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A/T help


Kieran
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I have been having multiple problems with my 91 D21 Terrano/Pathfinder. Managed to narrow it down to a MAF clean and TPS replacement. This fixed the problems I had with power cutting and stalling. I thought all was good until I took it off road for the first time since fixing it. Drove the 30kms out to where I was going fine and then managed to get myself stuck in hard sand, normally not an issue but it turns out the transfer case was not selecting 4HI or 4LO, although the dash lights were suggesting otherwise. As A/T's are out of my depth I took it to a place to get diagnosed. The reckoned that the AT was on its way out and this was affecting the transfer case. Purchased a new AT and transfer case and thats to going to university in another city it has been parked in a garage all year. So this brings me to my problem. Nobody I knows has enough skill/experience to replace the AT due to it being much more difficult then just dropping it out and swapping it over. Does anyone here have any idea how much it generally costs to get the AT replaced by a mechanic? or any instructions on how to make it easier to swap out myself?

 

On an unrelated thing, anyone know what the Sports/Touring switch does? Its from japanese model but I cant seem to find any information (in English) that helps.

 

Thanks,

KEZ

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Sports/touring? I've got one labelled "sport/comfort," I suspect it's the same deal, just a different market/version. It alters the shocks to make it ride harder or softer.. You can test it by putting it in position (pretty sure the ignition has to be on), and rocking the truck from a corner. It should be harder to rock on the 'sport' setting.

 

My understanding is that you can't really pull the transmission without also removing the engine. I could be wrong. If you don't have/can't borrow an engine hoist, your best bet is probably going through a mechanic. You have the parts already, so most of the cost will be labor; you could call around to different shops and see what they'll quote you on it. I suspect, however, that the transmission isn't the issue.

 

Does it have the stock automatic hubs? They can fail to engage. If the hubs aren't hooking up, the transfer case can spin the front driveline and diff all it wants without spinning the front wheels. You might be able to fix it by swapping in a set of manual hubs, which shouldn't set you back nearly as far as a trans install. I guess the transfer case could be the issue, but I've never heard of one failing.

 

If it drives around fine in 2H, and spins the rear wheels when stuck, it's probably the hubs. I don't think the transmission is the issue. Auto trans issues are common on WDs but usually they take the form of reverse not working, other gears slipping, and finally straight up refusing to move. If it's still driving the rear wheels fine, look at the hubs before tearing into the transmission.

 

(Keep in mind I could be wrong too, I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as many of the guys on here, I just lurk around here too much. :D)

 

Good luck. :)

Edited by Slartibartfast
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I really don't think your transmission is going out at all.

 

My bet would be the Auto hubs mine did the same thing when they went out and i replaced them with manual hubs and never had a problem since.

 

Now a quick way to test to see if your transfer case is working is to put it in 4lo and drive around slowly your engine will rev quick while moving slower you will be able to tell the difference.

 

If thats working then your auto hubs probally aren't locking.

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Also the sport/ comfort(touring) switch changes the shock firmness most of the pathfinder that had it stock have probally had it replaced with regular shocks by now unless it was serviced at a dealer.

 

To check look at your front shocks and see if there is a electrical plug going to the top of it.

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If you stuck it before putting it in 4wdrive that could have been your problem. with the auto hubs it takes a few feet for them to engage when they're working properly.

also I wouldn't recommend driving around in low range on a hard surface

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If you stuck it before putting it in 4wdrive that could have been your problem. with the auto hubs it takes a few feet for them to engage when they're working properly.

also I wouldn't recommend driving around in low range on a hard surface

 

Very true the horrible down fall of Auto Hubs. If your on a icy hill and put it on 4wd to get up the hubs will not engage.

 

Also i hope if people are on this forum they know not to use 4lo on hard surface like concrete it should be a given.

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stuck in hard sand, normally not an issue but it turns out the transfer case was not selecting 4HI or 4LO, although the dash lights were suggesting otherwise. As A/T's are out of my depth I took it to a place to get diagnosed. The reckoned that the AT was on its way out and this was affecting the transfer case. Purchased a new AT and transfer case and thats to going to university in another city it has been parked in a garage all year. So this brings me to my problem. Nobody I knows has enough skill/experience to replace the AT due to it being much more difficult then just dropping it out and swapping it over.

 

I agree that this doesn't sound like a transfer case/tranny issue. but a hub issue. Assuming we are wrong, changing an automatic tranny is not much harder than a manual tranny and there are several write ups here that will walk you through it. That said, you do need a garage or shop with plenty of tools and jacks to make it easier...

 

My understanding is that you can't really pull the transmission without also removing the engine. I could be wrong.

You are wrong, I have done it myself. I believe it is harder to pull the motor without at least moving the tranny, but I have not done this task. :shrug:

 

B

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Very true the horrible down fall of Auto Hubs. If your on a icy hill and put it on 4wd to get up the hubs will not engage.

 

This isn't really true though. What will happen is your rear wheels will spin for a revolution or so before the autohubs engage, then you will be in 4wd. Now, whether or not you will make up it the hill I don't know, but the hubs should engage.

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Its now (by now I mean last time I drove it a few months ago) slipping once I get to about 90km/h (in 2wd of course) so maybe that O/D has gone or is going??

 

It was in 4Lo, so i thought, before getting stuck which is what really confused me. If i had it in 2wd and got stuck I would have deserved to dig the damn thing out, it was in a place I had visited many times before without having a problem :)

 

Other then putting into 4LO, is there any way to test the hubs? Also have been looking at getting manual hubs, but have heard mixed things about both, can someone give me pros/cons for both?

 

I have plenty of tools etc at home and have replaced a few gearboxes on my older manuals, but never a 4WD. Just unsure about doing it myself, as is the person I turn to when things are out of my depth. Was told that to remove the gearbox the front suspension needed to be removed? is that right? The service manual says only the torsion bars need to be moved out of the way. I might just take it to a shop and see what they say.

 

As for the sports/touring, had a look and shocks have been replaced so doesn't do anything. I think maybe I should have stuck with road cars :wacko: , but they just aren't as fun.

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Manual hubs are better in all ways except that you have to get out to engage and disengage them :)

 

You can "test" the auto hubs in two ways. One is to jack up the front of the vehicle (in 2wd) and then turn the front driveshaft by hand (it will spin since you are in 2wd). The auto hubs should engage after a rotation or two (at least one of them since you have an open diff presumably). I'm not sure, but it's possible that they might lock under no load like this and slip in reality.

 

You can also dismantle the auto hubs and inspect them (this is pretty easy). You might easily notice if there are broken bits inside, or you can check in the FSM for the wear limits etc.

 

I don't think there's anything too special about removing the transmission. The t-bars aren't that big of a deal, though some people really don't like to touch them. The transmission is pretty big and with the t-case attached it's heavy and poorly balanced, so some reasonable jacking system is a good idea. You also have to remove the shifters of course. Instructions in the FSM.

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This isn't really true though. What will happen is your rear wheels will spin for a revolution or so before the autohubs engage, then you will be in 4wd. Now, whether or not you will make up it the hill I don't know, but the hubs should engage.

 

I've found that to not be true at all.

 

The auto hubs require forward momentum once you put it in 4wd for them to engage.

 

If your stuck on a icy hill and not able to gain traction( i.e. stuck or sliding backwards some) if you put it in 4wd your front wheels will never be able to lock unless your able to move forward some where as manual hubs are ready to go.

 

It says in the owners manual it can take up to 3 ft for the front auto hubs to engage.

 

For a quick example i can take my wife's bone stock wd21 pathfinder with auto hubs on the lift and put it in 4wd the front wheels wont spin unless i rotate the front wheel forward and it will engage.

Edited by wd21overland
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Then something is wrong with your hubs. There have been many times where I have been stuck and i just pop it into 4hi and give it a tiny bit of gas to make the drivetrain spin and you can feel the hubs clunk into the locked position and I climb right out. I try and lock them before I need 4wd but you know there is always that predicament you sometimes find yourself in lol.

 

My old hubs were a pain to lock in but that is because the brake plates were worn out (the two pieces that force the hub to lock) and they would just slip. I've put mine on jack stands and started it, put it in 4wd and the rear tires start moving and in 1 rotation the fronts start to move.

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You are wrong, I have done it myself. I believe it is harder to pull the motor without at least moving the tranny, but I have not done this task.

 

Good to know. :) Sorry for any confusion.

 

I've engaged auto hubs from a dead stop too, though they didn't engage until the rears had spun for a moment. (I'd gotten it stuck on an icy incline.)

 

Does sound like the trans is getting iffy, though.

Edited by Slartibartfast
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