1990pathy Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 here is some pics of what tearing apart i got done today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 so what is the quickest and best way to remove the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) I don't know that there is really a consensus. You can try sliding the transmission back to see if that gives you enough room. Otherwise you're going to have to take it off entirely or remove the front crossmember or diff... But wait, you're swapping transmissions anyway, so just take the transmission off. Edited July 3, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) so what is the quickest and best way to remove the motor? I chose to remove the radiator undo stuff from engine and motor mounts disconnect drive lines disconnect tranny mounts (This way the engine and tranny can wiggle up and down it makes it easier to get the bolts from around the bell housing. Was able to get the dreaded top bolt off with just a wrench and socket from the bottom of the truck) push transmission back as far as possible (tranny jack highly desirable but not required a regular rolling floor jack will work) pull engine forward off the last inch or so of transmission shaft lift motor straight up. careful to not park to close to the garage so your picker can raise without hitting the garage door frame. drop tranny any time or take out through the engine compartment. Supposedly there is a way to pull the engine and trans as a mated set I have not seen it done, but I would imagine that you would have to cut the cross piece that the radiator bolts to or drop the front suspension or both. HTH Edited July 3, 2011 by ejin4499 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 thanks man.. in my haynes it says i have to drop the front end??? i was like ya right!!!hahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 thanks man.. in my haynes it says i have to drop the front end??? i was like ya right!!!hahah LOL ya I read that too. I've had the motors out of two different pathfinders along with the transmissions from the same and I still haven't had to pull the front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 going to pick up the motor and trans today..does anyone live in eugene or springfield? if you live by me you can come help..lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 here she is.. the motor and tranny.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 im way over on cash and am broke. if i double up the exhuast manifold gaskets from both motors will that be good to seal it up.... almost ready to pull the motor, just gotta unhook the trans and exhuast y pipe.. damm these v6s are heavy...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 If you really have to reuse the manifold gaskets (which are like 10 bucks for a set) I would at least use some copper rtv to help seal them. Make sure to change the timing belt on the new motor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 the timing belt and waterpump are good.. they both look brand new.. no cracking on the timing belt teeth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 so you guys know that bolt that is below the starter to open up the flywheel to get to the torque converter bolts well it stripped and i have no clue what to do!@!!!!!!!!!!!! f$#k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 What stripped the head or the threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 the head its rounded..its the 14 mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 You could drill a hole in the bolt and use a screw extractor. I'd probably torch the bolt first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 turn the stripped bolt with a center punch. Drive the center punch into the side of the bolt head on one of the flats. Once you have a good depression in the bolt head angle the center punch so when you hit it it unscrews the bolt. I've had to do this many times on fords, the nuts they use on their torque converters are very soft. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) its not the torque converter bolt.. its the bolt that holds the inspection plate to the tranny that you have to remove to get to the torque converter bolts.. and there is no way to get in there with anything but a long extension Edited July 11, 2011 by 1990pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Long drill bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 its not the torque converter bolt.. its the bolt that holds the inspection plate to the tranny that you have to remove to get to the torque converter bolts.. and there is no way to get in there with anything but a long extension Your talking about the plate that that mounts to the side of the engine and the tranny that has the hole that the starter goes through right? and your trying to get that off so you can get to the torque converter bolts that hold the tc to the flex-plate right? I think I skipped this part and used an offset ratcheting end wrench to disconnect the tc. If I remember right the bolts are pretty short. I had to take the exhaust manifold off to get some room to work with though. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 yes that dam bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 yes that dam bolt If I remember right you don't need to take it out. You can get access to the tc bolts though the starter hole and just use the offset end wrench. I think. If that doesn't work you get at it from the top if you take out the exhaust manifold. You have the starter out already right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 So my understanding is that you are removing an engine mated to an automatic transmission, right? Then installing a manual transmission and engine, right? If so the torque converter bolts don't need to be undone while still mated to the engine. The torque converter will slip off the input shaft of the transmission when you pull the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 He isn't talking about the torque converter... he's talking about the little engine gusset plate that the starter passes through. It's basically unimportant, but it holds the engine and transmission together since it bolts into both the bell housing and engine block. You gotta figure out how you can get in there with whatever you need. You might have to remove some more stuff. Take the wheel off if you haven't already and try to go through the wheel well? Remove AT cooler lines if in the way? etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Ahh, that bracket. It's a pain in the ass. It unbolts from both the transmission and engine though, so why not remove the two bolts from the side of block and leave the bracket attached to the transmission? It's been a year since I last pulled a Pathfinder engine and I don't quite remember if there's room for that but I think there is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 well im not putting in the manual tranny yet.. because i still need to teach my girl how to drive a stick.... so untill then the auto will stay in.. i got the starter off. oil filter, and exhuast manifold off.. i even tried to air hammer a 13mm socket on and still stripped out.. im stummped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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