MaritimeMan Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 The first and most important step to this process: Spray PB Blaster on any and evey bolt, nut stud you will be removing and let it soak fo at least a day. I let mine soak for 3. Well, the manifolds came out easy enough, but still the SNAFU. The top rear stud on the passenger side was snapped, and sitting inside the heat shielding. Only problem, it's busted about a 1/4" inside the block. Ok only one, fair enough, still doesn't explain the full blown exhaust nois, besides the tick. Then the tri (three bolt) flange from the man to the pipe was removed. Took apart the Y pipe connection, and the whole darn pipe came out, rotted at the tri flange. Hmmmm nice touch, explains the noise. Problem is now that darn busted stud. Any suggestions on gettin it out? Realisticaly, the only way I see being able to get at it with any precision is to remove the engine. There is absolutely no room back there for a drill and easy out, plus all the rest of the studs are a PITA to get out, so might as well save the time by takin it out. Oh well, had a feelin it would end up this way. Wish me Luck. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Consider just pulling the head. Yes it is work, but pulling the motor is more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 9, 2004 Author Share Posted November 9, 2004 Would that involve the timing belt at all? Don't want to do it unless I have to, and I'd like to avoid the timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Yeah, that would include the timing belt. You might just plain leave it broken off and just bolt the headers on anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 10, 2004 Author Share Posted November 10, 2004 Yah, but that would completely defeat the purpose of what I am trying to achieve here. Its the outter one, so there is no chance of support ffrom the rest of the flange, and it would eventualy leak again. Might as well get it done while I can, and create less problems down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 You might want to consider a oil filter relocation kit while you're at it. I just changed my oil for the first time since the Thorley's were installed and the space between the header pipe and the frame rail is smaller than the filter is wide, so I had a hard time getting the filter out without making a mess. You could either get the kit or maybe punch a hole in the filter and drain it before wrestling it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinasu Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Where do you get the filter relocation kit? I hate the stock location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 11, 2004 Author Share Posted November 11, 2004 Ditto, does summit offer such an item? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/129_0311_reloc/ http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page27.html There's all sorts of different kinds, I bet you could find them at a ricer shop in your area somewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 AC has 'em too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 13, 2004 Author Share Posted November 13, 2004 I will never deal with AC again. Period. Thier products are crap, and even if they are made by some one else, I will not go through them as a middle man, even if I have to pay a couple of bucks extra somewhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatterHorn Posted November 13, 2004 Share Posted November 13, 2004 I will never deal with AC again. Period. Thier products are crap, and even if they are made by some one else, I will not go through them as a middle man, even if I have to pay a couple of bucks extra somewhere else. most of the time it's cheaper than A/C anyways ... so you are better off ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 14, 2004 Author Share Posted November 14, 2004 Ok todays update. Clutch kit, new plugs, motor mounts, thermostat, fuel filter, mocked up the Y pipe and ripped the rest of the exhaust out. I had to cut the muffler out, just behind it, so I could get the tail pipe out. Cat unbolted, so I have three crappy lookin sections to model for my pipe bending fun. Engine on the hoist with the headers all mocked up really got me excited. Was workin kind of slow today, but lookin at that really got me movin. She's gonna be bad arse when I'm all done. Oh and took some pics today, so I'll update my Domain page tomarrow and link it so ya'll can see. and the fun continues....... M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 14, 2004 Author Share Posted November 14, 2004 Link to Pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted November 14, 2004 Share Posted November 14, 2004 Lookin good... =) I'm diggin' the Calmini pool table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thndrwhls Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 Awesome lookin headers man!!! I am looking into the Thorley headers myself. Great work, keep us posted on the outcome... I am new to this post but am learning so much(ie, relocate the oil filter w/headers) about Pathys it is very cool... Heres to ya... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flnl Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 Well, the manifolds came out easy enough, but still the SNAFU. I think I'll have to do the work soon... there's a (low) ticking sound coming from the manifold... BTW, what means SNAFU? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 Situation Normal All F$%#@* Up. I belive it's a technical term used in the military. P.S. Sorry for swearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Wow, pretty major job there to replace broken manifold studs! That's the way things go sometimes. I have been there, one thing leads to another to another. Next thing you know you've yanked the engine. I have a question regarding the new headers. Is this a performance improving mod? I know you said the old ones were rusted out, but will these new ones be more free flowing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Headers will improve your engine's performance and you'll get better gas mileage. I have Thorley headers on my '87 v6 and I can tell a big difference over the restrictive stock exhaust manifolds. if I remember correctly, Thorley claims they give you an extra 15% horsepower, which ends up being around 20 more ponies on my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted December 8, 2004 Author Share Posted December 8, 2004 Well to clarify, yes they have improved the performance. Definately alot more get up and go. Mileage curve has changed quite a bit. At city driving and such, about the same. However, its the freeway that kinda suprised me. Shortly after the install, made the trip up to Seattle and back to Vallejo. If I stayed around 70mph, I'd get about 19 mpg. As soon as I kicked up to 80, it dropped wayyyyy down to about 14.5/ 15. So to sumerize; yes, big performace increase, however, she'll suck the gas down pretty fast when you are going that extra speed. The power is there if I need it, but I stay around 70-75 when drivin on the freeway on long road trips. M.M. p.s. I make the trip from Vallejo (school) to Seattle (home) about 2-3 times a year. Takes me exactly 12 hours, runnin about 875 miles, driveway to driveway, including fuel stops. I'm gathered a pretty good idea of where she likes to run, and things like mountain climbs, headwinds, traffic definately affect mileage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seattle_Al Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 I started my Thorley upgrade this weekend, and ran into the same problem, except in my case that stud broke off about two threads below the surface. After screwing around for two hours with the Dremel tool, I gave up and went to the hardware store for a cobalt bit and an easy out. (I also have the 3' flexi-attachment for the Dremmel, which let me get a near-straight shot at that stud) As soon as I started drilling with the bit the stud broke free and started spinning in the head, so I ended up not needing the easy-at all, I was able to spin it out with a screwdriver. So here I am, Sunday night and one broken stud away from being done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted December 13, 2004 Author Share Posted December 13, 2004 Lucky, Lucky Lucky. Mine was the furthest one back on the pass side, so even a 90 degree drill wouldn't have been able to get in there. I ended up PB Blasting it over night, drilling it, pounding the crap outta it , heating it with propane just to be sure, and still had to put a bit of elbow grease to get it out. Grats mans, you'll like the thorley's alot. Are you doin a full exhaust swap, or just the headers? If you have any questions, lemme know. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seattle_Al Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 That's the one, top rear on passenger side. I pulled down that rubber service cover in the wheel well (held on by about a dozen black plastic snaps), removed the front wheel and got a straight-shot at it. My whole garage stinks like PB Blaster (bleah). Do you have to weld that slip joint in the y-pipe, or will a clamp work? Just doing the headers for now, though if I get it buttoned up today without too much added expense, I'll probably order the Borla cat-back system. Now I'm off to find that header stud... -al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted December 13, 2004 Author Share Posted December 13, 2004 I welded mine using a little ol Lincoln welder. Proper way to do would be a TIG weld, but I coudn't get to ours at the time and I needed it done. Definately would not clamp it. Its a snug fit, but still some play in it, so a clamp will just leak. Right under the rig is not a good place for a leak my friend. If anything, bolt it all up, mark it for alighnment, and take em to anexhaust shop and have them do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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