Boris

Does the car give you an electric shock when you get out?? Static electricity could be the cause so you might try hanging one of those grounding straps (black bubberised things dangling under some cars). When it rains the water does a great job of grounding you vehicle but during the long dry spells you run on 4 rubber isolators(tyres). Just a thought.

Black is the only way to fly. I wonder when the "Rice Boy Crew" will come up with a carbon look tint film. I'm sure they are working on it.

WOW! If the heads were so messed up that they couldn't be repaired I would look into what caused this to happen. (were they tourqued down properly, severely overheated) Have your mechanic check the mating surface on the engine block and closely inspect the head bolts. It would suck big time if you bolted your brand spanking new heads onto a block that is in need of decking or if you used streched out or cracked studs. If it was heat that caused the heads to be that warped you should resolve that issue before you go any further. Do it once, do it right and you should be a happy camper. Something caused this to happen and if you don't find the problem now you might be back with head problems in a few months. Don't want to sound like a drag but do some detective work.

:confused: I have to ask...... what was wrong with the heads ??? were they cracked , valve seats messed up , warped , guides worn???? What was so messed up in them that a good machine shop couldn't repair????? For that $1000 you could have some major flowing heads with all the bells and whistles so what whas the reason for condemning them ?

So, you sayd that when you pulled out the distrybutor and used a jumper cable as ground all was good to go so did you check the grounding strap that grounds your motor to the frame ??? Just a thought. Maybe your motor has a bad ground. K.I.S.S.

Inside or outside boots?? Shouldn't realy matter as you might as well replace both. You'll have to pop the drive shaft(s) out, remove one CV joint per axle, clean CV joints, apply new greese, install new boots, reinstall the removed CV joints, reinstall drive shafts. I sometimes go one step further and put the CV joints that were on the left side onto the right side and vice versa(just the CV joints not the shafts). Arm yourself with a BFH to help with stubborn ball joints. sly

Every internal combustion engine will suffer at altitude because there is less air for it to stuff into the cylinders. Is your power loss all through the rev range or do you develope a flat spot? If it's all over than not to worry as it's normal and there isn't much that can be done about it. A turbo is the best way to compensate as it crams the air in but that can be costly.

I think those lights look GREAT..... on a 10 year old Civic driven by a 16 year old kid. P.S. Would a 2 foot wing fit on the back of a lifted PF and still clear the drive through window at Burger King?? Just my $0.02+TAX

Just to clarify.... when I sayd "bad gas", that doesn't necessarily mean gas that is spoiled or inferiorin in some way. However, it could. :confused: By saying "bad gas" just means gas which has an octane rating insufficient for the engine.

How much does a used gas tank in good shape cost at a wrecking yard??? Just curious. :confused:

LINDERS, Where I used to live (over in Europe), every tyre&shock place had the vibrators as well as all the places that did vehicle inspections. It was done as part of your anual check up. Now that I'm here in the US(and loving it) I have yet to see any shop with the vibrators but I'm sure they are out there. Call the major tyre chains or maybe even shock distrybutors. If you ask me, all these shops should have them to properly diagnose problems and save us, the customer money on useless repairs. I used the name "vibrator" because that's what we used to call them, they shake the poop out of each wheel but I'm sure they have a technical name. One that doesn't make you think of sport&recreation equipment. sssh

Here's a thought. Before shelling out cash for the struts why don't you find a shop with a "vibrator", They can test the shocks and determine what % of life is left in them. While the car is on the vibrator have a look underneath you might be able to see if all the joints and bushings are OK.

Situation Normal All F$%#@* Up. I belive it's a technical term used in the military. P.S. Sorry for swearing.

The knock sensor is an acoustic device(just for fun lets call it a microfone) that listens for detonation(knock). If it detects detonation(commonly caused by bad fuel) it retards the timing to protect the motor internal parts(mainly pistons). That's a simple way of looking at the knock sensor but since I don't even have a Pathy yet I have no clue as to where it is. Most cars have them in the back of the head in a place that is hard to get to. If you would like to see a picture of a piston that has been affected by detonation just let me know. I have a bunch.

You could always weld on some fresh metal onto that tank to seal it up. Make the patch large enough that you can weld it to solid clean metal and after you are done pressure test it. Before you fire up the torch take the tank out of the car, drain out all the fuel and fill the tank up with water. Make sure its full all the way as any vapour might ruin your day. I have done this when I was younger playing with $50 bush bashers with friends. We had a way of finding stumps and rebar sticking up of the ground just waiting to punch holes in sumps and tanks. The good old days.