Extreme Cold Weather Problem

[frecklecolouredbrain]

Ok so here's the what's up

 

Today, It was -49C w/windchill and I had all the normal problems: STIFF clutch, molasses in the tranny, no turn signals etc(anyone else have these happen?). But, these are all fine; I know they happen and why, except the signals

 

One thing, however, I just can't figure out. When coasting to a stop the engine dies immediately. No sputter. No chug, No shake. It just drops smoothly down to zero rpm. If I dump the clutch or turn the key(without doing anything else), it starts right back up like nothing is wrong.

 

Here's how it happens:

On the clutch off the gas, over 3k rpm -25C and colder.

 

*if I tap the gas as light as you can imagine, when its below 3k rpm, the rpm drops just as smoothly down to idle.

**from 0C to -24C the same thing happens but only down to 400rpm, then it bounces back up to idle.

 

I'm usually really good at figuring this stuff out, but I'm stumped. I can't even find an answer in the Good Book.

 

Anybody?

[1994SEV6]

First of all.... you might be dead. Can humans survive in -49C? I just calculated it, that's -56.2F. That's cold.

Instead of driving, I think it's best if you went inside and burned your possessions for all of the warmth they can provide.

 

Meanwhile.. 60F in Maryland!! When it should be 20

 

I'm more amazed at cars and engines and mechanics and their robustness everyday.

At some point, you would think that running a car wouldn't be possible.

did you have to heat up your gas tank? I doubt it's related, but I'm just curious. Does your gas tank freeze? I know gasoline doesn't start freezing until -100, but there are other things in your tank.

 

On to your problem.

Your turn signals? It may sound stupid, but the first thing I thought of were frozen terminals. Or a little bit of condensation in/around the wires, terminals, or bulbs that froze.

 

The smoothness of the engine dying sounds kinda like a spark problem. If it was a fuel problem, it would sputter and chug. the only thing I can think of that would make it die suddenly and smoothly is complete lack of spark. And possibly stalling it.

Edited January 19, 2012 by 1994SEV6

[Slartibartfast]

I'm surprised it runs at all at that temp. Is it getting to operating temperature? You might try the computer, see if it's throwing any codes. I've heard the coolant temperature sensor can make the engine die, so maybe check that out. The only other thing I can think of is that the air going in is sufficiently colder/denser to confuse the ECU. You could try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then hooking it back up; this will make the ECU relearn how to operate the engine in your atmospheric conditions. (It'll also clear codes, so check those first.)

 

If all else fails, maybe try some kind of intake heater?

 

The signals not working isn't too surprising. Mine (and others I've heard about) get louder when they're cold. The flasher unit relies on heat to cycle the bulbs on and off (like the flashing bulb for xmas tree lights), so in the vat of liquid nitrogen you seem to be living in, they may just not be heating enough to cycle. If this is the case, they're just turning the light on solid. IIRC, heavy duty flashers/flashers for LED turn signals are set up differently, so you could swap one of those in and get your flashers back.

[adamzan]

It's called canada and we deal with the cold here although -49 is rare we do see -40 a few times a year where I am.

 

I agree, check the cylinder head temp sensor.

[frecklecolouredbrain]

didnt think aboit the sensor as it will start right back up and run fine...was thinkin maybe a tb issue but ill check it out when it warms up in april. As for today its -effin hellC again and well...shes outta commision an in the parking lot at work.

Good thing i work at can tire....in auto service

[Dowser]

Hey man.

 

I lived up in Northern Alberta where it got to -54C a couple of times and worse with windchill and I can tell you this is what I did.

 

First things first, Tick these off your list if you have them and acquire them if you do not.

 

- Block heater

- Battery Blanket

- Transmission Pan heater pad

- Power steering heating pad.

- Front Grill wind block

 

With those, and use either 0 or 5 weight oil for the worst of the year and you'll be running like a top,

 

The power steering one is a choice but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Got to love that high pitch whine you hear as you pump tries to force that cold oil thru. It's just screaming for warmth.

 

Also I got to see what diff oil looks like on one of the coldest days when wwe removed a diff cover outside without draining it. It just sat there like an ice cube . Pretty interesting. Good luck with the cold.

[frecklecolouredbrain]

Ok so i was reading an u. Related thread and...FACEPALM. No warm air intake and no egr makes for one hell of a coldair charge in the manifold.

 

An thank fo those tips dowser...except dor the "saskatchewan winter front"...i got that one covered.

[JamesRich]

Hey man.

 

I lived up in Northern Alberta where it got to -54C a couple of times and worse with windchill and I can tell you this is what I did.

 

First things first, Tick these off your list if you have them and acquire them if you do not.

 

- Block heater

- Battery Blanket

- Transmission Pan heater pad

- Power steering heating pad.

- Front Grill wind block

 

With those, and use either 0 or 5 weight oil for the worst of the year and you'll be running like a top,

 

The power steering one is a choice but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Got to love that high pitch whine you hear as you pump tries to force that cold oil thru. It's just screaming for warmth.

 

Also I got to see what diff oil looks like on one of the coldest days when wwe removed a diff cover outside without draining it. It just sat there like an ice cube . Pretty interesting. Good luck with the cold.

Now I see why my ancestors moved here from Nova Scotia! I don't think it's ever gone below 0 here. The coldest I remember is 15F and that's plenty cold enough for me!

James

[Simon]

I assume it doesn't do that when the truck is warmed up? My first WD21 did that in the winter months upon cold startup on cold mornings, and it turns out it was the O2 sensor. The CEL came on shortly thereafter, and the code was for the O2 so I changed it out, and it never stalled on me again. I couldn't tell you why that worked, as the O2 sensor shouldn't have anything to do with how the truck runs in open loop, but it worked for me.

[NWT87PATHY]

Im up in the high Arctic were its between -35C and -50C from october until april . All you need is a Belly Tarp, Block Heater, Oil pan heater, 5w-30 synthetic and a Synthetic GL-4 gearbox oil. Also a 1050 CCA battery helps, so half the time i don't need to plugin.

 

All your troubles are because your not warming your Pathfinder up.

[Towncivilian]

0W-30 oil will flow better at extreme cold temperatures due to a higher viscosity index. Synthetic fluids in the transmission, differential(s), and power steering will also provide better cold weather performance and lowered operating temperatures.