ac92pathfinder Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 can anyone link me for the how to on the external trans cooler and why we need to add one? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 External cooler is used for extra cooling power for your transmission fluid. You don't necessarily need one but it will help under extreme conditions. To install it, most units will come with directions (and most needed parts). It's fairly simple and just requires rerouting some stock lines. The new cooler can be mounted in front of the stock rad to make things easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Actually, with WD21's a good external cooler installed AND bypassing/eliminating the stock one has proven to be the best course of action. The stock WD21's coolers are prone to clogging due to internal buildup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 i wanna do the dual explorer trans cooler problem is i got the ac cooler. my question is there any room to put the explorer trana cooler in the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Two B&M 70268's will fit in front of the AC condensor and the grille. Run them in parallel. 70264's fit also, but require trimming the grille Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) here, it was in the product reviews section: tranny cooler thread make sure you change your filter settings in the bottom navy blue bar right underneath the last post of the page. set the timeframe to show all. It should do this by default, but i don't know why it doesn't. Edited March 4, 2010 by nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Here's another one. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23236 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Two B&M 70268's will fit in front of the AC condensor and the grille. Run them in parallel. 70264's fit also, but require trimming the grille Why do you say in parallel rather in series?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 here are questions that i was telling a friend about putting a trans cooler... what you need to find out then is if it has an internal thermal bypass that keeps the fluid in teh transmission until its warmed up. Some of the dodges have that, and many newer transmission do. Transmission do need to be up to temp too, just like an engine (not teh same temp of course). trans shops (good ones) will tell you not to over cool a transmission I see why they are adding it, but I don't see why they don't just add an external filter to stop the radiator exchanger buildup. If its already plugged, then you have no choice.. most will probably say the external cooler won't cool it enough, but thats not what I'm worried about.. you can get bigger/better trans coolers to fix that. What I'm worried about is being in a cold area with only an external cooler and no thermal bypass. anyplace that stays below freezing for days on end is where you will find people that know about it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 The trannys do not have a thermal bypass but that could easily be done (starts thinking about it). Yes you cant even get the TC to lock up until it warms up sufficiently. I have one cooler installed which works fine for winter (120-180 degrees max) but I can tell it will be insufficient come summer. I plan to mount a second cooler in series with a bypass (electronic if possible) so I can select more cooling when needed. A thermal bypass at 120 degrees would allow me to run both coolers without need for selection. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 where can i find a 120 degree one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 (edited) Why do you say in parallel rather in series?? B In series, the backpressure is additive, plus if one clogs, you've lost your entire cooling circuit. In parallel, any backpressure from the coolers is minimized, roughly one-half of a single one, and the fluid spends more time in the coolers to give up heat before being returned back to the transmission. Think about a wide spot in a river where the flow slows down, but the same volume of water is moving. I'm designing the system to cope with long, slow, climbs with only hot, thin air too take the heat away. For the bypass, tru-cool makes an external bypass valve. Its states full open at 180F. It doesn't mention when it opens. If you use the B&M units, as the fluid heats up, it displaced the cooled fluid and adjusts automatically. So, in theory, at least, a bypass isn't needed. Without a gauge, it all academic. In cooler weather driving, I have noticed it does take longer for the transmission to get up to temp, so it may be of value if you do a lot of cold weather driving. Edited March 5, 2010 by RJSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 where can i find a 120 degree one? I don't know, I haven't looked yet... the fluid spends more time in the coolers to give up heat before being returned back to the transmission I had thought of that myself but I'm not sure if a wide spot in a river is better than two narrow ones in a row... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 I would stick with a single cooler to minimize the amount of connections and things to go wrong. If you want the best of both worlds, go with a smaller cooler with a dedicated fan mounted on it. Then it doesn't cool as much in the winter and in the summer you have plenty of cooling power at any speed. Does the stock cooler exchange heat with the radiator? If so, you should run them in series, cooler -> exchanger, and you should have your fluid at a good temp in all weather conditions. Maintenance will stop your stock cooler from clogging. Otherwise, put cardboard in front of your new cooler when the temperature drops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 after you get the tranny cooler all hooked up, where does the air go that was in the cooler to begin with, does it need to run without the cap for a minute? is there some sort of purge valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 I already answered you in another thread... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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