it to the universal...i say that both secondary sensors are the same--well they are, just one has a longer pig-tail than the other, but since you have to cut the factory harness anyway it is no matter, you just cut more off the harness side leaving less on the O2 side...trust me you CAN do it.

 

as for the ripoffship that said they did it tell them about it make them pay for a new one and go that route...but just as TRIALSIN26 said, I would clear the codes and try again. I waited until the third SES to buy my first O2.

 

for that EVAP crap, i am going to order the parts and swap that crap out, i let yuo know how it goes, and if you need ANY help on that O2--Holla

 

Chris

 

:beer:

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Well...I've already replaced every component of my EVAP system to no avail....and there are no adverse affects of the EVAP codes that I can notice, so I'm just ignoring them. I'll try to clear the codes and see what happens. Thanks for the advice.

 

You don't think it could be the cat?

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ive had this problem a couple times in the past.. the first time it was my O2 sensor. and the 2nd time i just called and they asked me if it was runnin ok and it was so they said it was nothin major and it was fine to drive, and my check engine light went off a couple days later. but 2 days ago i was drivin up snowboardin and my check engine light came on AGAIN... my car seems to still be runnin fine and everything so im wondering if its just another O2 sensor. is there anyway to just reset it or turn the stupid light off??? like there is on some other kinds of cars.

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Whats up with the stupid EVAP codes anyways? Every few months it'll pop up and then dissappear within a day.

 

We don't have an Autozone anywhere even close to hear and the first time I had my SES light pop up ever, it was on a 400 mile road trip. I took it up to the stealer and they popped me with the $80 diag. fee and told me "well looks like your gas cap was loose." F***ers.

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A couple days ago, I got the codes erased with one of those Fancy Shmancy OBDII Scantool jobbers they have at AutoZone. I should really get one....anyways, I'm off-topic.

 

Not even an hour later, the SES light came back on. Got it scanned again, same codes. Figured, what the hell, I'll just spring for em, and buy the O2 Sensor and replace it over break, it's only like $60-100....

 

But then, tonight, the SES light mysterious turned itself off and the power came back! :wacko: My truck has this weird thing about fixing itself....shrug. Oh well, I'm not going to fix it, since the truck decided it's not broken anymore! If the light comes back, then, maybe I'll fix it...lol.

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My SES Light did that several times when my O2 sensor went bad. It would come on, then turn it’s self off after a couple off days, or I would turn it of with my friend’s lap top and the next morning it would come back on. More then likely it will come back on in a couple of days, but if not I agree don’t replace it.

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Light's come and gone twice since my last post. However, my gas mileage is back up to the 17-18mpg range :eek: That's higher than it's been in a LONG time. Anyways...the power loss is still present, but not quite as bad, and the SES light is on again. I'm going to go to AAP tomorrow and get the code run. If its the same one, I'm going to go ahead and fix the O2 sensors.

 

Bank 2 is the "right" side right?

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Should be no problem to fix but I would also buy a Haynes manual to help you along. The hardest part will probably be trying to get that sensor out. The rest involves putting the new sensor back in the bank and pluging it back into the system. Also you might want to rest the code.

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so it can come on do to a loose fuel cap?? if thats the case then thats probably my problem...it came on shortly after i got gas.

Not only that, but sometimes they can even be damaged, and or faulty, and leak vapor, which will then (system working properly) set off the check engine light.

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  • 8 months later...

Sorry if this is a stuipd question. I am new at this. In the R50 where is

Bank 1, Sensor 1

Bank 1, Sensor 2

Bank 2, Sensor 1

Bank 2, Sensor 2

 

When you say left side does it mean the driver side in US.

When you say right side does it mean the passanger side in US.

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Bank 1 = right side

Bank 2 = left side

 

Sensor 1 = pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor

Sensor 2 = post-catalytic converter O2 sensor

 

Left side = left side, when facing forward while sitting in the driver's seat.

Right side = right side, when facing forward while sitting in the driver's seat.

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Bank 1 = right side

Bank 2 = left side

 

Sensor 1 = pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor

Sensor 2 = post-catalytic converter O2 sensor

 

Left side = left side, when facing forward while sitting in the driver's seat.

Right side = right side, when facing forward while sitting in the driver's seat.

Thanks for the explaination. That really clear things up for me.

Now I can change my O2 sensor on the weekend with confidenance.

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