BigDaddyChris.com Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 its been like this since I got it. runs rough. lacks low end power. feels like its missing. we pulled one spark plug wire at a time and they all made a noticable difference. checked each wire for good spark while we were at it. checked the timing, its dead on too. smells a lil like unburnt fuel. check engine light comes on sometimes. i check the ecu and get code 55 which is "no error". where do I check next? it drives around town fine, but going uphill its just gutless as all heck. someone suggested a compression check next. hoping the head gasket isnt blown between cylinders... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Exhaust is stinky? ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krmiller07 Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Carbon Build up !? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Also sounds like either the timing belt skipped a tooth, or was replaced incorrectly. Ignition timing isn't always a good indicator of valve timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kefferjoe Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 bad carburetor injector thing or a bad fuel pump/filter maybe its just slow getting fuel when going uphill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves94XE Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 idk if it will help but one thing to check, pull the carpet up in the cargo arear and pull out the fuel pump. check the strainer and make sure its nice a clean. if not spray it good with maybe some carb cleaner. mine got where it would barely run with under 1/4 tank then it went to 1/2 tank. i pulled the strainer out and cleaned it where you can see through all the holes. mine was stopped up pulling fuel from the vent hose that goes up the pump. also check your fuel hoses coming out of the top of the pump. almost all are dry rotted and either suck air or leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Wiggle the MAF wiring? Inline fuel filter? EGR valve? Unfortunately, there are many things that need to be checked. Go to the Garage section, and the pinned topic of Factory Service Manual. Download one and follow the diagnostics... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 distributor cap and rotor button is most likely they like to burn out in the middle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyChris.com Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 I took it to a shop today and the guy suggests we start with new plugs, cap rotor and fuel filter. did he miss the part where I said we already did that a week ago? so I'm intantly put off. then he says the vacuum leak is probably coming from between the head and intake manifold and it will all have to come apart and be milled down and put back together. um? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Test the Coolant Temperature Sensor and make sure it's within spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krmiller07 Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Ya know, I went through the same BS last fall. I checked all the obvious things you mentioned, then I took it to a 'tech' and he said the intake gasket was leaking too. Long story...short. I came across an old FTB that addressed the problem of carbon build up. This was published in 1990. Nissan recommended that the service techs walnut blast the intake runners, intake valves on the engine to remove excessive carbon build up in these areas. The common problem had been 'rough running' poor fuel mileage, no power and a low speed idle miss. I wasn't about to media blast all of this. So I ran a couple of bottles of HIGH QUALITY fuel system cleaner through the gas, with about an 1/8th of a tank of fuel remaining. I drove it at hiway speeds and made a point to keep the RPM'S as high as possible. At first it ran worse. Then it started to run a little better. Then I filled the tank with Premium fuel, and after about a half a tank was used,it really started running like normal again. The power came back, mileage improved a little. But the most significant change was in idle. It runs so smooth, that I have to look at the tach, to make sure it's running. I'd say the most economical way of trying to solve your problem, may be in trying what I did. It'll cost you around $50.00 for gas and fuel cleaner.I used Techron ( made by Chevron) comes in a black bottle. Another brand worth using is called (K-40 or 44) it's made by BG Products out of Witchita, KS. Good stuff too. Hope this helps. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyChris.com Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 Test the Coolant Temperature Sensor and make sure it's within spec. wheres it located and what are the specs? do you check it with a voltmeter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Ya know, I went through the same BS last fall. I checked all the obvious things you mentioned, then I took it to a 'tech' and he said the intake gasket was leaking too. Long story...short. I came across an old FTB that addressed the problem of carbon build up. This was published in 1990. Nissan recommended that the service techs walnut blast the intake runners, intake valves on the engine to remove excessive carbon build up in these areas. The common problem had been 'rough running' poor fuel mileage, no power and a low speed idle miss. I wasn't about to media blast all of this. So I ran a couple of bottles of HIGH QUALITY fuel system cleaner through the gas, with about an 1/8th of a tank of fuel remaining. I drove it at hiway speeds and made a point to keep the RPM'S as high as possible. At first it ran worse. Then it started to run a little better. Then I filled the tank with Premium fuel, and after about a half a tank was used,it really started running like normal again. The power came back, mileage improved a little. But the most significant change was in idle. It runs so smooth, that I have to look at the tach, to make sure it's running. I'd say the most economical way of trying to solve your problem, may be in trying what I did. It'll cost you around $50.00 for gas and fuel cleaner.I used Techron ( made by Chevron) comes in a black bottle. Another brand worth using is called (K-40 or 44) it's made by BG Products out of Witchita, KS. Good stuff too. Hope this helps. Keith Keith, have you ever tried the seafoam through the PCV valve procedure? This procedure is for cleaning the intake ports of build up. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krmiller07 Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Keith, have you ever tried the seafoam through the PCV valve procedure? This procedure is for cleaning the intake ports of build up. James Hey James, No. I haven't tried Sea Foam through the PVC. But I have added if to my oil before an oil change, it cured the noisy lifter problem, which these engines are known to have. I ran 6 oz. of SF for about 50 miles in the crank case before changing the oil and filter. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyChris.com Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 got it back from suspicious mechanic. they claimed to discover that a few of the plug wires werent clicked on all the way. they also said the air filter was dirty. and still swear the whistling noise I hear is a vacuum leak from between the intake manifold/heads. it still runs rough. it just has a lil more spunk while running rough. if it felt like it was running on 3 cylinders before. it feels like its running on 4 now. lol bill $200 grrrrrrrrr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Spray some WD40 around where the intake runners meet the head while its running. If you have a leak you will find it. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailChaser Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) First thing I would do is clean the MAF sensor, then pull off the ribbed rubber hose that connects the air filter box to the intake. Check that hose for cracks between the ribs by flexing it a little... If you plan on flexing it alot have a new one ready to replace it. I have a K&N filter in mine and after breaking a motor mount and ripping that hose it was impossible to stop the leak. It was gutless at low speeds and when I needed torque. While you have that hose off the engine clean the intake as much as you can while holding open the butterfly valve. Good Luck with getting it fixed. PS. If you find that it the hose is ripped, check your motor mount on the driver side. Best way to check it is by having someone watch the engine while you hold the brake and give it some gas in gear. Edited April 3, 2011 by TrailChaser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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