Another Frame rust topic, worse than others?

[OldSlowReliable]

You know, guys he never asked what he should do with the truck. He stated he is going to repair the frame. I have seen much worse been repaired up here in Ottawa. If he is willing to put the time into it like he said why are you telling him to get another truck? Sorry it just bugs me when people say they are going to fix something and then others come in telling them its not worth it. Maybe the truck has sentimental value to him?

I agree, idk if I was one of those people, but to clarify-

 

I say you keep it, (wouldn't suggest driving it much, I'd be terrified to actually) and rebuild the rear frame....one solid weekend (aside from prep) should get you all squared away for another 15 years

 

I thought it looked like 2x4 tubing from when I relocated my rear bumper...midland steel in (where else) midland sold me 3x2 for about 25 bucks per 6', and 5x2 for 33 bucks for 6'

 

about 60 bucks in steel, 20 in paint, and figure 40 in welding supplies (depending on welder) and you're set!

[Tungsten]

There is nothing terrifying about driving that, its not like the frame is missing...

[MrPink]

there is no option for me getting another vehicle let alone drive one when this is down. i have my other truck but with the gas mileage(6-8mpg) it gets its cheaper to drive the pathy and fix it at the same time. Myself and my friend are pretty good when it comes to metal work(although he can weld 100x better than myself). I will be basically building new frame rails around the old ones, i will be using 10ga to do the basic shape and 1/4" plate to do all the mounts for the suspension and body.

 

PS: the pictures make it look worse than it is, i have only lost the bottom and one side of the driver side frame rail, the way i plan on fixing it is utilizing the usable metal that is there already and working off that. the pathfinder only has to last me 2-3 more years then i will buy an xterra or another wd21. this is my first nissan and i &^%*ing love it. i have never felt right in any other vehicle(my truck included).

[Tungsten]

while you are at it, take a look at the tension rod bushings, make sure your lower control arms don't fall out

[jj big shoe]

If he is willing to put the time into it like he said why are you telling him to get another truck? Sorry it just bugs me when people say they are going to fix something and then others come in telling them its not worth it.

Exactly. Don't try to convince him he should scrap the truck. He's supposed to buy my old body lift!

[5523Pathfinder]

For those of us who said to maybe get another rig, I think its a simple matter of math. Does the Time+Money(for parts/metal)= more or less than a different rig. Hey, if you have the skill and the materials, do what you want. Im sure you can tell this will not be a quick project. I would say that you are going to have a tough time getting it square again as the body is already sagging, but im no welder, so WTH do I know! Good luck with either decision!

[MrPink]

I agree, idk if I was one of those people, but to clarify-

 

I say you keep it, (wouldn't suggest driving it much, I'd be terrified to actually) and rebuild the rear frame....one solid weekend (aside from prep) should get you all squared away for another 15 years

 

I thought it looked like 2x4 tubing from when I relocated my rear bumper...midland steel in (where else) midland sold me 3x2 for about 25 bucks per 6', and 5x2 for 33 bucks for 6'

 

about 60 bucks in steel, 20 in paint, and figure 40 in welding supplies (depending on welder) and you're set!

 

Its cheaper in the long run for me($76.54(steel),$0 for paint(already have), and $20 or so in beer(I <3 having friends that weld))

 

and Hill steel can get me 2x4 box steel in a 6' section thats 3/16" thick for $38.27/each out the door.

 

and it should only take a day or so of us working on it.

 

 

while you are at it, take a look at the tension rod bushings, make sure your lower control arms don't fall out

 

Checked them when i did the wheel bearings, they are good for now, i will be replacing them before winter though

 

 

Exactly. Don't try to convince him he should scrap the truck. He's supposed to buy my old body lift!

 

 

yes sir that is correct. i am not scrapping the damn truck its like telling someone to have an abortion when they really want to keep the child.

 

 

anyway i changed the route that i will be replacing it fskc the whole 10gauge plate thing, 2x4 box steel that 3/16 will last me for years to come.

 

and when i am there(the steel mill) i am going to buy a third piece of 2x4 box to make my front bumper with too

Edited July 7, 2010 by MrPink

[MrPink]

Well i talked to my friend he doesnt feel comfortable doing the whole rail replacement. so we may be back to doing the plating thing idk yet. i called a local welding shop near me(delduca welding & services) and i am going up tomorrow for an estimate(full replacement from rear doors back) if its cheap enough i will have them do it. seeing that they can guarantee that it will be with in spec and stronger than stock to say the least.

[ahardb0dy]

good luck with how ever you have it done, I still would look for a complete frame, just checked the local junkyard and they sell them down here for $149. I would go that way but that is me.

[Tungsten]

it would be possible to buy a spare frame and slowly restore it while still having a daily driver

[ahardb0dy]

The way I would do it is to take a few buddies to the local junkyard, find a good frame, strip the truck, take the frame home and transfer everything over, a long weekend would do it, unless you have a lot of beer in the process, LOL

[jj big shoe]

If you decide to go with a replacement frame, why replace the entire thing? Couldn't you chop the bad rear section off your truck and weld a new section in place?

Just make two small new rails from box steel (or fab your own) that will slide a foot or so into your frame and also extend into the new frame section. Pre-drill each frame in a few spots for welding access then butt weld and fish plate the seam. Those old "gasser" dragsters extended their front frames in a similar way in order to mount the leaf springs and move the front axles forward. Seems strong enough since their slamming back down after wheelies each run.

I'm not a welder nor a frame repair specialist, but it seems to me splicing in a factory-made section of frame would be much easier than making one from scratch. All your hangers, perches, mounts, etc are already there. As long as you measure correctly before you chop everything should bolt right back up.

[MrPink]

well i am not confident in my own welding as its been years since i welded. so i am going to be paying someone to do it i think. i figure the amount i put into it now will give the rig years more of service for me.

[MrPink]

well i got my quote today... $500-$600usd to replace the frame rails from the rear door back. its the cheapest that i got quoted. so i am going to go for it.

[RJSquirrel]

Is the shop going to use a rear clip, or are they going to fab up a new one?

[MrPink]

they are going to fab a new one from 2x4 box steel.

[tmoore4512]

I just looked at this thread again after posting to it some time back. If my post offended the author of the thread, my bad. I apologize.

 

I agree with Precise and a few others. I have seen frame rot, but this is the worst case scenario.

 

Whatever you decided upon doing is great. The key to this forum and our trucks, is individuality, no? So be it!

 

I am with you, if I can offer any assistance, let me know!

[MrPink]

thanks man, i am still "waffling" with the idea of actually fixing it of "offing" it and buying a Jeep. i cant find another wd21 in my area for a steal. the cheapest i have found is $900 and i have no clue what the frame is like.

[RJSquirrel]

I was hunting around on car-part.com and found some frames for $400 in Kentucky. Its far enough south they should be in good condition, but not so far away it will cost a fortune to go get it. You might check the salvage yards near you for a pathfinder involved in a front-end accident before too many michigan winters got to it, and go cut the rear of the frame out. It might be worth your time to put some miles on your big truck and go down south to fetch a clean one.

 

Just a thought to save your rig, and you some time and $$$.

 

Good luck.

[MrPink]

i have been searching and i dont get much, i have actually offered it up in trade for a Jeep. and the guy is interested. if it does happen i will eventually get another pathfinder but it will be one from a no snow/salt state and start from square one again.

[Kingman]

What kind of Jeep?

[MrPink]

91 Cherokee 4dr 4.0 Auto, 225k on it. its already lifted. has 31's or 33's on it alreadt i am not 100% sure.

[Kingman]

So it's the H.O. motor then. Sweet.

 

Good luck with it, would have liked to see another Pathfinder in the picture but whatever is feasible for you. We've had a lot of Jeeps too and not many problems at all with any of them.

[MrPink]

Well i made a decision to keep the pathfinder. honestly its got every option i am looking for in a vehicle and its reliable as hell. so yea i'll keep this updated with pics of the repair and i will eventually start a project log/build thread.

[nunya]

good you ain't backing out of the project... as tempting as a 'done' vechile swap can be. Have to remember though too, if he wanted a knowignly frame rotted truck for his 'done' one... whats he not tellign you about his that makes yours a better decision for him? (other than realizing the cookie cutter jeep is lame compared to a Pathfinder, of course). Just take your time and don't rush the project, don't need a half-fast worse than it was before job back there... not like it's just a quick hole in a body panel that needs covered to pass inso or somethign...