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How long did you go on your timing belt?


HitMan
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So I was wondering how many miles people have gone on their original timing belt. I know Nissan suggests it to be changed every 100k, but i know that's not always the case. My '04 is at 106k with the original still. I had my '96 changed at 110k and am almost at the 200k mark again so it looks like i need to do them both at the same time. Anyone gone any further? Timing belts are such a pain to replace so I might just pay to have it done.

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Well your 04 pathfinder is the VQ35, so it has a timing chain not a belt. So you'll only be doing 1.

 

Good to know. I actually just got it, so I'm still learning the differences between the two

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So I was wondering how many miles people have gone on their original timing belt. I know Nissan suggests it to be changed every 100k, but i know that's not always the case. My '04 is at 106k with the original still. I had my '96 changed at 110k and am almost at the 200k mark again so it looks like i need to do them both at the same time. Anyone gone any further? Timing belts are such a pain to replace so I might just pay to have it done.

 

No, they're not a pain in the ass, I could go on for a while why the timing belts are better.

Timing belts run quiet, don't need an oil bath or guides, and when you have to replace them the engine needed those new parts anyway. The only real disadvantage to a timing belt is sometimes they can skip a tooth or two while starting the engine but that is if you don't tension it correctly.

 

It's a misconception that chains do not have to be replaced. A timing chain is rated for maybe 200k miles but the nylon guides wear out much sooner and you have to do the entire timing chain job. The only chains that do seem to last forever are the ones found in OHV engines where the chain is just so short. The OHV design doesn't get you as much top end power though and has a much lower RPM limit.

 

:deadhorse:

Edited by Tungsten
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Nissan uses rubber guides that don't fail often. My L20 is well over 400K and the timing chain is fairly solid as well as the guides and there are @!*% loads of them running around same as mine. Funny, you can run an L-series to 8K+ and not harm it the slightest bit. Also a built 4-cylinder NA L-series will put down more power than a VG, and last longer. It's an OHV engine.

 

Volkswagens do use nylon guides, which is why they have serious issues.

 

Belts are cheaper. This is why most companies went to them, not because they're any better.

Edited by Kingman
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Nissan uses rubber guides that don't fail often. My L20 is well over 400K and the timing chain is fairly solid as well as the guides and there are @!*% loads of them running around same as mine. Funny, you can run an L-series to 8K+ and not harm it the slightest bit. Also a built 4-cylinder NA L-series will put down more power than a VG, and last longer. It's an OHV engine.

 

Volkswagens do use nylon guides, which is why they have serious issues.

 

Belts are cheaper. This is why most companies went to them, not because they're any better.

 

I doubt you will get a NA 4 banger to make as much torque as a NA VG from the same time period, especially at the low end. Newer Nissan Maximas use nylon guides, not rubber, so they fail. A comparable chain driven V6 OHV still will not rev as high as a comparable SOHC engine with a belt. You can probably get away with running high RPMs on any Japan made 4 banger doesn't matter if it's a belt or chain because of their lower rotating mass.

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I doubt you will get a NA 4 banger to make as much torque as a NA VG from the same time period, especially at the low end. Newer Nissan Maximas use nylon guides, not rubber, so they fail. A comparable chain driven V6 OHV still will not rev as high as a comparable SOHC engine with a belt. You can probably get away with running high RPMs on any Japan made 4 banger doesn't matter if it's a belt or chain because of their lower rotating mass.

 

I'm sorry to hear they put nylon guides in the newer engines. Sad to see them go from bomb-proof to will need maintenance. Why in the hell would they do that?

 

They'll put down 220-250HP if done right from a 2.0L or 2.2L - the parts I have for this motor will put it around there. It'll cost a hell of a lot more to push that through an NA VG, look up Butter on z31performance and see the multi-thousands he's put into his NA to get 222HP. At the moment that's one of the highest-powered NAs on there. From a 3.0L engine! The variable venturi SU carbs you can put on an L-series make low-end torque astronomically amazing for a small engine, much more responsive, and it easily out-torques the VGs I've driven any day. They are made for low-end punch. Can you accelerate from 900RPM (without bogging, pinging, or struggling) in 4th gear at 20-25MPH while hauling 2,400LBS of concrete in your Pathfinder? I sure never could with mine.

 

The timing belt on my Z looked like it might be original at 120K miles. There wasn't much left of it and I'm surprised it didn't snap or skip at all. Helluva lucky chance there.

Edited by Kingman
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I'm sorry to hear they put nylon guides in the newer engines. Sad to see them go from bomb-proof to will need maintenance. Why in the hell would they do that?

 

They'll put down 220-250HP if done right from a 2.0L or 2.2L - the parts I have for this motor will put it around there. It'll cost a hell of a lot more to push that through an NA VG, look up Butter on z31performance and see the multi-thousands he's put into his NA to get 222HP. At the moment that's one of the highest-powered NAs on there. From a 3.0L engine! The variable venturi SU carbs you can put on an L-series make low-end torque astronomically amazing for a small engine, much more responsive, and it easily out-torques the VGs I've driven any day. They are made for low-end punch. Can you accelerate from 900RPM (without bogging, pinging, or struggling) in 4th gear at 20-25MPH while hauling 2,400LBS of concrete in your Pathfinder? I sure never could with mine.

 

The timing belt on my Z looked like it might be original at 120K miles. There wasn't much left of it and I'm surprised it didn't snap or skip at all. Helluva lucky chance there.

 

On that note, don't want to jack the thread right now but you can get 250 hp from a N/A VG34E build. It will haul serious ass and still get great fuel economy to boot. Overall, it's not that costly either.

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The belt on my 01 quest VG33 broke at 118k, wifes van I dont drive it so I don't pay atention to the mileage. Didn't bend any valves either.

James

 

Wonder what outside influence makes the belt life vary, I replaced the timing belt on a '95 Villager at 142K and it was in pretty decent shape. It was the original and 33K miles overdue, yet yours snapped at 118K :blink:

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The belt on my 01 quest VG33 broke at 118k, wifes van I dont drive it so I don't pay atention to the mileage. Didn't bend any valves either.

James

 

What gives? I had the timing jump on my belt AND had the replacement snap in half ( my own fault for not replacing the tensioner pulley) with out eating any valves on my VG33E.

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If you're mechanically competent and have the FSM handy it should take you around 6 hours (working at a reasonable pace) unless you find something else wrong (buy all parts for the job ahead of time).

 

My record is 3 hours but I've done it a few times and it was a belt only replacement.

Edited by adamzan
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I don't have any personal input since I just bought my HB about 4k miles ago, and the owner replaced it right before I got it.

Buttt, a few weeks ago when I was on 4x4parts.com forums, someone made a thread about how many miles they had on their Nissans. Man, some of those trucks get up well above the 500k mark. It's actually amazing.

And on top of that, there were quite a few guys who said things like "300k on the original vg30 and stock timing belt" and im like...WTFFFFF. THAT'S HOW YOU fskc @!*% UP

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Wonder what outside influence makes the belt life vary, I replaced the timing belt on a '95 Villager at 142K and it was in pretty decent shape. It was the original and 33K miles overdue, yet yours snapped at 118K :blink:

 

driving habits

weather temperatures (very low and very high).

too much tension from tensioner.

moisture. (ambiant air and muddin)

snow salt.

made by man.

Edited by Alkorahil
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driving habits

weather temperatures (very low and very high).

too much tension from tensioner.

moisture. (ambiant air and muddin)

snow salt.

made by man.

 

The climate probably has the biggest wear and tear effect on anything and any vehicle. Northern west coast climates are much easier on vehicles than northern east coast climates are.

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  • 7 months later...

I agree weather permitting I live in Iowa and winters can be rough. My 95 pathfinder has got 140,000 miles on the original timing belt. Crossing my fingers and knocking on wood.Plan to replace ASAP just got pathy In May 2012.

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