Tungsten Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I have been looking for this exhaust leak for a while now. It's a ticking sound coming from somewhere and I don't know where it is but it seems biased more toward the drivers side. The catch is the ticking sound only happens when the engine is under load so standing there and revving the engine is useless in finding the leak. I am suspecting this EGR fitting to be leaking. Is there anything I can do except buy a new EGR line? That thing costs $50 or more! Any ideas to help me pin point the leak better? Mind the crappy cell phone picture. You can definitely see some rust on it though! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 pull it off and check for cracks. i doubt its the EGR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 You can get a sort of ghetto exhaust repair putty, my dad tried it on mine before having it done properly. Put it around wherever you think it's leaking. If that stops the leak... temporarily... then you've found where it's leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) pull it off and check for cracks. i doubt its the EGR. I'm kinda with steve on this... we had to CUT and extend my EGR tube to fit my thorleys with the lift lol, and it's fine. i have a spare EGR tube if you really think it's that, but i'd say you just don't have a good "seal" somewhere. have you checked your studs n nuts after driving on new headers? they do back off a bit the first couple of months. Edited August 30, 2011 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I told him to check the studs but he thinks they are on there good. I said to try and snug them up but he wouldn't listen. Crazy russians. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 lol why don't you try reaching some of those studs it's not like they are out in the open i had a shop tighten them and they said they were tight what's worse is i can't show the noise because the camera microphone will not pick it up 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) After about 100 miles in driving with new exhaust gaskets, it's a good idea to snug everything up again. if you don't it'll be easier to blow gaskets. The header install really isn't that bad, the trick is to use shorty wrenches. Something like this: and one or 2 of the nuts/studs can be accessed with a long extension and socket through the wheel well. but snug up the nuts. if one breaks off in the process or is found missing it was probably the issue and you're looking at replacing studs and gaskets otherwise it's probably cracked. if it's cracked and you're the original owner of these headers. contact doug thorley directly. their number is: (951) 739-5903 Edited August 30, 2011 by SteeevO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 lol why don't you try reaching some of those studs it's not like they are out in the open i had a shop tighten them and they said they were tight what's worse is i can't show the noise because the camera microphone will not pick it up Why don't you try it yourself instead of believing what a shop tells you. I stopped doing that long ago. But yeah it is easier with the body lift but come on, it's not THAT bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I just did the passenger side last week. it took me about 20 - 30 minutes to install, while talking to a friend and drinking a cold beverage. Just because you can't see the nuts very well doesn't mean you can't wrench on them. do it all by feel. The trick is shorty wrenches. I've done this more than once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 The ticking noise under load is a sign of the manifold leak. I had the same thing, if you were real easy on the throttle it wouldn't do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Maybe it's different with the Thorleys but with the stock manifolds you can do them all with a combination of a regular socket, deep socket, short extension and ratchet too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 You can get a sort of ghetto exhaust repair putty, my dad tried it on mine before having it done properly. Put it around wherever you think it's leaking. If that stops the leak... temporarily... then you've found where it's leaking. I had a similar leak at the EGR connection because the tube doesn't line up to the threaded bung perfectly. It threaded together correctly, but barely since it was under load and a wrench was used the entire way. I developed a tick under load, took it apart and put some Permatex Copper on the threads and re-assembled it. No more tick... I told him to check the studs but he thinks they are on there good. I said to try and snug them up but he wouldn't listen. Crazy russians. Of course. Why even talk aboot leaks if you haven't checked the obvious? The rear most on the drivers side bolt on mine loosened up a bit until it leaked and needed re-torquing... After about 100 miles in driving with new exhaust gaskets, it's a good idea to snug everything up again. if you don't it'll be easier to blow gaskets. The header install really isn't that bad, the trick is to use shorty wrenches. Something like this: and one or 2 of the nuts/studs can be accessed with a long extension and socket through the wheel well. but snug up the nuts. if one breaks off in the process or is found missing it was probably the issue and you're looking at replacing studs and gaskets otherwise it's probably cracked. if it's cracked and you're the original owner of these headers. contact doug thorley directly. their number is: (951) 739-5903 Pretty much X2 on everything he said. Drive it so it heats and cools, vibrates, the gaskets cook, etc a few times than resnug the bolts, I almost guarantee a few will need it. Patience, the right tools and thinking about it will get it done every time. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 Why don't you try it yourself instead of believing what a shop tells you. I stopped doing that long ago. But yeah it is easier with the body lift but come on, it's not THAT bad. *sigh* I remember when I first got these installed, I went back to the shop after ~100 miles and they re-torqued the nuts right in front of my face. They did the best they could and used short wrenches. I think I will add some copper silicone to the threads as per Precise1's recommendation. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 you sure your not hearing the exhaust leak out of the slip fitting on the passenger side collector? the part that runs under the transmission over to the y pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 That should be sealed good the last time I checked! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 how did you seal it? I had eventually just welded mine. I'm no longer running the DT y pipe due to the SAS and it's all one piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 tack weld it in the spots it was leaking out of and put a band clamp over the slip fitting along with permatex copper rtv so it's a nice sandwich going there and i haven't had a leak there since but i can still pull it apart by cutting the tacks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 even if you weld it solid you can take it off. just keep it in mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 right but that would involve taking the torsion bars off, it gets very sketchy with a one piece and no body/suspension lift although i may just weld it solid eventually and forget about it like i wanted to do but whatever i'm sure there is no leak from there 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 ok here is some more photos i also found that the head allows for more studs but they were just tapped holes and i have no idea why those studs are tighter than tight though and none of them are broken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 take a picture from the bottom at the rear most exhaust port. I know there is a bunch of IFS stuff in there but try to get the camera in there. If it's cracked, chances are it won't be visible from the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Just stumbled across this. http://www.instructables.com/id/Find-an-exhaust-leak-without-burning-your-hands/ Worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Maybe take off the headers and replace the gaskets... or check them for scorch marks where there is a leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 No scorch marks or carbon deposits there. The gaskets are solid and the studs are tighter than tight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 In your last pic it doesn't look like the gasket is sitting tight against the header and engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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