thndrwhls

I really was just wanting to know so I could modify the existing ECU. I used to work for a company outside of Detroit that specialized in Automotive networks and proticall, but this is old technology and most likely would have to know what software, type of code etc... I am almost positive it was in early Basic, but if there are programs out there for calabrating our ECU's that would be very helpfull. For that matter, with software and minumal hardware investment I am sure ai could get those guys to show how to and perhaps we could have our own little remaping gig for NPORA members. this way we can customize to our requirements and not somebodys idea of a what we need. Whatcha think???

And switching the MPFI would deffinatley involve switching the computer and any other neccesary realted items? I am sure there are other threads on the subject that I have read in the past... Riddle me this: Does anyone know where to get the software required to remap our computers?

Gotta friend with a machine shop and a CNC that could make an adapter plate. I noticed today that there is a supercharger out of a Xterra on ebay, perhaps that and the TBI from the Xterra would work. I dont know but am willing to try and see what will work.

My 89 does the same thing, I'm thinkin that the springs are just sagging a bit. Another thing to think about is that it was engineered to ride level when the driver was sitting in the drivers seat, I have read many articles about haveing to put weight in the drivers seat to get it to align properly for this reason.

So, I have been thinking(Look out, could be dangerous), I was wondering if a loarger bore throttle body could be adapted to an 89 vg30? I did a bunch of searching and I am thinking the answer is no without spending a small fortune but wanted to see what would come back anyway. Any thoughts?

Hey guys I really appreciate the concerns and I would love to give you the challenge but I am a bit of a stubborn fool when it comes to being independant. They told me I should get an electric chair, I said as long as I have two good arms I will push myself. Although, heres a challenge for ya. I have an electric wheelchair that someone has given me, its pretty much a mainstream model but its heavy duty and designed to support bariatric patients, heavy duty electric motors, shocks etc... I have wanted to modify it so that I could get off road, with out the truck, but i have found soething since that pretty much take care of it. Check out TankChair.com and tell me what you think. Now, he built this thing with basic power chair electronics and got motors from a high end robot builder (battle bot stuff) and the tracks from Mattracks.com the ones they sell for ATV's I have the basics, problem is the tracks are $2500.00, not particularly afforable... Any ideas for making tracks or another company that makes a similar but less expensive product let me know. Thanks, Joe

Yeah, I have seen those things and there are a multitude of options out there for guys like me. I'm from the school of less is more though, all of that gear adds a lot of maintenance issues and cost to the project. And to answer your question, when I transfer into my truck I grab my chair and pull the wheels off and put it all behind the passenger seat.

My thought witht the 2" was that I wouldnt have to extend the fill house on the fuel tank, brake lines, etc... Doing jsut an 1.2 to 2" lift on the suspension I figured would be easier on the CV joints... If this wont get it then I will probably just go with the suspension lift and 31's as I am in a wheelchair anyway and doing a full 6" lift may prove to much to pick my ass up into. One can dream...

Unfourtunatly most of what is around here can be muddy. If you hit the area when its dry though it's not to bad just lots of ruts from the big redneck toys. I've had my pathy on 4 wheeler trails around here without problem, the main trails are pretty good size. Being in the Mississippi valley has its drawbacks. Anytime your around look me up... Joe

I'm in Memphis! There's a spot I know of here, wolf river bottoms off of I 240 on the north side, gets kinda muddy and can be nasty. You guys hit me up if your around. Joe

I've done quite a bit of research on here already, you guys are my first stop when anything gets done to my pathy. I chose to go 2" SL and 2" BL because it would be the least expensive and least amount of work. Alos it would be less stress on the CV joints than 3". Plus I am in a wheelchair so getting into anything taller would pose a challenge. I think 31" will be sufficient for now. Thanks for you advice, Joe

Thanks Slick, so stick with 31's for would be safe or go all the way with the lift.

Ok, let me get this straight! I'm gonna get new rims & tires after the first of the year. I plan on lifting my 89 with a 2" body lift so I dont have to do any other modifications, i.e. brake lines, gas hose, etc... and go with JGC spings in the rear and UCA's up front to get another 2" suspension lift. I also am going to replace all the bushings with new teflon and get the L&P kit and new tie rod ends. But with this lift is it enough to keep 33's from rubbing? Any ideas on backspacing and width to minumize trouble? Thanks guys...

Wow, some of you guys have way to much time on your hands... The front end of this era of Pathfinder is will definately not win any style awards, but as many of the more creative peeps on this board have done look at it as an open slate. The whole idea of many of us owning these trucks is to make them ours in the first place. Customize!!! Bumpers, lights, grills, etc... Fab to your hearts content. If the front end of the these pathys bothers you that much then why the hell would you bother in the first place. By the time you put a bumper and some lights on the front end of this truck you dont really see the grill, you change the profile (depending on your choice of bumpers, lights, etc...) so... I am sticking with "It's a clean slate for your creativity" & "Make it your own"...

Thanks guys, I'm droppin her off at at local Nissan specialist tomorrow. She needs some TLC other than the Alt., getting the left rear axil seals replaced so I am gonna let them do the alternator to. Tweak some leaks and other issues to. I hate to depend on the shops but its a necessary evil at this time. Thanks for the advice guys...

I noticed this last night, I got back in my trucj after pickin up a movie and she turned over slow as if the battery was low on juice. Not likely since I bought an Optima merely a couple of months ago, however the voltage gauge was reading way low, lights were dim, etc... I decided to head back to the house instead of to my buddies since it was much closer. Didnt make it quite home before she died, now my common since tells me that its the alternator so new alternator problem solved. My cousin however, who is a mechanic, tells me that it could be as simple as the voltage regulator which is much cheaper than replaceing the alternator. Which is great but I couldnt seem to find any threads relating to a particular volt/reg for the alt. on our pathys. Any advice? I did however like the write up's on the 110 amp alternators, if she wasent my everyday driver and I had the time and resources...

I had this problem with my passenger side window, I used a silicon spray as well with the tube and sprayed it in the track like everyone else, rolled it up and down several times and repeat. This was a ritual for about two or three weeks like every weekend when I would clean out my truck, It works great now... The silicon lubricant does not have petrolium in it like WD40 os it wont deterorate the rubber over time... Good luck.

Well, I ordered all the bearings and seals I could find on the parts list I d-loaded(thanks 88) also got the new shoes for the parking brake since the existing ones are saturated. I am taking it Monday to have them installed and will have them spin the axle to check it for bent. This place is known locally for specializing in nissans, hondas & Toyotas been around for years and has a great rep, should have taken it there first. He said it would be about $110.00 for everything I mentioned, I figured not to bad considering. Should be less since I am grabbing the parts, cuz works at a local dealer so he gets a deal, besides, I was trying to minimize down time. Thanks for the advice guys, I will keep you posted on the progress.

Thanks guys... So, its possible then that A: The axle has a burr. or B: The bearing is worn. Given this info I am lead to believe that the guy that did this for me either scored the seal upon reinserting the axle or that there was a burr since he replaces the bearing when he replaced the seal. Make sense? And the rubbing sound that it makes, could this be the parknig brakes rubbing? They dont work well at all, he did have to adjust them rather tight and stated that they may make that sound until the seat. I suppose I need to take it in and simply have it redone by a shop where I can take it back if it leaks again. Thanks for the input.

I had the rear axle seals replaced about a year ago, along with the rear parking brake pads that were saturataed with axle fluid. Its been a year, and several months ago I noticed that the back of the brake house ing was wet, leading me to believe that it was leaking again. Another clue is this, when I am backing up and tunring I hear a rubbing sound coming from the rear axle where the leak is. Any ideas as to what the underlying problem could be would be appreciated. it has been suggested that the axle may be bent, it also has been suggested that unless I am running large tires or bounceing my truck off of large bumps, niether of which I am doing, the axle probably would not be the culpret. Thanks in advance for your input...

There is undoubtably some great advice here. You may or may not have read the following article yet but this will give testimony to Gary's theory of better airflow through porting the heads, matching the and polishing the intake. it also talks of cams and ECU upgrades, all of which have been mentioned here. Even more interesting is the bottom end swap, a 3.3 block and pistons for the 3.0, more volume provides more ponies to. http://nissanperformancemag.com/projects/pathfinder.php August 2004 through Feburary 2005 should give you the food your looking for. Granted all of this comes at a cost, but it can be done. If your running an 89, as I am, you can always check out the guys at L & P, they offer a Throttle body P & P that supposed to add 5 - 10 horses. http://lpperformance.com/ I started saving my pennies, Good luck...

Ok, I just got through reading a previous post concerning engine mods and what we can do to these seemingly pitiful pathys to pep them up. Well I want to know what you guys would do if money was not such the object to make your pathys more powerful. Here are the rules: 1. Money is no object 2. No swapping motors outside Nissan, i.e. Chevy, Ford, etc... 3. Lets keep phase one in relatively stock suspension, i.e. no SAS'ing... We can get around to Extreme Dream Machines later, after all this is a Nissan Pathfinder forum, start swapping out all the parts and you end up with frankenpathy... I am curious to see how creative you experienced guys can get, i.e. polish and porting, computer mods, etc... And if anyone knows of any tranny mods feel free to elaborate. Let the fun begin...

I've got the same problem, I have an 89 pathy with TBI. The only time I passed inspection was when I first got my pathy. It wasent running well so I took it to a local shop, they tweaked it with a gas analyzer to where it passed, however it ran like @!*%. At the time I was pissed, they f'ed up my truck, had a friend that works for Nissan go through do a thorough tune up adjust the timeing, idle, etc... and it ran great, but has not passed inspection ever since. It fails the carbon Monoxide by like 1-2%, F'in re-****-u-lus... Anyway, now that the tags have been out for a year, I have had every code in the thing fixed, full tune up, new cat, O2, plugs wires, headers etc... I think I am going to try and pull the TBI, make sure the EGR passages are spotless, clean the MAF and see what happens. If that doesnt work then I am moving to where it doesnt matter. Freakin Smog Nazi's... Anyway, let me know if you come up with an idea that works. BTW 88, have you heard anything from L&P about a system they are developing to better fuel economy and emissions. I seem to remember Lee saying something about this months ago when I was discussing these problems with him. he was saying the proto was getting like 21 MPG, least I think thats what I remember... Peace Brutha's...

Its amazing how much it looks lik a range rover. I still like my 89, its paid for...

Check out the product review section, some good tire info...