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Jim Wolf Technology


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Has anyone on this site installed after market cams? Been doing some research and it seems they be the best bang for buck? Also I recommend checking out

 

http://www.motoiq.com/Projects/ProjectNissanPathfinder/tabid/104/Default.aspx

 

Seems to be a pretty solid rebuild. Any one installed the Calmini steering upgrade?

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From what I hear the jwt s1 will be a little rough @ idle in a 3.0 but power from 2k up is impoved and 3k up is amazing.

900-1000 idle will smooth them out. they do even better in the 3.3 becuase the greater displacement smooths them out.

 

I am currently working on a pototype grind with a local cam grinder. the peak numbers will not be as high as the JWT but I am attempting to bring the power in sooner and flatter(the vg already has a flat band to start with witch is a plus)

 

and best of all (unless prices have chaged on me) if it turns out well I will be able to offer these cams to members for close to $200 which is a hard price to beat.

 

as I get closer to trying to get this thing off the ground I will start a thread on it.

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the price is really good on those,

the thing about regrinds that I want to stay away from is that to increase the lift by .030 that ammount has to be taken off the closed side (base)of the cam and the lifters will have to fill up more to take up the slack. Not a proplem with street cars and high rpms where the oil preassure assists very well.

But when targeting lower rpm and trying to keep in mind the longevity of the lifters. you will either have to shim the lifters (.030 off the base means .025 shim INSIDE the lifter)or replace them sooner than you would if you were running a stock cam because they are doing extra work. The grinder I am going to says he will "spray weld" the cams in the increased lift areas so that no base grinding will be reiquired. this is the next best thing to having a billet grind and still considerably cheaper.

 

for most people this is not a big concern but if these cams do well in my guinea pig engine then they will go into my next build. And I want that next engine to last as long as the first one.

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From what I hear the jwt s1 will be a little rough @ idle in a 3.0 but power from 2k up is impoved and 3k up is amazing.

900-1000 idle will smooth them out. they do even better in the 3.3 becuase the greater displacement smooths them out.

 

I am currently working on a pototype grind with a local cam grinder. the peak numbers will not be as high as the JWT but I am attempting to bring the power in sooner and flatter(the vg already has a flat band to start with witch is a plus)

 

and best of all (unless prices have chaged on me) if it turns out well I will be able to offer these cams to members for close to $200 which is a hard price to beat.

 

as I get closer to trying to get this thing off the ground I will start a thread on it.

 

That sounds awesome, I look forward to seeing the results...

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hey JJ I was just gonna ask you that lol.

is your vg still a 3.0? I know mr. jim did .060 over pistons witch comes out to a true 3.1L or .14L bigger than stock.

what grind did you get I know you can't be certain of the differance but does it feel good from idle to 2k? I'm sure 2k up is great.

 

I think scniders cams are degreed closer to the stock centerline (early intake closing) so that less low end is lost that other cams of similar duration.

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Yeah, it's still a 3.0. I didn't mess with the bottom end, just futzed with the heads. I think I need to open up the intake manifold a bit to match the port job on the heads, though. I'm thinking I'll get more umph at higher RPMs since currently the intake air is going thru the smaller manifold ports and slowing down as it flows into the larger ports on the head. Then again, I know less about volumetric efficiency than I do about women so who knows. That's why I need to source an inexpensive (free) TBI intake to port out and try sometime. As for the cams, I got the 262/.420" since it was closest to the JW S1 numbers that Schneider offered at the time. I haven't noticed any real lag or spike througout the RPM range, seems pretty flat.

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Schneider Racing Cams has a few different regrinds for the VG30. I installed a set in mine during my engine swap. I couldn't tell you the performance gains though since most of what I feel might be due to the newer engine.

 

Thanks for the reply, you got an awesome looking Pathfinder there.

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From what I hear the jwt s1 will be a little rough @ idle in a 3.0 but power from 2k up is impoved and 3k up is amazing.

900-1000 idle will smooth them out. they do even better in the 3.3 becuase the greater displacement smooths them out.

 

I am currently working on a pototype grind with a local cam grinder. the peak numbers will not be as high as the JWT but I am attempting to bring the power in sooner and flatter(the vg already has a flat band to start with witch is a plus)

 

and best of all (unless prices have chaged on me) if it turns out well I will be able to offer these cams to members for close to $200 which is a hard price to beat.

 

as I get closer to trying to get this thing off the ground I will start a thread on it.

 

 

I would be interested in what you come up with. I'd rather have more low/mid power than high rpm power even if it limits top end.

 

The Schnieder site lists rpm ranges that the cams are effective at. Thier mildest grind is from 1500-5500rpm, and the second mildest (closest to the S1 cams) is from 1800-5800rpm.

 

Are you planning on having your powerband start at less than 1500?

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the goal was to have a flat increase power from Idle up.

I will be contacting the grinder on monday or tuesday and try to put my prototype into motion.

will it work? well thats why its a prototype. I may not get my desiered result...

Part of developing this was advancing the intake. But I do not want the valve to open on the piston. JWT has advanced the intake opening farther than anyone else and with a greater amount of lift equalling the most vavle protursion @ TDC. I don't know how much more room there is so I will not advance the intake timing more than JWT. So I may or may not wind up with a cam the behaves very similar to an existing grind that is midler than the S1.

 

 

branching off ...http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25236&st=0&gopid=462763&&do=findComment&comment=462763

Edited by MY1PATH
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Just curious, I've got a friend who told if I go with larger cams than the stock ones I'll knock off 50k off the engines life. Now could this be possible or not? 10148.gifscratchheadyellow.gif

 

there are allot of factors involved there but gernarally with a mild cam the answer is no. Here are some truths;

Cams with sharper lobe peaks (high lift and low durataion) will wear down quicker because there is less surface area in contact with the lifter @ peak lift which also is the point of highest load.

 

A reground cam may wear out a hydraulic lifter faster becase lift is acheived by grinding off the base of the cam lobe. the lifter has to fill up with more oil and stand taller sometimes pushing it to the limit of its working range. Lifters can be shimmed for the ammount was ground off the base. Also frequent oil changes and not reving high untill the engine is warm can reduce this.

 

A a differant cam cycles a sping @ a differant frequency then it was cycled for its last how ever many miles. For most sprins this is not a problem but if a taller cam pushes the spring to near its binding point it can accerate spring fatigue.

 

Running uprated springs with a cam increases RPM potential but also increases valve seat preassure. this can wear out the valve and the valve seat faster depending on how much higer the spring rate is. I don't think JWT springs will do this. (61lbs vs 54 stock)

 

 

None of the above conditions are guarnateed to happen and every case is differant with many variables.

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there are allot of factors involved there but gernarally with a mild cam the answer is no. Here are some truths;

Cams with sharper lobe peaks (high lift and low durataion) will wear down quicker because there is less surface area in contact with the lifter @ peak lift which also is the point of highest load.

 

A reground cam may wear out a hydraulic lifter faster becase lift is acheived by grinding off the base of the cam lobe. the lifter has to fill up with more oil and stand taller sometimes pushing it to the limit of its working range. Lifters can be shimmed for the ammount was ground off the base. Also frequent oil changes and not reving high untill the engine is warm can reduce this.

 

A a differant cam cycles a sping @ a differant frequency then it was cycled for its last how ever many miles. For most sprins this is not a problem but if a taller cam pushes the spring to near its binding point it can accerate spring fatigue.

 

Running uprated springs with a cam increases RPM potential but also increases valve seat preassure. this can wear out the valve and the valve seat faster depending on how much higer the spring rate is. I don't think JWT springs will do this. (61lbs vs 54 stock)

 

 

None of the above conditions are guarnateed to happen and every case is differant with many variables.

So my safest bet is to stick with the stock cams considering I just had the engine rebuilt.

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So my safest bet is to stick with the stock cams considering I just had the engine rebuilt.

 

 

I wouldn't say that at all. the truths I listed are not guaranteed to happen. I think a Mild cam would last just fine in your engine. A maintained VG is good for a half million miles and when well cared for I bet the same would appy if it had a mild cam.

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Euro refers to the light beam control design used in Europe. It's much crisper and better controlled than lights sold in North America. If you take a standard Hardbody light and aim it at a wall, the beam control is relatively poor with a foggy "line" while a European spec headlight for a Hardbody (CieBie, there are no Euro lights for a Pathfinder bucket) will be 1000000000x more controlled and a little brighter as well. Because it's so controlled it allows a much broader spectrum of light to be emitted while not offending oncoming traffic.

Edited by Kingman
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Any one installed the Calmini steering upgrade?

 

Calmini steering $629.95

Strong & durable but uses differant TRE's (+ extra @each end of the CL) and the older idler bushings used to wear out pre-maturely.

http://purenissan.co...21_steering.htm

 

HooHaa CL $229.00 + Dual steering box Mod $25-45 Jy parts (less than 1/2 the price of calmini)

Upgrades the existing CL to 5/8 spherical busings and retains use of stock TRE's

2nd steering box elimates the Idler arm weakness since it rotates on a 1" shaft supported by 3 sets of needle bearings.

This combineation is IMO the strongest and most reliable option available and you can replace your TRE's @ any auto shop becase it will be and original PN.

http://purenissan.co...21_steering.htm

http://ruggedrocksof...php?topic=908.0

Edited by MY1PATH
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