tmoore4512 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hey guys, ran into an issue with my 95 in the past 2 weeks. The dang battery kept discharging and would have to be jump started every morning. Every time I would connect the cables I would hear an audible CLICK coming the right fender well where the two black and blue relays are. (Intermittent and park neutral). For some reason these relays are staying in the OPEN position when the key is off, and draining the battery... I have done some searching and am coming up empty. The FSB lists the relays in the component location sectionn but I am unable to determine why they would stay on when theoretically with the key off there should be no power getting to them... Any ideas? (I just replaced the battery, and when I connect the ground I hear the same click. No discharge issue with the relays removed.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hey guys, ran into an issue with my 95 in the past 2 weeks. The dang battery kept discharging and would have to be jump started every morning. Every time I would connect the cables I would hear an audible CLICK coming the right fender well where the two black and blue relays are. (Intermittent and park neutral). For some reason these relays are staying in the OPEN position when the key is off, and draining the battery... I have done some searching and am coming up empty. The FSB lists the relays in the component location sectionn but I am unable to determine why they would stay on when theoretically with the key off there should be no power getting to them... Any ideas? (I just replaced the battery, and when I connect the ground I hear the same click. No discharge issue with the relays removed.) I think it's obvious that you need to replace the relay. Relays have some electrical grease inside of them to prevent corrosion and to assist in proper function. Over time, this grease may dry out or whatever may happen. Relays can go bad and stop working just like switches inside the car. Go get a relay from a junkyard or get one from the dealer if you have $8 or so to spare. What the relay does is allow power to the starter. I'm a little fuzzy on how current going to the starter not being used would drain your battery. The click when you connect the battery is convincing enough, but your battery was probably bad. When you drain a battery once, you damage it. You can recharge it, but the cranking amps will be very limited. From then on, you will probably often need the charger even if nothing is sapping power. If you want to be 100% sure that it's the relay before taking a trip to the JY or the dealer, then take it apart for inspection. Take it out of the bay where it's plugged in. Take the cap off and see how well the terminals slide back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I think it's obvious that you need to replace the relay. Relays have some electrical grease inside of them to prevent corrosion and to assist in proper function. Over time, this grease may dry out or whatever may happen. Relays can go bad and stop working just like switches inside the car. Go get a relay from a junkyard or get one from the dealer if you have $8 or so to spare. What the relay does is allow power to the starter. I'm a little fuzzy on how current going to the starter not being used would drain your battery. The click when you connect the battery is convincing enough, but your battery was probably bad. When you drain a battery once, you damage it. You can recharge it, but the cranking amps will be very limited. From then on, you will probably often need the charger even if nothing is sapping power. If you want to be 100% sure that it's the relay before taking a trip to the JY or the dealer, then take it apart for inspection. Take it out of the bay where it's plugged in. Take the cap off and see how well the terminals slide back and forth. I'm not sold on this. The relay's still clicking, right? If it's still clicking then it's what's triggering it that's the problem. Also I've never opened an automotive relay, but all the others I've torn into (random electronics) were assembled entirely dry. I'm also not sold on the battery damage. It's not good for it, sure, but it's not like you'll kill it by draining it once or twice. I drained my battery to the point where the dash lights barely even came on, and after a recharge (and a little fiddling with some confused sensors) it fires up without issue. (It was a little slow this morning, but then, it was 18F last night.) Gotta figure out why they're getting power. Maybe something's sticking in the ignition? Pull out the voltmeter and check for voltage at the fuse block, then at the relays... something's stuck on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Thanks for the input guys. I have been inside the relays and they both function as they should with voltage applied (outside of vehicle in a controlled environment). In the process of tracking down the "leak." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) Ignition switch maybe? Try unplugging your distributor and see if the relays click off when you do. Edited January 14, 2012 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Thanks for the input guys. I have been inside the relays and they both function as they should with voltage applied (outside of vehicle in a controlled environment). In the process of tracking down the "leak." You may have a dodgy earth connection from the relays, a broken wire somewhere or loose plug connection. Best you get voltage meter and start tracking from the relay back. Disconnect the source (feed) wire from the relay and track from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Okay... NOT a faulty relay. But because I wanted to cover all bases I went ahead and pulled it despite my experience with problems of these sorts...I Checked on the bench in a controlled environment as mentioned before, and put it into a donor vehicle for S&G and vice versa.... problem persists with either relay (one of which is new.) New issue arises... Now I have no turn signals... hazards worked for a short time, and then stopped working as well. Thing is, when you initiate a left of right turn signal you can hear the flasher module buzzing as if its only getting LOW voltage... Had an extra flasher module in the tool box (new in box) and swapped it out, same scenario... Came inside since I could no longer feel my hands...or feet...or nose... Tomorrow I will start chasing voltage with a meter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I'm not to swift with electrical issues but yes, I'd start tracking voltage with a meter. Hope it warms up some; worked up a sweat today changing a timing belt... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 How's the battery at this point? If it's still discharging itself, that would explain the hazards/signals. Still sounds like an ignition switch issue to me. Maybe there's a (stuck) relay for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Okay, still no luck as of yet. Have been chasing a ghost it seems, almost makes me wonder if I have a corroded or bad connection somewhere that I cannot see (maybe under the carpet etc.) Battery has been holding a charge, mainly because I have been disconnecting the ground lead when I am not driving it. With the ignition off I am getting 12.4 volts on the coil (control) side of the relay. Which theoretically it SHOULD be zero voltage there with the key off. Chased the wire to the fuse panel, and it has zero voltage there, with the key off... So as I am sitting here, scratching my head...(I hold electronics/low voltage and three phase licenses).... and I am feeling pretty retarded at this point... Voltage doesn't just disappear...then reappear... On another note, what is the "combination meter" listed in the FSP in regards to the turn signals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Time to start unplugging everything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I believe you are correct sir... I am actually thinking of pulling the front seats and peeling back the carpet as that is where the majority of the harness should be.... may have to do some solder work to fix it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Have you pulled each fuse out one at a time to see if any stops the power draw? As for the buzzing blinkers, a bad hazard light switch can cause that if it wasn't just a dead battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Have you pulled each fuse out one at a time to see if any stops the power draw? As for the buzzing blinkers, a bad hazard light switch can cause that if it wasn't just a dead battery. I think this is really plausible. Those switches are really important. If you take your hazard switch out, you don't have blinkers. Your blinkers just wont work. The switch completes the circuit which I think is good and bad. There have been a good number of times I've been waiting to get onto a main road and I didn't even realize I didn't have working blinkers because I had taken my dash apart the night before. He said he replaced it though. You said "new in box", was it a Nissan part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Kingman- Great idea. I am guilty of over thinking everything. Must be the "educated B" in my head... When I get off shift tonight I will do just that. It still does not explain phantom power...and no, I do not have a stereo (or even a radio that works for that matter) in my truck... So no capacitor to feedback through...if that makes sense... The hazard light switch has not been replaced. I did however check it out of the vehicle and it works as it should, with low resistance etc. The part that I replaced was the flasher module, under the dash. I had a EP34 replacement flasher in my tool box, new in package. When I get off, I intend on finding the issue and fixing it, weather permitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 The part that I replaced was the flasher module, under the dash. I had a EP34 replacement flasher in my tool box, new in package. Sorry, I misread the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 No worries bro... I am seriously considering something off the wall crazy at this point.... Since I already plan on replacing the motor, and am not really interested in putting a weak motor BACK in... And the motor option that I would want to go with doesn't support the speedo cluster anyway... How about just stripping the truck of all wiring and putting only what is needed back in....with a custom dash... Maybe its just an angry rant... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I know what you mean... my locks are bad enough in the cold that I've considered just gutting the wiring and re-rigging it without the timers and whatnot. Sounds like you've pretty much got it nailed down, though. The fuse box is off, but power's getting to the relay. So pull the dash, trace the wire, there's got to be something amiss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 Okay...problem solved. A check of the complete (under hood/dash) harness revealed that a number of connecters in reference to the starting system were badly corroded and when repaired fixed the intermittent relay chattering issue.... Turns out a second issue was found in reference to the Taurus electric fan, and its corresponding wiring.... I know, I know your wondering WTF does that have to do with the drainage issue and mind of its own etc... I have a temperature controlled relay setup that will turn the fan on when the temp meets the preset level....After I put the dash back in and started putting everything else back together I discovered that the thermostat system was fluttering the relay included in the wiring kit for the fan... A check of that harness revealed more corroded connections and once fixed, no more chatter....no more drainage...no more heart ache... Oh, and cleaning up the connections also fixed the turn signal/hazard issue... Thanks for the help guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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