Blizzardking

Not only that, but sometimes they can even be damaged, and or faulty, and leak vapor, which will then (system working properly) set off the check engine light.

Another word - Car Parts sly

Jerdude, I have experienced this problem before on one of my old rigs. Reseting the Computer only solved the problem temporarly. What ended up fixing the problem was I replaced the Torque Converter Solenoid, and wallah, problem solved; and not once did I take her to the tranny shop. Noy saying this is your problem, just saying, keep it in mind, before you replace the whole thing. It was the reason I decided never to by an automatic again, I kept letting the problem go, and reseting the Computer. Until one day on a trip to Philadelphia, it decided to leave me stranded, untill it decided it wanted to shift properly again. Good luck, Mike BLK

WaarrEagle, I would not see it as a problem if you get back exactly what you put in on your Max. I expect nothing less when changing my Pathy's oil. I could understand the notion that small amounts of oil could be lost, but not in measurable quantities. The day I begin to loose measurable quantities of oil, I would just assume that their is some type of internal leak, and depending on the ammount, I would get it looked at. One thing to try is, before you start her in the morning, have someone else start her for you and you stand by the tailpipe and look for any initial blue smoke, or if you know what burned oil smells like smell for it. Usually it starts out small and over time increases. Also, altough Synthetic's "alegedly" don't cause oil consumption, most experts agree that it will increase the usage if a leak was already present................... Good Luck, Mike BLK

I can't emphesize how important that is. Even if she doesn't plan on towing anything, you should get this done. If you look through the archives here, you will notice quite a few ("I have no reverse?", or "do I need a new tranny?"). So even if you didn't do anything, DO THIS.

There's always time for Barry. What's wrong with Barry? pssd

:o Darn, look man, I don't want to spark a new debate here. God only knows how many times this subject has been discussed, not only at this site. I AM NO SCIENTIST, well UHUMMM not yet anyhow; but if you were to ask me, I would tell you not to use synthetics, because in MY own experience with MY previous vehicles, the problem you have stated, I had happen also. These are my findings, I understand some folks do not have any problems, and thats great, all i'm saying is that I have had that happen to me on my previous vehicles. This after being convinced time after time that syn's are better; I know how you feel, you want the best for your rig, and somehow, in your mind you try to find good things about it, and you figure well, their 5.00$ a qt, so it has to be good. At least this is the way I would always convince my self, I mean if you listen to the statistics and the commercials, one would conclude that the stuff is outstanding. When in fact (in my opinion) it does more harm than good. Since I purchased my 97 Pathy, I have not, and will never introduce a synthetic based oil, to any part of my rig. To ME it's not worth the risk. As to wether or not it is covered by your warranty, I would not mention the fact you used a synthetic. Just act like you have no idea why it is burning oil. I do not know the warranty rules for Nissan, I believe some warrantys are voided if a synthetic is used, But don't quote me on that one, it sounds like something I might have heard somewhere. Just my OPINION. Good luck, Mike BLK

Ah yes, it sure does sly Go BLK, BLK, BLK

I agree Jim, so with that said, I recomend you close this topic. Allowing it to continue once the decision was made, only ads to a debate that is already closed. I would of closed it a long time ago, but since you are directly involved, I'll leave it as a decision for you to make. Mike BLK

Kanye West ****************The Hottest CD in the Nation**********

Western New York (Buffalo) - I paid 1.85 89 Octane, but the area is hovering between 1.90 - 2.02 87 Octane.

At the very least, you should have requested some Raybestos non- reman, or Nissan brake pads. Those reman cheap ones the auto stores offer are complete crap!

pssd Unfortunately, there are only seven OFFICIAL members that have Pathy's in the 2000+ year models, in NPORA. And probably not many are logged on and browsing around. It's one of those things, where you will probably get an answer for your question, but you'll have to wait a litle longer. 80's and 90's rigs pretty much make up most of our members, next time if you want a faster answer, then post your question in the 96+ forum, the probability that someone with your year rig that has the knowledge to answer your question, is much higher there. As far as I am concerned I try to answer questions as fast as possible, If I feel another moderator, or someone else who is always around could get the answer out faster, then i'll wait before I start to google around. All in time; if anyone needed any aswer that was criticly time sensative, then I would advise them to call the dealer, not trying to pass the buck, just trying to help you out................

If it is that time critical of a decision for you, then your best bet is to call the DEALER, and ask. If I had to give you a guess, then I would say, 05-w30, because it's what most new engine vehicles run. It also depends on how many miles you have, although it might say 05-30, alot of folks go to a heavier weight, at higher mileage. Also, chech your oil cap, most times it will say right on top.

You have my blessing!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can't wait to see.................

Wow Jim, I mean; when are you going to stop man :o . How much hight are you adding all toghter? It seems like everyweek your adding something new sly. You already have a 3" lift right. It's been a big year already for your truck huh. How much do you think you've invested in her in 04 .

Wow , I wasnt aware that a Warn Winch would cost as much, if not more than the ARB Bumper. My sight's are set on the ARB bumper; before I look at getting a winch. I would recomend though that you get a heavy duty bumper, or bruch guard (bull guard)............

After speaking to Jim, I have decided not to do a new Poll Quarterly, so the results posted below, are the ultimate results on this topic. Thank's to all the Members who voted. Here are those results below, What Motor Oil are you using? Amsoil [ 2 ] [6.25%] Castrol GTX [ 11 ] [34.38%] Castrol GTX Higher Mileage [ 0 ] [0.00%] Castrol Synblend Castrol Syntec [ 3 ] [9.38%] Coastal [ 0 ] [0.00%] Coastal Synthetic [ 0 ] [0.00%] Havoline [ 1 ] [3.13%] Havoline Synthetic [ 0 ] [0.00%] Mobil Drive Clean [ 0 ] [0.00%] Mobil1 Synthetic [ 3 ] [9.38%] Pennsoil [ 1 ] [3.13%] Pennsoil Synthetic [ 2 ] [6.25%] Redline Synthetic [ 0 ] [0.00%] Quaker State Winter Synthetic Blend [ 0 ] [0.00%] Quaker State HP Synthetic [ 2 ] [6.25%] Valvoline [ 1 ] [3.13%] Valvoline Dura Blend [ 1 ] [3.13%] Valvoline Max Life [ 4 ] [12.50%] Valvoline Synpower [ 1 ] [3.13%] Total Votes: 32

???? Glad to hear you got yourself a used Distributor...........Got to love E-bay Anyhow, here is some past issues that might help you decide or trouble shoot. 1.) problem 2.) frustration 3.) problem solved Good luck, Mike BLK

What about the Distributor You continue to purchase these parts, when you have recieved SOLID advice; to replace your distributor. Are you having a problem locating one?

What is next? How about a sound clip, of your rig's new system? Overall Jim that looks great. I wonder though How much that cost you, not including the headers. If you didnt pay great deal, that might be a better alternative to the manifold seal replacement. Good job on the pic's...........

You should probably try PM'ing Jim, He has what you might say, quite a history with distributor problems. If any body hear knows about distributor problems and diagnosis, it would be Jim.

I would definately look at the distributor next.................This might be the answer your looking for.............your symptoms are consistant to other problems I have heard of, and it happened to be a bad distributor. At this point, it's worth a try...............Good luck.

Mookie, do you have any video of your rig in action? I think Members would get a real kick out of watching your rig. I know I would............Thats a mean rig you have there, -evil- you should definately show it off more............ Take care, Mike

You could check the rear vacuum hose behind the engine, check that it is well connected at both ports. Although, my rig does do that once in a while; i am to the oint of also belieaving it is EGR related. The only thing keeping me from diagnosing it as so, would be the fact that I have yet to recieve a Check engine light, and no codes come up. Which to my knowledge, is a classic symptom of the EGR being faulty. My Father has a 1997 s-10 Pick-up, with the notorious 4.3l Vortec engine, which is known heavily for having faulty EGR valves, but you would, along with the rpm changes, get a check engine light. Which he has both, check engine light and flucktuating idle speeds. You really dont hear much about Pathfinders, with faulty Egr valves. But at this point I would have to say; Egr valve would probably be the next place to look. Also you did not mention anything about your Cat converter, what kind of shape is it in? Another thing to look at that could also cause this type of issue, would be a LEAKING MANIFOLD . Good luck, and keep us posted on this one.