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Clutch/Bearing noise


Precise1
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Hey there, Newbie here. Sorry if this is long winded, but rather make you read than ask many Q's. Just purchased a '95 XE 4x4 MT 2 days ago. Last night and this morning (being started 'cold') when I engaged the clutch I was greeted with a moderate 'boooorrrrrrrk' sound which continued as long as and only when the clutch was engaged. This goes away once the truck warms up/engine idle drops/drives 1 mile (some combination of all) other than a moderate 'feeling' in the shifter going from 1st to 2nd. From experience with my 83 Nissan PU 4x4, this is the clutch throw out bearing saying good by. It may be a protracted, tearful exit, or it may leave tomorrow. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The truck has 108k, with new timing belt, 10.5X31's, exhaust manifold gaskets, rear shocks, thermostat, tune up, exhaust from CAT back and runs VERY nice and smooth. Previous owner (starving college student) purchased it from a dealership and owned it for 1 year, so the vehicle history is a mystery. It is in very good shape in/out/under and drives well for a 9 yr old truck. I dont mind fixing the clutch/etc because I LIKE it, and plan to own it for years. I bought a Chilton manual (not my favorite) today to read up a clutch job; as I read, I began to whimper and cringe. I'm a machinist and home mechanic; my current project is a '78 VW Convert, and I dont blink at a clutch job, but we are talking apples and elephants here.

I plan to inspect/bleed the system, and go through all adjustment procedures, but dont really believe that is the problem.

Here are my Q's.

1) Is this really something I want to do my self ?? They mention removing exhaust, slave cylinder, shifters, engine mounts, starter, torsion springs. Clocking the clutch to fly wheel, clutch allignment tool, removing flywheel to check pilot bushing,etc

2) If I or someone else is in this far, what else should be inspected/replaced (I understand 'throw out bearing/pressure plate/clutch plate' but anything else ?)

3) Has any one had the bearings replaced in their tranny, is this common, how many miles of 'normal useage' should a tranny last ? (My 83 PU had tranny rebuilt @ 110k along with clutch job)

4) Should I go for aftermarket clutch parts, what are the pros/cons? The truck will be mainly onroad with some recreational offroad. My offroad philosophy is 'you may get there faster, but I will get there, and back, and drive it to work the next day...'

I don't want to get stuck with a headache task as I have other important things to deal with right now. Any do's/dont's. comments, experiences welcome. Help me love my Pathy... Thanks

 

Bernard

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You mentioned that is quiets Down when warm? How about Replacing the gear oil in the Tranny. It May bee a Failing Input Shaft Bearing that might be Seizing up due to Improper Fluid Maint on the tranny, or High Revs in Low gears. I had an 87 Maxima that did the same thing. and 3 or 4 Days later, BOOM. The input Shaft Bearings seized and Threw something through the Top of the Tranny. the Hole was about the size of a newborn baby's Head. Just an Idea///

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Hey there. I haven't bled/adjusted the clutch yet, but hope to do it today.

 

87pathy-6 years ? LOL, it goes away when it warms up ? Arent you concerned about damaging the friction plate ?

 

Mine is barking more frequently now. Usually at start up, warm or not. I also noticed the clutch slipping during shifting on an uphill freeway merge. It would probably last a bit longer, but its getting time for that to...

 

Thanks, I'll check the oil in the tranny. I didn't think of that. Was planning on replacing all fluids (tranny, diff, brake, clutch, etc) so I have a maintenance 'starting point' anyway. Looks like tomorrow's chore...

 

Yep, after some thought (if the above doesn't fix the prob) it will go to a shop. I dont need the grief right now, and my time is better spent elsewhere.

 

One Q left tho, what is a 'normal' lifetime for these trannies ? Anyone had theirs rebuilt yet ? At what milage, and for what reason.

 

Thanks much for the input guys; it always helps when trying to figure out a new vehicle (i've been reading many threads here to try to learn)

 

Bernard

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my transmissions bearings have never been replaced and they have been in there for over 260,000 miles ... I also really haven't abused my rig that much either ...

 

 

just a thought - when/if you get your tranny gear oil replaced, you may have to lift the shifter off the top to fill it properly with the right amount ... the other idea is to jack the drivers side up so you can fill it more ...

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Thanks Matterhorn, for the info and the tip.

 

Just got a quote for the clutch/pressure plate/bearing replacement from a local shop where I'm known by name. $1077.23 + TAX :o

 

Soooo, tomorrow, I go inlist the help of a machinist/ex-mechanic buddy and his garage... PITA or not, I'm not paying anything close to that much !!

 

My last Q's for you gents:

 

Should I stick with OEM, or are there some brands you recommend for these parts ?

 

What is a good online resource to get Nissan parts ?

 

Thanks much guys. Be well.

 

Bernard

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ya it wines and groans when i depress the clutch.

 

Fortunately, the last time i drove it.. (10 months ago) it was realy bad, its time to fix it now, but the first thing is to finish my rear suspension.

 

Hopefully back on the road this spring,

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Thanks Mr Pickles, but I'm in North Cal and thats just too far...

 

One last question... The tranny input shaft... I have it indicated that it is 1"x24 spline. My manual doesn't supply this information, and I want to make sure I buy the correct clutch alignment tool... Thanks again for all the input !

 

Bernard

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Thanks Mr Pickles, but I'm in North Cal and thats just too far...

 

One last question... The tranny input shaft... I have it indicated that it is 1"x24 spline. My manual doesn't supply this information, and I want to make sure I buy the correct clutch alignment tool... Thanks again for all the input !

 

Bernard

Depends on your value of the dollar. Work on it and bust your knuckles, or let it be done even hundreds of miles from home for the same price, but know that there's a pub down the street full of friends with an empty stool. :beer: Cheers.

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Darn it Mr P, why'd ya have to go dangle that infront of my nose ?? Now I'm tempted, but I already ordered the parts. Looks like $250 when all said and done including changing out all oils... Thanks for the invite tho; I was just up there 2 months ago LOL. :furious: :beer:

 

Bernard

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  • 5 weeks later...

Ok, I have been looking into a clutch kit for my '96 in case my "barking" clutch

decides to go bad.

 

I noticed that they sell the throwout (release) bearing separately, so if that is my

problem, can I just buy the bearing and have it replaced?

 

Or is it just easier while it's torn down just to replace everything...?

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Ok, I have been looking into a clutch kit for my '96 in case my "barking" clutch

decides to go bad.

 

I noticed that they sell the throwout (release) bearing separately, so if that is my

problem, can I just buy the bearing and have it replaced?

 

Or is it just easier while it's torn down just to replace everything...?

I'd say definately just replace it all. Labor is the big $$$ here, so if you're already in there, just do it all. Wouldn't you be pissed if you did just the minimum, then the whole thing died a few months down the road? ;)

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Just started replacing the clutch in my 96 last nite. Got the parts in a kit from western transmissiion in Idaho Falls, idaho for Just under 160.00. It came with Pressureplate, disc, pilot bushing, TO bearing and centering tool.

Some of the trans bolts are a real pita to get to but its loose and setting on the jack.

hope to get it reasembled today. Then wheelin tomorrow.

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Hey dkpath96, Mr. Pickles is correct. Replace everything while you are in there. Make sure the flywheel is resurfaced also, or just replace it. They wanted $45 to reface the fly wheel, and I bought a reconditioned one (with new ring gear) for $53. Of course, those prices are for a 95...

 

Bernard

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Last night and this morning (being started 'cold') when I engaged the clutch I was greeted with a

moderate 'boooorrrrrrrk' sound which continued as long as and only when the clutch was engaged. This goes away once the truck warms up/engine idle drops/drives 1 mile (some combination of all)

Another question - if this is the throwout bearing going bad, why is the sound not

consistent - why does it go away?

 

And why on some mornings, do I never hear it at all? It seems that if I rev the

engine a bit and warm it up, it doesn't make the noise, whereas if I start cold,

it will groan. But only once, from 1st to 2nd gear.

 

Also, does this symptom have anything to do with the post dealing with gear oil level?

 

Perhaps these are unanswerable questions, and the quirks of my pathy will

remain mysteries...

 

But at least I know I'm not alone! :aok:

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dkpathy96, I'm not really sure why it goes away (sometimes) when it warms up, and on certain starting conditions only; the only thing I can think of is that the metals warm up or grease distributes enough to silence things. I bought my pathy in August and I noticed the barking the first week. The PO's receipts showed one in march mentioning that the clutch was making noise. I replaced everything in october; the throw out bearing made audible noise being spun free hand, the clutch had worn about .005" into one rivet, and the pressure plate was scored .02"+ on the fingers that contact the throw out bearing. You can ride it out a while, but it's a good signal to arrange to fix things at your convenience, not its.

No, this shouldn't have anything to do with the oil level in the tranny. Hopefully the seals are keeping any fluid in. If they leak well enough to lube the throw out bearing, well, it would be funny to watch you try to drive your truck !!

No, you are not alone, LOL.

 

Bernard

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  • 2 months later...

Ok, the release bearing siezed up on Friday (luckily close to the shop) so I am

shopping for a clutch kit.

 

I've found a Beck Arnley clutch pack for $221, (rockauto.com) and an Exedy kit

for $165 (clutchcityonline.com), both have the necessary parts, I believe.

 

Which one is better/more reliable/etc?

 

Any reccomendations out there?

Edited by dkpath96
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Ya had to wait till it siezed, eh ? LOL, no harm done though. I got OEM parts at nissanmart.com which is about the cheapest I can find. This is a decent site also

http://www.maximumautoparts.com/NI_cat.html

I also use this one

http://www.Nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com/

 

I'm not really sure what the quality difference is between brands.... I just replaced everything+reconditioned flywheel for about $200. Good luck and use a tranny jack, that bastage is heavy !!

PS A 18" or 24" ratchet extension will make life much easier !!

 

Bernard

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Just a few tips for your clutch install:

 

Have lots of extensions on hand to reach the top bolts on the trans. You can do it throught the hole in the trans hump from inside your truck. It takes two, one under to line up the socket and one in the cab to turn the wrench. You'll have to take out the crossmember first and lower the back of the trans to get to them.

 

There is a bolt above the starter that you cant see till the starter is out.

 

There is a bolt on the drivers side that requires lots of extensions to get to from in front of the radiator.

 

An if you have the resources to build a bracket with a loop that will bolt to the top of the trans where the shifter goes, you can use a cherry picker to hold the trans from on top. Makes for much easier line up of the tranny. Will post pics of the one we built later.

 

The pilot bushing is a real pita to get out. I used a "tap" , Just twistedd it in then wiggled it back and forth for about 20 mins till it came out.

 

watch out for the crank angle sensor on the top of your bell housing at about 11:00. Its real easy to mangle in the install and removal of your trans. You can jack up the back of the trans to get a little more room at the back of the engine. This will give you some more room to unplug it before you remove the trans. There is one 10mm bolt that holds it and its heat shield in. A wratchet wrench is the easiest way to get that bolt loose as a wratchet wont fit.

 

Watch the wire loom on the passenger side to the side of the tranfer case. You dont have to uplug it if you move the trans back just far enuf to get the clutch out and dont lower it to far..

 

 

I replaced the clutch in my 96 about 3 months ago and couldnt get the pilot bushing out, so I elected to leave it in. Since, i have had the problem of a noise, the bbbbrrrrrrrrppppppp, sound that i have seen in so many posts. I also trashed the crank angle sensor. I tried to get the sensor out of the top of trans without removing it but it wouldnt budge. I broke the connector off trying to get it out. So yesterday, with the help of a couple of buddies, we pulled the trans to replace the crank sensor and figured while we were there we could take another crack at the pilot bushing.

The tap idea worked great and we had the new bushing in in short order. I waited till we had the trans bolted back up to put the new crank angle sensor in. so as not to mung it up again. Woohoo, no more orange lite on the dash. The sensor was bent to about a 45 degree angle inside the bell housing from contacting the ring gear. This is why we couldnt get it out from on top. I still have it and will post a pic after i borrow a camera.

 

The first time took all weekend from friday nite till sunday afternoon. Yesterday, if we wouldnt have taken so many smoke breaks, we could have done it in about 6 hours. Much easier the second time.

 

Good Luck

KC

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I'm having a local mechanic replace the clutch, but thanks for the info, snosnk.

 

The crazy thing is, the guy was test-driving it to listen for a wheel bearing/brake

noise when the clutch went out! Better that way than in the parking garage in

Cleveland, 150 miles from home, or in the middle of the woods.

 

I got the clutch for $165, free shipping, from www.clutchcityonline.com.

 

Should I also pick up a new slave cylinder? Some have recommended that I do.

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