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Death Wobble Help Please! Fixed!


edicer2
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great glade you were able to get it all done. can you tell the difference?

 

ohhhhh yeah lol. It feels alot better. I guess what happened is the previous owner only replaced one bushing and figured the other would be fine. So the other got all bad and snapped.

 

Needless to say I hope to never have to do that again. It was a pain in the ass getting stuff lined up. Still can't believe NAPA hung up on me lol.

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ha yeah it is a pain in the ass! glade that made a difference. They have done that to me also i just got to autozone or advanced auto now

 

Advanced didn't even have it in their system. And there's no autozone stores by me. But I had a horrible time getting just about everything lined up. It was so relieving to get it done. Now I just gotta figure out why my Bravada lights/grill aren't lining up on my S10 lol.

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ah yeah that stinks...gl on the s10 that sounds like a dirty little task

 

yeah now that the pathfinder is back on the road i can focus on the pickup again. Just lots of BS with converting parts for it. lol.

 

But yeah all I gotta do now for the pathfinder is replace that speed sensor and then get someone to weld the exhaust leak and I am in business.

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I hate napa too.

 

Yeah i was pretty mad about that. Because the guy INSISTED I need a Torsion bar. Then it was a Sway Bar. The guy was just an idiot. Advanced was nice about it. They looked it up and told me other places I could call.

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  • 1 month later...

on my old 87 hardbody when the holes for the compression rod got all ob longed, I had a machine shop cut me 4 square pieces of metal, not sure of thickness 3/16 or 1/4" maybe, and instead of drilling the holes he punched the holes thru the metal, than I had a friend of mine weld the plates on front and back.

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  • 1 month later...

Strictly out of curiosity, you guys are mentioning that the hole in the Plate had gotten Oblong. How big is the hole supposed to be from the factory? Just asking cause mine isn't oblong, but its larger in Diameter then the Rod with the Sleeve on it that's for sure. Anyone have any insight? I'm guessing it should be a Little bit larger so that its not rubbing directly on the sleeve hence making the bushings do their part but just exactly how big is it supposed to be.

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Yeah Dowser, the rod is supposed to ride on the bushings so the hole is oversized. I can't give you a value other than saying my undamaged ones were considerably larger than the rod, by 1/2 again perhaps?? :scratchhead:

 

B

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  • 1 month later...

Just wanted to add to this thread about some other options as well.

 

I tried finding the same bearing that you posted edicer2 but I'm not sure if it has anything to do with American Numbers vs Canadian Numbers, but that specific size crosses over to one with a lot of room around the bushing. I then got a few shops to see what they could find to match up but nothing fit perfect. it was all either a bit of play or wont seat in the cup well enough. So at this moment, I'm still hunting for a correct size. I was thinking just matching up some thicker wall tube so the inside diameter would be close to the outside diameter of the bushing while under torqued spec, which is 116 foot pounds, and cut a few slim sleeves to weld in.

 

And lastly, If you would like to keep things Factory and not Monkey around with jimmy rigging anything, Nissan sells the WHOLE mounting bracket that is welded to the frame. here are the part numbers and List Prices courtesy of Alkorahil.

 

Adam,

 

Nissan does show to still have the tension rod brackets available for both sides from the master warehouse. (I was surprised)

Part Number: 50260-31G01 bracket, tension, RH

Part Number: 50261-31G01 bracket, tension, LH

 

I can get them for you at 46.91 each. (Nissan List is 64.08 each)

$9.95 to ship both insured ground.

 

These are the 'cups' plus the bracket they are mounted to (which welds to the frame).

 

Those prices may be subject to change.

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Question I have is how often should these bushings get changed? I have the bushings, and rods simon had on his old rig, they weren't very old but the bushings and sleeves already showed signs of wear.

Edited by adamzan
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  • 5 weeks later...

Adding to this thread again cause its the best on the subject. A bit ago I asked how large the hole should be and I'm finally getting a bit of time to work on things. Here is a Picture of the Hole on the mount for the Tension/Compression Rod bushing with the Bushing sleeve sitting in the hole. One side is resting on the base of the hole and I want to get an idea on what you guys think as to the size of it and if it needs to be smaller or not. With the vehicle sitting in the garage and myself without a welder or much experience to weld confidently, I need to evaluate some of my options. I know I need to weld in some cups, but before I get to that I need to sort this issue out first.

 

To big?

DSC02391.jpg

 

Your thoughts.

Edited by Dowser
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  • 1 month later...

Alright....

 

 

2 months later I can get back at this project for a couple of days! hahaha.

 

Ok So I took some measurements of the Moog Heavy Duty Rod Bushings and the hole in the Mount, and by my Calculations, the bushing sleeve would ride in the center of the Hole with a gap of 0.1675 of an inch. That seems reasonable to me in my mind when I think of things like shock loading from something. And if the Bushing is sitting inside a cup that fits just right I don't think there should be any slop. I'm thinking perhaps Adamzan that if I don't leave enough room I'm going to be wearing those sleeves prematurely and then the Rod. Here's the Pick. Tell me what you guys think.

 

sample.jpg

 

(*edit) Oh and the bottom left picture was just of the inside bushing to the Beginning of the Taper since I wanted to see how much of the bushing would be left after it was sitting flush with the mount hole. Which in this case would leave me 0.213 of the 0.3805 all the way around.

Edited by Dowser
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personally i would put ur bearing races on and new bushings and see how it is. if it doesnt wobble or look like its going to wreck the bushings i would leave it alone. worse case is u cut a few ofthe spot welds for the bearing races and have to retack them on once u make the hole smaller.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well A bit of progress this weekend.

 

Got some Cups machined for the bushings to match the Exact diameter of the bushings while under the torqued spec. Not only that but also Beveled to match the same angle of the Moog Bushings I purchased. While I was there I got him to ream out some Washers to a bit larger a size but I think I'm going to see how it rides as they are now with the holes as they are. Got a nice Price on these from a Machinist for a whopping $20.00 each side. Funny Story actually but I'll post all about that in my Own Build thread when I update it once these get welded in.

 

DSC00065.jpg

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