Pbpredator Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 What year Z? and what trim? what do i ask for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Nissan's solution to the problem was the M10x1.25 VG33 studs... presumably for a reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Nissan's solution to the problem was the M10x1.25 VG33 studs... presumably for a reason. I thought the solution was the twin turbo studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 I thought you said they were 8M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 The Z studs are 8 mm and just thread right in, no ability required. do you mean a 300zx or a 350z? also which year should i ask for the studs in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 do you mean a 300zx or a 350z? also which year should i ask for the studs in? Unfortunately I am not sure. You might try searching around on the board to see if you can find that info, or perhaps someone else will post here. Not the new 350/370Z, presumably an older one with a VG engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Here were the prices the last time I checked. These are for the upgraded parts (the Z stuff): 14037-V5005 Lock Washer for manifold studs - $1.88 each 14039-W1500 Nuts for manifold studs - 0.65 each 14065-V5004 Manifold Studs - $3.21 each This was another solution I noted from the forums when I was looking into fixing my passenger side: 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm (6) metric grade 5 8mm lock washers (12) metric grade 5 4X4parts also sells the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Omg I love you... you wouldn't happen to have a link to the kit would you? Its for the passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 (edited) https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/exhaust-manifold-bolt-nut-washer-kit-p-4192.html kit is per side. Edited September 27, 2011 by Steve_RI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 I am only doing one side for now so 1 is good for me... wow pretty expensive in total for shipping and everything -_- 45$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 I know I must sound like a whiny dueche >< Haha but thanks again to everyone who has helped... went ahead and ordered those... hopefully they will be here before the weekend so I can get em in. Now on to my next problem that broken stud in the head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Yeah. I mean, you could buy some redi rod and cut them yourself, Or you could just get some bolts, but, caveat emptor... Oh Hell No and Oh Hell Yes!! Ok so this is the only stud that is the same size and length (the one on the left) but the lengths of the threads are different... does this matter? The thread engagenment in the head does matter in aluminum, I can look up the lengths once I get home and I know I posted them in a thread here. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 I know I must sound like a whiny dueche > Damn, I didn't get to this in time. Here is a link to a 25 pack of bolts (enough for 2 cars) for $11, throw in some lock washers and you are all set for under $15... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Hex-Head-Cap-Screw-6AE10?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Fasteners-_-Screws-_-6AE10&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=6AE10 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Ok so my next line of questions... Haha what size drill bit should I be using on the broken stud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Should say on your screw extractor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 What extractor does everyone reccomend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Especially for the smaller work, I favor the square, tapered ones. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Especially for the smaller work, I favor the square, tapered ones. B I've never actually used that style... how do you find them better? Anything in particular? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I used a set of these for various things on my rig, they've worked well so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 ^ those look cool but I wonder about how well they will work with the bolt actually broken off inside the head not being flush and the lack of room in general in the area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) Never seen or used those Adam, but I don't like the reverse spiral on small stuff, EZ-Outs anyway. I've never actually used that style... how do you find them better? Anything in particular? They don't have the reverse spiral so the bite is set by taping them into the hole (read variable) and rather than break, they will usually back out of the hole so you have a better feel. I've broken too many of the small spiral types to trust them. Everyone has their own preference/finess though. B The best approach is to use left handed drills from the start, regardless of what extractor you use... Edited September 28, 2011 by Precise1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 These are the only kinds we have at work I think... and should I use tungsten or cobalt drill bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 We got it the first time!! Cobalt drills are harder than HSS but tend to be more brittle, especially with higher percentages of cobalt alloys. The tungsten drills should be tougher but not as brittle so I would use those. I do not believe the studs are hardened so special tooling is not really required. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 sorry must of refreshed when posting or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbpredator Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 So today while talking to a mechanic I deliver parts to he was showing me a center to use in the stud hole and is letting me borrow it should make thing easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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