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Torn CV Boot


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I have discovered torn inboard CV Boots on both front axles. I have an 89 Pathy (5 speed tranny) with Warn manual hubs. What is involved with replacing both front drive axles? I decided since they both have to come out, I might as well replace the entire drive axles rather than monkey around trying to change just the boots.

 

Any insight wold be appreciated. Also are both drivers and passenger side axles the same length and size?

 

Thanks again.

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It's an easy job. I did it for the same reason. You're better off replacing the drive axles, even though it's much cheaper to replace just the boot. I bought a boot and a drive axle, and was going to return whichever I didn't use. Turns out that it's a bitch to remove the spider joint, which is necessary to replace the boot. One guy on this forum did it with a vise and a hammer. I have a vise and a hammer, but no matter how much I wailed on that thing (I did remember to take the snap ring off), I still couldn't get the spider joint off. So I just put the new axle on and called it a day. I still kept the new boot, though, because one of these days I'm going to figure out how to remove that damn spider joint, then I'll put the new boot on and have a spare axle.

 

I think someone else said that they're the same left/right, because it's the same part number.

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Might want to post this in a WD21 section if you have an 89...

 

I just replaced boots on a 91 CV and didn't find it too hard. I did not take apart the outboard joint, only the inner, which is easily disassembled. Problem with just replacing the whole driveshaft is if the replacement is of low quality. But you could keep the old one (especially if it is OEM?) and rebuild it in your spare time...

 

Anyway, on my 91 I had to: remove wheel, remove shock, unbolt upper ball joint (not separate), remove hub, remove cv snapring, unbolt cv from front diff (12 mm 12 pt), remove cv (if I remember all the steps). Removing the caliper and tie rod would make things easier but shouldn't be strictly necessary.

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manual hubs make it easier since you can lock one side to allow you to get torque on the opposite side's axle nuts. There is a good thread on here somewhere that i will try to find

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manual hubs make it easier since you can lock one side to allow you to get torque on the opposite side's axle nuts. There is a good thread on here somewhere that i will try to find

 

manual hubs also make it easier to snap the cv axle you are applying torque to :tongue:

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Yeah, just replace the whole thing. Usually they have lifetime warranties so if it breaks you get the replacement for free.

 

manual hubs make it easier since you can lock one side to allow you to get torque on the opposite side's axle nuts. There is a good thread on here somewhere that i will try to find

 

I wish I had thought of that. I ended up jamming it with a spare towhook.

 

 

What the hell are you talking about.

 

hahaha, ah the eloquence of truth.

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Yeah, just replace the whole thing. Usually they have lifetime warranties so if it breaks you get the replacement for free.

 

 

 

I wish I had thought of that. I ended up jamming it with a spare towhook.

 

 

 

I had my friend sitting in the truck switching from 2wd to 4wd to hold it lol

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