unccpathfinder Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Hmmm I'll give it a try .... better then selling my rig for scrap... Oh and the thing overheated and started pouring white smoke. It burns through a half a radiator tank in 30 mins O: And I took of the oil cap and its got some nasty peanut butter stuff in there. Tool-wise I think I might be set except for a torque wrench. Ive got the usual dad garage stuff like socket sets wrenches screwdrivers... no power tools though, will that be a problem? Just out of curiosity, with my skill level how long do you think this will take? And do these books cover timing belt waterpump ect. ? specialty tools you may need would be a harmonic balancer puller which you can rent from most parts stores...you want the bolt type not a jaw puller type...and i think its a 10MM alan for hte head bolts...and a timing light to set the timing...i have the cheapest timing light you can get I'd say your first time with minimal experience it would take you about 30-40 hours...wehn i did mine i did it with an ex gf's dad and we did it in about 25 hrs total...i don't cruise the forums that much anymore but if you PM me I can give you my email and if you have some issues i can try to help that way I think the hardest part will be getting the crank pulley off/back on. Impact gun makes that easy. to get the crank bolt loose i ususally use a 1/2" Drive breaker bar and hit it with a 3lb hammer (works like an impact gun) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 Meh i'm just taking it to the mechanic I don't want to mess with it and its a guy I can trust. Plus he'll be able to find underline problems that I would probably carelessly dismiss. I've got some plans for this truck though, I already helped a buddy of mine weld some major rust problems on it. Under the rear passenger seats I had absolutely no sheet metal there I ended up cutting out a hole that you could stand through on it hahahaha. And I paid a guy to do some reinforcement on the frame so the only rust problem I can visibly see is on the rocker panels and I found some repair kits for those suckers on here My goals to maybe give it a lift, touch up some paint and slap some huge tires on this bitch and I'm good to go, assuming that I don't have anymore engine problems haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milos Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Guys, how this swap looks like? It is a motor TD27T, turbo Diesel de frontier 2000 (43 km per gallon). They also changed the transmission (of course). Is this a good solution? It looks very nice outside as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwd5021 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 ^ I want that ^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heloflyboy Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I want that too. When can you send me one? LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 x2, usally not needed unless one breaks while removing. Did a 3.8 toures and the head bolts were 200 bucks so needless to say they never were changed and the motor was still going strong 50k later when th car was finally junked. The reason it's recommended is that the bolts are (torque to yield bolts) The bolts are designed to stretch to apply the torque required for the application. The bolts are deisgned to be a one time use only bolt since once there stretch they never return back to there factory length and when re used will not apply the same pressure as before. Now say that i have seen alot of people reuse the bolts with no problem but there is a much higher chance of the bolt not applying the needed pressure and also have a higher chance for the bolt to break in the block. I know how hard it is to get a broken bolt out of the head so i will never reuse those kinds of bolts. Here is some info on the bolts. http://freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html http://www.nvmobileautoservice.com/blog/2011/01/14/Why-should-torque-to-yield-headbolts-not-be-re-used.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 My goals to maybe give it a lift, touch up some paint and slap some huge tires on this bitch and I'm good to go, assuming that I don't have anymore engine problems haha. Get ready to beef up your IFS... Guys, how this swap looks like? It is a motor TD27T, turbo Diesel de frontier 2000 (43 km per gallon). They also changed the transmission (of course). Sweet. I would love to get my hands on one of those... The bolts are deisgned to be a one time use only bolt since once there stretch they never return back to there factory length and when re used will not apply the same pressure as before. Now say that i have seen alot of people reuse the bolts with no problem but there is a much higher chance of the bolt not applying the needed pressure and also have a higher chance for the bolt to break in the block. I know how hard it is to get a broken bolt out of the head so i will never reuse those kinds of bolts. Amen to what you said. Been there a time or two, fixing a problem that could have been prevented if someone would have simply done it right and replaced the dang bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) The reason it's recommended is that the bolts are (torque to yield bolts) The bolts are designed to stretch to apply the torque required for the application. The bolts are deisgned to be a one time use only bolt since once there stretch they never return back to there factory length and when re used will not apply the same pressure as before. Now say that i have seen alot of people reuse the bolts with no problem but there is a much higher chance of the bolt not applying the needed pressure and also have a higher chance for the bolt to break in the block. I know how hard it is to get a broken bolt out of the head so i will never reuse those kinds of bolts. Here is some info on the bolts. http://freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html http://www.nvmobileautoservice.com/blog/2011/01/14/Why-should-torque-to-yield-headbolts-not-be-re-used.aspx Ok, but the VG30E doesn't use torque-to-yield bolts, right? The length specs are in the FSM so you can check to see if they've stretched before you re-use them too. Edited January 14, 2012 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
englishjim Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Dan, Im new to the Nissan world and just stripped the top end off my VG30, its a lot easier than you think. You should do it yourself and if anything goes wrong you can go to the mechanic. IF you do it yourself you could take the money you have saved and invest in the porting of the heads, new cams/reground cams and cold air intake - you may have change left over for headers(hopefully). I even have a set of gaskets you can have, if I can find them. The advantages are better mileage and more power. Everyone here is super helpfull and can keep you pointed in the right direction. Two things that saved me were photographing everything I did and keeping all the bolts pierced through cardboard in order with instructions I wrote on each piece. All the best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Ok, but the VG30E doesn't use torque-to-yield bolts, right? The length specs are in the FSM so you can check to see if they've stretched before you re-use them too. I've been thru my fsm and Haynes and none say they are torque to yield nor do they say replace...if the head bolt has plasticaly deformed more than likely it will never reach final torque and break...this being said if you do break one it sucks but more times likely than not its the cleanest threads on the vehicle and you can back the broken bolt out with ease unless it bottomed out or is cross threaded or has dirty threads Just looked at the 94 manual and no they aren't torque to plastic deformation...the only warnings are not rotating the cams/crank separately and to ensure that each bolt has a washer...nothing about replacing bolts...also mentioned not to use torques but angular tightening since variations in torques are all dependant on the mating surfaces and whether or not they r wet lubed, dry lubed...etc If in doubt follow the fsm's details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Also, for what its worth, you wouldn't have to change axles... Drive shafts probably, but not axles. Blazers are driver side drop front just like our pathfinders. A good 4.3 with a carb rather than the fuel injected stuff, solid slushbox 350 turbo, or 700r4, with a np231 t case and you would be set... some assembly required... haha Did you get your truck fixed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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