Catastrophic A/T failure

[nunya]

From what I understand through silverton (who ain't just some random dork talking out his azz). It's a take out the old-bolt in the new type situation.

[Kingman]

are the Xterra ones really that good? Aren't they just the exact same transmission but without the overheating/self-destruction issue?

Personally, I think automatics were crap until like..last year.

 

Actually the newer they are the crappier. They build 'em cheap to cut costs, fskc the guy that has to replace it. Doesn't matter to them. Old C4s, C6s, L3Ns, Torqueflight 727s, 4L60Es/80Es, etc last forever.

 

Subaru used the same RE4 as the Pathfinders in the SVX and they too have the same issue with overheating and failing. Mazda MPVs as well. Poor quality parts coming apart and clogging the coolers. It's not a Pathfinder-only problem. It's an RE4 problem but the cooler sure doesn't help anything.

 

When MY1PATH and I were looking for an X tranny for his Pathfinder, the part numbers ended up being the same between the two versions (Pathfinder and X) because they superseded the part number. It's almost like unless you know exactly what it came out of there's no way to tell. Side by side the two looked identical.

Edited November 10, 2011 by Kingman

[Precise1]

Old C4s, C6s, L3Ns, Torqueflight 727s, 4L60Es/80Es, etc last forever.

The destruction of the Torqueflight in my 1977 Fury was the end of of it's life so I can't really agree with you.

 

B

[silverton]

the only way to externally tell the difference between the WD21 automatic, and the WD22 automatic, is by a stamped tin tag and the vent location. IIRC, the tag is on the passenger side and it's stamped with the model code, and it has enough information on it that you can tell exactly what year it came out of by cross referencing the FSM. The vent on the WD21 is more toward the bell housing, whereas the vent on the WD22 is near the tail shaft. If you get a transmission out of a supercharged model (like I have) you need to get the flex plate. The torque converter bolts do NOT line up, that is the only difference.

 

Aside from the vent, the N/A WD22 transmission is a DIRECT bolt in, plug the @!*% in, and GO!

 

A five speed is great for descents. An automatic is KING at crawling over obstacles. I can stick my big toe on the throttle and creeeeeeeepppppp over whatever. That's not possible with a 5 speed.

[1994SEV6]

 

A five speed is great for descents. An automatic is KING at crawling over obstacles. I can stick my big toe on the throttle and creeeeeeeepppppp over whatever. That's not possible with a 5 speed.

 

I know the basics of a manual, and I know how to drive them, but I'm no expert. I'm only 17 and the only thing I've driven with a stick is my brother's '96 Tacoma. This may sound stupid, but can't you just not press as hard on the gas pedal and go slower? I'm guessing the answer is that the engine will stall, but if you put it in first gear and let off the gas, doesn't it just idle because it is locked with the engine?

[adamzan]

In 4lo you'd be hard pressed to stall it in 1st gear.

[sewebster]

I have no experience crawling with a manual, but here's how I see it.

 

With a manual there is a minimum speed you need to be going before you stall, even in 1st/4 lo, unless you slip the clutch. But the problem is that at this low speed you won't have much power, since the engine doesn't produce much power/torque at low rpm. So I guess you drive slowly into a rock and then you start to slow down even more because of the resistance of the rock and you hit the gas, but nothing happens because you don't have the power to climb the rock, then you either stall or let off the gas and hit the clutch.

 

With an auto you have a torque converter, so you can slip that as much as you want basically. So you run into the rock, then just keep pushing down the throttle until your engine is spinning fast enough to give you the power to climb up it.

 

I have a manual and like it, and there is more to offroading than the above, but in this scenario an auto seems better.

[silverton]

I know the basics of a manual, and I know how to drive them, but I'm no expert. I'm only 17 and the only thing I've driven with a stick is my brother's '96 Tacoma. This may sound stupid, but can't you just not press as hard on the gas pedal and go slower? I'm guessing the answer is that the engine will stall, but if you put it in first gear and let off the gas, doesn't it just idle because it is locked with the engine?

 

The only thing that makes a five speed better than an automatic off road, is the lower gear ratios.

 

1st gear in a manual (4X4 WD21) is 4.061. Multiply that by 2 (because 4lo is 2:1 in the transfer case) and then multiply it by the 4.375 ratio of the differentials. you get 35.53375:1

 

1st gear in an automatic (4X4 WD21) is 3.027. Multiply that by 2, and then again by the automatics differential ratio of 4.625 and you get 27.99975:1

 

As you can see, the five speed has a better crawl ratio, the higher the number the slower the truck is going to go, but the more torque that is going to be applied at a certain, lower, rpm.

 

I'm sure you've seen videos of toyotas and etc with transfer case doublers that bring there crawl ratio up over 100:1. and they can set it in first gear, let the clutch out, climb out of the truck, and just watch it crawl up whatever is in front of them, the torque from the ratio being so low keeps the truck from stalling.

 

But the thing I like about automatics, and my truck would have a lot more dents and broken lights if I had a manual, is that if I come up on an obstacle, and I can't make it over right away, I just keep applying throttle until I crrraaawwwwwlllll over it. If it were a five speed, I'd have to load the clutch up, and the truck would lurch forward slipping off of whatever I'm on, and into a tree. Sorry for the long post, just hope I'm informing!

 

In 4lo you'd be hard pressed to stall it in 1st gear.

 

A wall. lol!

Edited November 12, 2011 by silverton