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Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler


SRN
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There seems to be a lot written about this topic here, but not a whole lot that is definitive. I'm hoping someone can provide me with a few concise answers:

 

Dimensions: What physical size should I be looking for?

 

Rating: Both GVW and BTU

 

I'm partial to the B&M units, but I want to make sure I am getting the right one. There was a post a couple years back where someone had installed one, but he no longer appears to be active. So has anyone else installed a B&M cooler?

 

EDIT: Never mind, found it. B&M Model # 70268. 13,000 BTU.

Edited by SRN
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Don't know about those but one thing you can do is get a trans cooler off a ford explorer from the JY, might be easier on the wallet. But if you do buy one I heard the bigger the GVW of the cooler the better.

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I've run a 12k cooler and it was sufficient. I have an 18k cooler right now and think it's over kill for anyone who doesn't tow regularly. I believe a 16k cooler by itself is perfect, if you go with a 12k cooler, loop it in with your stock cooler.

 

Dimensions of the (fin) Flexalite Transcool 4118 (18,000GVW) is 7.5x15x.75 (this is what I run currently)

 

Demensions of the (plate) B&M 70268 (13,000BTU) is 7.25x11x.75

 

I dunno how GVW and BTU correlate to each other, but I do know that plate style coolers, such as the B&M, are far more efficient, but they can also clog easier. So the two coolers COULD be equivalent to each other but like I said, I dunno for sure.

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Do NOT loop an aftermarket cooler with your stock one. The issue with the stock cooler is that it clogs up. Running an aftermarket cooler in line with the stock one does nothing to rectify the issue.

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The stock cooler is just a single pipe that runs through the bottom tank of the radiator. Spray it out with carb cleaner real good and it's fine. these transmissions don't fail because of a clogged cooler, but from lack of maintenance.

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The stock cooler is just a single pipe that runs through the bottom tank of the radiator. Spray it out with carb cleaner real good and it's fine. these transmissions don't fail because of a clogged cooler, but from lack of maintenance.

Nissan has a TSB for cleaning the trans cooler. Do that and maybe install an in-line filter before the cooler inlet line to prevent it from becoming clogged, keep on top of drain & fills and I think the stock cooler would be fine to use with an auxiliary trans cooler in line with it.

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The stock cooler is just a single pipe that runs through the bottom tank of the radiator. Spray it out with carb cleaner real good and it's fine. these transmissions don't fail because of a clogged cooler, but from lack of maintenance.

That can be said for any vehicle, willing to bet most wd21s that have had tranny failure probably had the original fluid in it.

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Right, the TSB speaks exactly of what I was referring to; clogging. Most owners won't clean their transmission coolers with anything, and I know I didn't. I simply flushed/filled my transmission fluid at regular intervals, to ensure it was clean and uncontaminated. Technically, harsh chemicals (those found in carb cleaners, for instance) shouldn't be in a transmission. For most people, it's safer to take the stock cooler out of the loop, and use an aftermarket model less prone to clogging.

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That's all retarded, you can run the auxiliary cooler inline with the stock just fine for better warm-up in the winter. If your cooler is clogging then the transmission is already done for. With regular fluid changes you should not get to see any clogging.

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Technically, harsh chemicals (those found in carb cleaners, for instance) shouldn't be in a transmission.

 

Yeah, I don't mean to fill the thing with carb cleaner and then immediately hook it up, give it a few hours to evaporate. I cleaned my stock cooler out this way, looped some trans line to it to keep it sealed just in case I hose the after market one while wheeling.

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  • 2 months later...

no, you don't need them, the pressure isn't that high. I bypassed my stock cooler a long time ago, and the truck has ~275k km on the original transmission with 2 fluid flushes. It still shifts as crisp as ever and is one of the things that still works relatively fine on my old truck. If you're gonna loop it with the factory cooler, why bother adding it in the first place if you're adamant about cleaning the factory unit? The heat kills the transmission and an large aftermarket unit on it's own will do a fine job of cooling if you put it up front so it gets the fresh air. The odd fluid inspection and change will keep the clogging problem at bay.

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Do NOT loop an aftermarket cooler with your stock one. The issue with the stock cooler is that it clogs up. Running an aftermarket cooler in line with the stock one does nothing to rectify the issue.

Install an inline filter and run any configuration of coolers you want. It'll only do the trranny that much better. ;)

 

I am considering rerouting my system to go from tranny to filter to stock cooler to aux cooler back to tranny. :shrug:

 

B

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