shotzie417 Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 I am just about done building my pathys motor and i was just wandering, do yall think that i will notice any differnces in power now that the vg30e is bored 20 over, euro cams from 4x4parts.com, higher heat range spark plugs, bigger wires, msd coil, pacesetter headers, and a k&n cone filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Yes. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Is this real life? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Nope... Gonna be just as gutless. Maby worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 i think if i were to build a new motor i would of picked a vg33 damn near the same thing but it makes a major difference. I bought a z with a swapped vg33 in it and holy smokes is there way pepper than my vg30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 (edited) i think if i were to build a new motor i would of picked a vg33 damn near the same thing but it makes a major difference. I bought a z with a swapped vg33 in it and holy smokes is there way pepper than my vg30 20 over is VG31. lol still you'll feel that, and the cams, you'll feel those too. It will be allot more peppy then it was when you tore it down. I'm not saying its going to be something fast but it will put you head and sholders above any 3.0 with headders and CAI. And even further ahead if you have headders and CAI. Enjoi. P.S. The stock range Plug, NGK heat "6", (bkr6ey) Should be plenty sufficient. You won't need to move heat range unless you bumped the compression up to 10:1 or added forced induction like turbo or SC. Edited November 13, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotzie417 Posted November 13, 2010 Author Share Posted November 13, 2010 20 over is VG31. lol still you'll feel that, and the cams, you'll feel those too. It will be allot more peppy then it was when you tore it down. I'm not saying its going to be something fast but it will put you head and sholders above any 3.0 with headders and CAI. And even further ahead if you have headders and CAI. Enjoi. P.S. The stock range Plug, NGK heat "6", (bkr6ey) Should be plenty sufficient. You won't need to move heat range unless you bumped the compression up to 10:1 or added forced induction like turbo or SC. lol thanks, those are the plugs that i bought i thought that they were higher heat range but all well. i cant wait to drive it maybe by next weekend. will a cone filter be fine for mudding and water crossings or should i just modify the stock box and make an in fender snorkel? i know that when it was stock we sucked in mud and almost hydro locked the motor so i want to do something a little better than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 cone filter would be a terrible idea for doing such things. seriously. keep the stock box and add a snorkel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 x2 seal the box and then open up one side hole for your in fender snorkel. You can see how mine is done below. or if you get deeper mud/water you can opt for a full snorkel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 Hey before you start your engine up you must follow a run-in procudure. Use Lots of ZDDP oil too (royal purple and shneider formula 2 break in oil ar good) the first few moments are crucial!!! ZDDP is a wear reducer and as of 2003 most oils don't have it because newer cars are built differant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotzie417 Posted November 13, 2010 Author Share Posted November 13, 2010 we used lucas oil version zddp and zinc and oil with no detergents in it for the first oil after that we are goin to use royal purple 10w30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 I recommend not using royal purple for your engine oil. use amsoil as it is of actual quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 how is pruple not of actual quality. Granted amsoil is very good but I'd say they both stand above the crowd when it comes to quality and engine protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Oil wars again I see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 *snort* B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Oil wars again I see. I fold... Next comes amount of doors and lack of framerails... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotzie417 Posted November 15, 2010 Author Share Posted November 15, 2010 i have been told by a few mechanics that for the first oil change on a new motor you should use an oil without any detergents, so pritty much pure oil, in it and also the zddp additive, and then change it at about 250 miles or so and then use what ever oil you perfer after that and for the first few oil changes keep adding zddp additive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 I recommend not using royal purple for your engine oil. use amsoil as it is of actual quality. Oil wars again I see. NO war, I'll keep my opionons out. But I would like to know why silverton doesn't like royal pruple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuphDivin Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 I have a STRONG opposition to amsoil. I haven't had a single vehicle that hasn't overheated on that sludge. I took my wife's LS460 (toyota, i know, i know) in to have the oil changed (i refuse to work on it), and after 3,000 miles that amsoil garbage had her cam pistons and crank shaft all out of alignment, and her overhead coils had about 60% wear on them. The car ran about 14% hotter than it does with Royal Purple. I ran amsoil back in my Pathfinder back in 2002, and after one oil change with amsoil I pretty much had to rebuild the lower block. On another note: Royal Purple was founded in Humble, TX about two hours from where I live now. That's a Texas oil, boy, none other like it in the world. Royal Purple all the way! Also, were you wandering, or wondering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotzie417 Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 lol i guess wondering, damn that sucks dude, i have always ran valvoline (conventional 10w30)in my 88 chevy 1500 and never had a problem with it so i will probably just use it considering it has never let me down so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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