No Start/Click Fix

[MrJim]

I am just getting over a nasty bout of the Norovirus (love traveling)... But I am back in the world of the living again. I still need some assistance too with locating the "wire under the battery" that when ran through a relay is supposed to cure the starter issues with the Pathfinders. Maybe someone has a photo they can share. The article that was sent to me was very good, but I am still having trouble isolating the specific wire in question.

 

 

 

 

 

-------------------------------------

I'm kind of new to the forum, but up to help, where are you located? perhaps we could meet up sometime soon and compare "notes" ?

 

 

That would be good. My Pathy is down at the moment unless I push start it. I would be happy to drive to you if you can point out the wire that needs to be altered. Thanks for the offer...

Edited May 30, 2010 by RedPath88
Merged Posts After Topic Split

[5523Pathfinder]

Hey Jim! Gald to see you are still kickin'! Yeah, im pushing the next MrJim run. I didnt hear you had a issue with your rig since the oil change debacle. As for the starting issue, what does it do? Are you sure its not just the inhibitor relay going out? That relay is right next to the battery on the right fender. Its blue and has two connectors. Have someone tap on it while you try to start it. Might be a easy fix, unless you have something else wierd going on.

Anyway, glad to hear from you!

 

Derek

[silverton]

Whoops, was too tired last night to realize something had to be altered. My starter actually went out a couple weeks ago and had to get it replaced. Was able to get it to start, rather weakly, after tapping on the solenoid though

[MrJim]

Hey Jim! Gald to see you are still kickin'! Yeah, im pushing the next MrJim run. I didnt hear you had a issue with your rig since the oil change debacle. As for the starting issue, what does it do? Are you sure its not just the inhibitor relay going out? That relay is right next to the battery on the right fender. Its blue and has two connectors. Have someone tap on it while you try to start it. Might be a easy fix, unless you have something else wierd going on.

Anyway, glad to hear from you!

 

Derek

 

 

It started as the typical turning the key 10 times, getting just a click and then suddenly it starts. It was getting worse and then it just stopped starting. Its been sitting during this lovely ice age (I mean winter) that we have gone through this year. I will check for the inhibitor like you said. Thanks for the info...

 

As for the MrJim run, do you have a thread going about it? I didn't see it.

 

Jim

[5523Pathfinder]

It started as the typical turning the key 10 times, getting just a click and then suddenly it starts. It was getting worse and then it just stopped starting. Its been sitting during this lovely ice age (I mean winter) that we have gone through this year. I will check for the inhibitor like you said. Thanks for the info...

 

As for the MrJim run, do you have a thread going about it? I didn't see it.

 

Jim

Yep, in the Northwest states section.....

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25723

[jj big shoe]

When you said" Land of No Internet" I figured you were in either Georgia or Federal prison.

 

Here's the link I followed and here's another link to the12volt.com, which has great info in simple terms about relays, coils, etc geared for automotive applications.

 

But here's what I did on my 87:

First, get a 12v SPDT (single pole, double throw) relay like this one

(any auto parts store will have one)and get some 12ga wire and connectors to fit over the posts on the relay.

 

Find the wiring harness that comes from your starter relay. It should be fairly thin, three or four wires or so. It should run from the starter up around/behind the battery where it plugs into another connector. Coming from that connector, there should be four wires. You're only concerned with the thickest one (on mine, its black with a pink stripe). That black/pink wire is what carries the 12v to your starter solenoid.

 

As I understand it, over time the 12v circuit that carries the juice down that wire starts to degrade and builds enough resistance to limit the voltage delivered to your starter solenoid. The solenoid won't engage enough to operate the starter. That's the "click...click...click...click" you hear. What the new relay does is throw 12v directly from the battery to the solenoid and use the old 12v black/pink wire to operate the relay.

 

 

The relay you bought will have four posts on it numbered 85, 86, 87 and 30.

Connect 30 to the positive battery post.

Connect 85 to ground.

Now cut the black/pink wire.

Connect the "starter" side to 87 and the "harness" side to 86.

 

Now when you turn the key, 12v will go to the relay thru post 86 to ground (post 85) and energize the relay's coil. When the coil is energized, it acts like a switch and will allow 12v straight from the battery (post 30) down to the starter solenoid (post 87).

Edited May 7, 2010 by jj big shoe

[MrJim]

When you said" Land of No Internet" I figured you were in either Georgia or Federal prison.

 

Here's the link I followed and here's another link to the12volt.com, which has great info in simple terms about relays, coils, etc geared for automotive applications.

 

But here's what I did on my 87:

First, get a 12v SPDT (single pole, double throw) relay like this one

(any auto parts store will have one)and get some 12ga wire and connectors to fit over the posts on the relay.

 

Find the wiring harness that comes from your starter relay. It should be fairly thin, three or four wires or so. It should run from the starter up around/behind the battery where it plugs into another connector. Coming from that connector, there should be four wires. You're only concerned with the thickest one (on mine, its black with a pink stripe). That black/pink wire is what carries the 12v to your starter solenoid.

 

As I understand it, over time the 12v circuit that carries the juice down that wire starts to degrade and builds enough resistance to limit the voltage delivered to your starter solenoid. The solenoid won't engage enough to operate the starter. That's the "click...click...click...click" you hear. What the new relay does is throw 12v directly from the battery to the solenoid and use the old 12v black/pink wire to operate the relay.

 

 

The relay you bought will have four posts on it numbered 85, 86, 87 and 30.

Connect 30 to the positive battery post.

Connect 85 to ground.

Now cut the black/pink wire.

Connect the "starter" side to 87 and the "harness" side to 86.

 

Now when you turn the key, 12v will go to the relay thru post 86 to ground (post 85) and energize the relay's coil. When the coil is energized, it acts like a switch and will allow 12v straight from the battery (post 30) down to the starter solenoid (post 87).

 

Ha! Don't joke about that... No prison for me thanks.

 

Your second guesss was on the money with "Georgia". It amazing to me that I have friends and family there with no internet at all. I had to do most of my email at Wendy's fast food there and it dropped constantly. It was free though so I couldn't complain.

 

Is the starter relay also known as the inhibitor as mentioned earlier?

 

Jim

[MrJim]

Ha! Don't joke about that... No prison for me thanks.

 

Your second guesss was on the money with "Georgia". It amazing to me that I have friends and family there with no internet at all. I had to do most of my email at Wendy's fast food there and it dropped constantly. It was free though so I couldn't complain.

 

Is the starter relay also known as the inhibitor as mentioned earlier?

 

Jim

 

 

Well, I found the relay/inhibitor and I went to O'riley Auto Parts and bought a new relay for $14.99. I installed it and "click". I think I just have a freakin bad starter. I don't mind the cost as much I do the task of trying to get to my old starter with the body lift and headers on it. Not fun....

[jj big shoe]

Find the wiring harness that comes from your starter relay.

Sorry, I meant to say starter solenoid.

 

I had the same "click" problem for a loong time. I replaced everything in the circuit (inhibit relay, some wiring, rebuilt the starter, replaced the starter, two batteries, ignition switch in the column...) and still had the problem. I added this relay and it starts every time without hesitation now. Try it before you spend time and money swapping out stuff that likely won't make a difference. It'll take you maybe 20-30 minutes, cost less than $15 and if it doesn't help all you'd have to do is reconnect the black/pink wire back together and it'll be just like it was.

[MrJim]

Sorry, I meant to say starter solenoid.

 

I had the same "click" problem for a loong time. I replaced everything in the circuit (inhibit relay, some wiring, rebuilt the starter, replaced the starter, two batteries, ignition switch in the column...) and still had the problem. I added this relay and it starts every time without hesitation now. Try it before you spend time and money swapping out stuff that likely won't make a difference. It'll take you maybe 20-30 minutes, cost less than $15 and if it doesn't help all you'd have to do is reconnect the black/pink wire back together and it'll be just like it was.

 

 

I ordered a starter for it just after my last post. I bought the stuff to do what your suggesting a month ago so I may try it tomorrow so I can say I did everything. Changing that starter with the headers and body lift is not going to be easy.

 

MrJim

[msavides]

I ordered a starter for it just after my last post. I bought the stuff to do what your suggesting a month ago so I may try it tomorrow so I can say I did everything. Changing that starter with the headers and body lift is not going to be easy.

 

MrJim

 

I have changed a starter on one without a lift and headers and one with a lift and headers. Let me just say the one with the lift and headers was 100 times easier. This was a manual transmission though.

[headpeace]

mine was super easy with the lift, but I don't have headers

Edited May 7, 2010 by headpeace

[k9sar]

I was going to suggest that you run some simple tests to see if it is your starter, the constant hot feed or the trigger wire/ignition circuit. If it turned out to be the starter, pull it and open her up. Clean out all the old oil and crap that has dripped into it over the years, brush out the commutator so the brushes make good individual contact, check that the brushes have travel left and put it back together. Jumper cables and a clip lead will let you bench test it before crawling back under the rig. I had a thread in here somewhere talking through all that as well as running the inhibitor/circuit bypass since we worked on one that had a bad connection somewhere in the wiring. If you decide to try to save a few bucks and clean/refresh your old one rather than keep the new one, let me know and I'll see if I can dig-up the old posts.

 

Scott

[jj big shoe]

The biggest PITA with the headers and a 5-speed is getting at the top starter bolt. I had to bend up a 14mm box end wrench in order to turn it. Even then I could only turn it 1/8 turn before repositioning the wrench to get another bite at it.

Dammit man! There's just no room!

[MrJim]

I was going to suggest that you run some simple tests to see if it is your starter, the constant hot feed or the trigger wire/ignition circuit. If it turned out to be the starter, pull it and open her up. Clean out all the old oil and crap that has dripped into it over the years, brush out the commutator so the brushes make good individual contact, check that the brushes have travel left and put it back together. Jumper cables and a clip lead will let you bench test it before crawling back under the rig. I had a thread in here somewhere talking through all that as well as running the inhibitor/circuit bypass since we worked on one that had a bad connection somewhere in the wiring. If you decide to try to save a few bucks and clean/refresh your old one rather than keep the new one, let me know and I'll see if I can dig-up the old posts.

 

Scott

 

 

I am doing some testing before I pull the starter. Today blew by without much opportunity to get into it, but the sun is supposed to be out tomorrow and I will be back on it. Thanks for the input...

 

MrJim

[MrJim]

The biggest PITA with the headers and a 5-speed is getting at the top starter bolt. I had to bend up a 14mm box end wrench in order to turn it. Even then I could only turn it 1/8 turn before repositioning the wrench to get another bite at it.

Dammit man! There's just no room!

 

 

Yeah, I was noticing that and not looking forward to it.

[jj big shoe]

You could grind a bit of the trans case gusset where the wrench handle hits and gain a little clearance to get more of a turn before having to reposition the wrench. I've been meaning to do it but I'm usually in such a rush to get the truck back together that I don't fell like stopping for another project. I actually end up enjoying the rest while lying on my back so long and turning the bolt a little at a time.

[trenton163]

When you said" Land of No Internet" I figured you were in either Georgia or Federal prison.

 

Here's the link I followed and here's another link to the12volt.com, which has great info in simple terms about relays, coils, etc geared for automotive applications.

 

But here's what I did on my 87:

First, get a 12v SPDT (single pole, double throw) relay like this one

(any auto parts store will have one)and get some 12ga wire and connectors to fit over the posts on the relay.

 

Find the wiring harness that comes from your starter relay. It should be fairly thin, three or four wires or so. It should run from the starter up around/behind the battery where it plugs into another connector. Coming from that connector, there should be four wires. You're only concerned with the thickest one (on mine, its black with a pink stripe). That black/pink wire is what carries the 12v to your starter solenoid.

 

As I understand it, over time the 12v circuit that carries the juice down that wire starts to degrade and builds enough resistance to limit the voltage delivered to your starter solenoid. The solenoid won't engage enough to operate the starter. That's the "click...click...click...click" you hear. What the new relay does is throw 12v directly from the battery to the solenoid and use the old 12v black/pink wire to operate the relay.

 

 

The relay you bought will have four posts on it numbered 85, 86, 87 and 30.

Connect 30 to the positive battery post.

Connect 85 to ground.

Now cut the black/pink wire.

Connect the "starter" side to 87 and the "harness" side to 86.

 

Now when you turn the key, 12v will go to the relay thru post 86 to ground (post 85) and energize the relay's coil. When the coil is energized, it acts like a switch and will allow 12v straight from the battery (post 30) down to the starter solenoid (post 87).

okay so i believe that i have the right relay, my only question is what connector are you referring to when you say "It should run from the starter up around/behind the battery where it plugs into another connector." when I follow the starter it appears to be a thick black and yellow cable that runs to the positive battery terminal.? I'm sorry to be a pain in the butt.

[MrJim]

okay so i believe that i have the right relay, my only question is what connector are you referring to when you say "It should run from the starter up around/behind the battery where it plugs into another connector." when I follow the starter it appears to be a thick black and yellow cable that runs to the positive battery terminal.? I'm sorry to be a pain in the butt.

 

 

Thas the part that confused me. Look on your passenger inner fender near the battery for a blue plastic box that has two thick wires and two thin wires. If you tap downward on the box, it will slid off of its mount so that you can work with it better. The thick wires are the side your interested in.

 

MrJim

[trenton163]

Thas the part that confused me. Look on your passenger inner fender near the battery for a blue plastic box that has two thick wires and two thin wires. If you tap downward on the box, it will slid off of its mount so that you can work with it better. The thick wires are the side your interested in.

 

MrJim

 

 

I followed the group of wires coming from my starter. I found where the thick cable separated from the smaller black and purple and the Yellow and Purple wire. Is it the smaller black and purple wire that I need to cut and work with?

[jj big shoe]

Sorry, I'm not sure what you consider "smaller". I'd hate to tell you to cut the wrong wire. My only reference is my 87, but I think the wire colors are the same. For clarity, maybe you could begin at the starter solenoid itself and follow the group of wires up until you run into another connector. There should be a black wire with a pink or fushia or purple stripe that's thicker than the other ones in that connector. That's the one.

 

Remember, I have an 87.

 

If you're not sure, maybe get the FSM from ahardb0dy. He's got a bunch of downloads available for members. Hit him up.

[Precise1]

You could grind a bit of the trans case gusset where the wrench handle hits and gain a little clearance to get more of a turn before having to reposition the wrench. I've been meaning to do it but I'm usually in such a rush to get the truck back together that I don't fell like stopping for another project. I actually end up enjoying the rest while lying on my back so long and turning the bolt a little at a time.

 

LOL @ resting under the truck, I know exactly what you mean...

Sounds like a good application for a ratcheting wrench. I bought a set a while back and don't use them much, but they were handy when I was installing the body lift. There were quite a few times I lay there, daydreaming to the sounds of click, turn, click, turn, click, turn, click click, turn...

 

B

[k9sar]

The biggest PITA with the headers and a 5-speed is getting at the top starter bolt. I had to bend up a 14mm box end wrench in order to turn it. Even then I could only turn it 1/8 turn before repositioning the wrench to get another bite at it.

Dammit man! There's just no room!

 

I have an auto but was able to get at the bolt with a socket, a u-joint, several lengths of wobble extensions and a rachet handle. About 2 1/2 feet in extensions.

[trenton163]

Sorry, I'm not sure what you consider "smaller". I'd hate to tell you to cut the wrong wire. My only reference is my 87, but I think the wire colors are the same. For clarity, maybe you could begin at the starter solenoid itself and follow the group of wires up until you run into another connector. There should be a black wire with a pink or fushia or purple stripe that's thicker than the other ones in that connector. That's the one.

 

Remember, I have an 87.

 

If you're not sure, maybe get the FSM from ahardb0dy. He's got a bunch of downloads available for members. Hit him up.

 

I just got done with it thanks for all the help.It was way easy and it saved me so much time and money

[jj big shoe]

Good deal. Glad to help.