thndrwhls

I was in search of more info on the emmisions system so I can satisfy the smog nazis and ran across this. Anti-Backfire (AB) Valve To check the AB valve, Open the engine hood, and remove the air cleaner cover. With the filter out, and the engine running at idle, place your finger over the opening in the base of the cleaner. If the valve function correctly, there should be a sucking action under all conditions, except under throttle. There is an illustration and much more info at this web site: http://search.epnet.com/login.aspx?authtyp...site=autorefctr username=fl2823 password=horn cut and paste the following link after you login: http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/framerq.asp Hope it helps...

After haveing the headers installed mine EGR plugged runs better than ever. I did go back to the muffler shop beacause it was making sort of a poping sound on decel, I thought maybe cause I had a resonator tip on it but turns out it was an exhaust leak in the doughnut, the guys fixed me right up with a thicker gasket than the one that came with the pacesetters. Moral of the story, a slight leak may make some noise on decel due to sucking in cold air. I seem to remember also that poping on the decle may have somthing to do with timing and inefficient burning of fuel but I wont swear it. Good luck...

I kinda fiugured the LSD would do that. As for the axle I hate to think its bent or somthing, but if it were any idea on how much? I suppose a salvage yard phone call is in order, and what the hell might as well check on some JGC springs as well. Thanks again for your input 88... Joe

I have an 89 pathy, had a guy replace the rear axle seals last fall. At the same time he replaced the parking brake shoes, due to the fluid absorption from the axle leak. He said he had to tighten them quite a bit so when I heard the rubbing noise comning from the rear I thought the brakes were just seating or somthing. Anyway, didnt pay to much attention to it, winter time windows up couldnt hear it etc... Had it on the rack this past week and noticed the seals are leaking again same side. Also noticed when turning the wheel the opposite side turned the same direction and was wondering if this was merely a trait of the limited slip diff or if somthing may be wrong. Any thoughts?

I wish I didnt have to deal with emmision here, but for now its cheaper to try and fix it than move so... Any thoughts on the injectors needing to be replaced? Thanks for your thoughts guys... Joe

Wow, I'm feelin you guys... How the hell, or did it even run? Hate to pop you theory though 88, I had the PCV and the Heater plate replaced last fall and no such blockage, a little dirty yes but a clear visual into the manifold. I do agree however that somthing is wrong and am determined to find out what. Anybody know a way to test the injectors? I am interested and will test the compression in the cylinders, thanks 88... The search continues...

I just go through have headers put on my 89. $200 labor, $230 pacesetter headers, $60 @ dealer for replacement bolts, nuts & washers. They guy worked from 8:30am to 4pm, awesome job for the money. However, in the process I noticed a couple of things that concern me. Only one stud was broken, passenger side, upper rear. The wierd thing is, and the guy noted this to me, the manifold for the most part was rust red in color, but right outside the middle it was grey, like brand new kinda grey. He said it was running lean and that is why it was that color at that cylinder. The opposite side was not that way but when he shined his light up there we could both see that the valve itself was coated in white rather than black like all the rest. Another clue? He said that it was a sign of the truck running lean. Now, I have to deal with the smog Nazis and have been having trouble getting through inspection. It was said on a topic I posted a while back that if it is failing the carbons that it is running rich, and if all the codes have been checked, fixed etc... then maybe the injectors are warn and need to be replaced. Any advice here would be great, there is deffinatly somthing wrong but putting my finger on it is a problem. Next question, the drivers side manifold had two pipes coming from it, the front side was going to the emmisons thing(for lack of what it really called) behind the driver side headlight, and one coming from the rear going to the EGR valve. Pacesetter put one tap in the headers and it only EGR tube fit it. However, since it was on the front side we cut the EGR pipe nipple off and welded it to the other pipe and it fit fine, we welded the end of the EGR pipe shut and put it back on so that in the future we can put a T in the other pipe and perhaps it. Any thoughts on this as far as will it hurt emmisions not to have a functional EGR? Sorry for the book guys just want to be detailed. Your response is appreciated in advance. I would offer Jack Daniels to ye gods of the Pathfinder but alas no one is local so Thanks, Joe

I'm working on purchasing cams as well and have found a place that has not been previously mentioned on this site. http://www.powerandperformancenews.com/sto...Code=Nissan-CAM Competition cams, there product is in Dale Jr. motor for the upcoming season. This I know because my nephew is an engineer for a spring company in Detroit and they flew him in to do some testing a couple weeks ago. Anyway, I have not yet called on these cams but the price looks pretty good from what I can tell and they offer several options. The give a deacription with each that may give some insight into what cam you may be looking for. Check them out. Joe

Welcome... I have family in Michigan, Oakland cty, was born in Livonia, lived in Farmington Hills, Oak Park and West bloomfield. As for cool places, have you been to Silver Lake & the dunes, it's noth of Muskeegon about 30 min, great place to take the family to. Enjoy the site... Joe

Great to have you home!!! Thanks for all your time and efforts while in Irac, it's much appreciated. I live in Memphis myself, glad to have a fellow memphian on the forum. Joe

Hey great, you guys are most helpfull. I have replaced the O2 sensor, the temp sensor and the heater plate undre the throttle body, and it seemd to get worse. I'm gonna try some of the other suggestion and see what happens. Thanks, Joe

Man, I have tried the higher lower thing, aside from the fact that they have me run at higher RPM's for like 3minutes to blow out the system and it still fails. I dont seem to have a problem with the HC's it's the Carbon Monoxide thats killing me. I have been through like 8 times. I have gotten two tickets over this and have a pardon from the judge because of my efforts, and paperwork to back it up, until July of 06. I thought this kind of silly since my renewal is in June, but whos complaining if I get pulled over all I have to do is show the letter. Ha, I guess I cant complain to much but damn, I just want to pass the freaking thing. BTW, Florida doesnt sound bad at all... Peace Brutha's Keep'em coming...

An 89 VG30, I have been trying to pass this thing since June with no luck. It would seem that the every time I fixed a potential problem the worse it would fail. The O2 sensor, new cat, the Temp sensor, the heater plate under the TBI and plugs wires etc. The one thing that has yet to be fixed is the broken manifold stud which I have been told would have no efect on emissions. However today I was speaking to a local mufler shop about headers and replacing studs and was told that it could possibly throw off the O2 sensor due to sucking cold air through the gap. I have always run this thing through inspection after running it to temp, not running the AC or anything else. Short of trying to trick the system I have tried everything that would apear to be a problem. It runs great, I have been told though that with a gas analyzer it cold be made to pass the test however it would run like crap so I would have to bring it back to have it retweaked. I have a hard time believing I will have to go through this everytime I have to have an inspection. HELP!!!

So, would it not be easier to remove the heads vs. the motor to remove the broken studs? Just thought and would like your input. I need to do mine as well and am going back with the thorleys when I do, be nice if I could afford cams at the same time but we will see...

Ahh, this one I know, its pretty simple too... Ya know those rubber bumpers on either side of your radiator that are there to support the hood, well they actually have treads so that they can be adjusted like a screw and if you back them out a little bit they will put enough pressure on your hood to help it pop up when you pull the release. I know this because I had the same problem and my cousin who is a mechanic adjusted them for me and it works great now. Hope it helps...

Hey, Jcollins... You mentioned in an earlier post on this thread that you had to give up the xterra rack because of height issues, still have the rack?

Hey, what about your rear hatch switch, I have an 89 and mine is broken, sure could use one... Let me know, Joe

I just got mine last fall, $5000 and only 60k original miles. Somebody obvioulsy took good care of it. I have already added a magnaflow muffler and a nice Pioneer deck wiht a 10" Audiobahn tube. I added the rancho 9000 adjustable shocks recently and will be adding the in cab remote as soon as I find tim eto install it. This summer I plan to do the thorley headers and finally get rid of that annoying tic... BTW, wouldnt know what the highest I might be able to crank the t-bars without causing problems would be would ya? The last guy that had it had cranked them all the way up, granted it looked cool but when I put the new shocks on realized it was to high and promptly had it lowered. Noe it looks way to low, especially after being used to seeing it taller in the front, looks like I need shackles under the rear end and 50's or somthin... I suppose I will probably have to just play with the height and see. Anyway, yeah, I like the black Pathy it looks great. I will have some pics of mine to post soon... Later, Joe

Awesome, perfect... Thats just what I needed... Thanks Hardwaretoad, love the black pathy btw, mine is white with black trim... I will have to check out that dowloadable stuff to, most helpfull. Take it easy man... Joe :cool2:

Hey guys, I have a need for a new sunroof handel for my 89 pathy. I checked with the guys at newnissanparts.com and they have one however the guy tells me I need two parts instead of one. ie the base and the handle. Now, not that its to much money but if I dont need to spend it then... Anyone have an illustration of these parts? I would like to see what it is that I am buying before I plunge... Thanks, Joe

I had a similar problem wiht mine, it would backfire through the tbi and hesitate often but more so when damp or cold. Nissan told me I needed a $1600.00 throttle body replacement, turns out after some thinking and investigating it was merely the thermostat. I had noticed that the motor wouldnt heat up if it were real cold outside, well guess what, the engine temperature sensor controls the fuel mix. A new thermostat and its amazing the difference, she is still a dog with not much power but at least I can tell that she is giving it all she's got now... Thorleys on the way this summer and cams hopefully by next spring, already got the RS9000's and a magnaflow catback setup. Good luck man... Joe

Wow, exhaust mayhem... I had a magnaflow and a carsound highflow cat put on for about three hundy, I havent heard the borla system but that magnaflow sounds darn good. The thorleys are coming soon also. Slick, take it with a grain, you'll be strong... P.S. have you guys checked out the Nissan performance mags project pathy? These guys are my new heros, although mine will take more time I am going to follow there lead at least through cams and head work, not to mention the suspension work. Sounds great!!! :cool2: http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/projects/Pathfinder.php

Awesome stuff 88, thanks man... Say, what happened to the site, I could not access it for several days? Joe

Thanks, great pics on the other web site... That helps...

Sweet, Thanks 88...