krmiller07 Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Has anyone encountered a problem with a so called hydraulic damper between the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder? i replaced the slave cylinder after exerincing a 'dead pedal' i.e. clutch pedal went to the floor while driving down the freeway ! my mechanic bled the clutch line after i relaced the slave cylinder and I still have a spongy pedal. He claims theres a damper between the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder ? Any feed back out there > Thanks, krmiller07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Yup, he's right. You have the master cylinder, the damper then the operation cylinder. The master is right behind the pedal, the operation is on the trans and the damper looks to be mounted in between on the firewall. The FSM also says to bleed the damper, then the operating cylinder in order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Agreed with JJ, but I thought you always bled farthest , then next closest to the source, ie brakes. Either way, yes, it needs bleeding also... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 interesting...I never bled a damper before...always just bled at the slave...never had problems...unless that's not on the 87 b/c i never bled the 95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Precise1 has it right. Bleed the slave and then the damper. You can bypass the damper completely if you don't want to buy a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 what does the damper doo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 It supposedly reduces chatter or feedback from the clutch. Kind of like a shock absorber for the clutch line. It's more for comfort than performance. If you bypass it you will be able to "feel" the clutch better. They can wear out over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 the other thing is, if you went completely out of oil, you might need to bench bleed your master cyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Agreed with JJ, but I thought you always bled farthest , then next closest to the source, ie brakes. Either way, yes, it needs bleeding also... B Yeah, but brake lines run out to the calipers separate from each other. The clutch damper is in line between the master and operating cylinders. If you bleed the operating first, you'd push air into the line from the damper, wouldn't you? If you bleed the line between the master and damper first, you should have straight fluid (minus the air in front of it) when you bleed the line from the damper to the operating cylinder. I could be wrong, though. The only practical training I have in fluid dynamics involves kegs and beer bongs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 well, i have replaced my slave once. and it took all of 2 min to blead it.. I only did it at the slave, no place else and it works fine. soooo.... I don't have alot of helpfull info. but i would try benche bleading the master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted September 29 Share Posted September 29 (edited) So it appears the clutch damper is leaking in my 95 and I am unable to locate the part 3066009G01 anywhere. I have found this one for the pickup version on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/235335340912 and I turn to you guys for guidance. We filled up the master on Friday evening, vehicle sat all weekend, and Sunday evening, the master is barely above minimum. Slave was replaced 2 weeks ago and the wetness traces back to the damper. What are my options? Is there a way to rebuild it? https://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=373 Or this possible option? https://datnissparts.com/brake-line-straight-thru-fitting-fits-many-datsuns-nissans-also-for-clutch-damper-delete-02463-64000/ Thank you amazing chaps in advance!!! Edited September 29 by PamPoovey found rebuild post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 (edited) Given it's already borked, it won't hurt anything to break it down and see what let go. If it's built like the 720 damper in the thread you linked to, I would expect to find the piston cup either cracked or chewed up by corrosion in the bore. I'd be surprised if that seal was available specifically for this, though you might get lucky with a rebuild kit for a master cylinder with the same size of bore. But yeah, I'd probably just bypass it. That Nissan connector looks like an easy way to go, assuming the hard lines come out of the damper intact. The listing says it's M10x1 invert flare, so if you don't want to wait for shipping, you may be able to find a similar union/joiner locally. Just make sure the union is invert flare, not bubble like old VWs. Edited September 30 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 Thank you so very much! You are such a blessing, Slartibartfast!!!! I'll take the less hassle path. As a dump truck driver, I never know how much free time I'll have to spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted Sunday at 10:33 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:33 PM I should had just cut the hydraulic lines (using a Dremel) within the first 20minutes since neither bolt would budge. In the end, I end up sending that Nissan bypass part that was $20 and used this under $5 one (3/16 brass compression union) from Autozone, so the path didn't go as planned: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted Monday at 06:55 AM Share Posted Monday at 06:55 AM Stuck nuts make everything harder. Looks like it'll do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted Monday at 08:41 AM Share Posted Monday at 08:41 AM 1 hour ago, Slartibartfast said: Stuck nuts make everything harder. Looks like it'll do! Vice grips got involved and still couldn't tackle it That Dremel has saved me countless times Thank you!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted Monday at 11:10 AM Share Posted Monday at 11:10 AM No worries! Good to see you got it in the end. It is nice to have the option to turn the offending component into sparks. How's the pedal feel with the damper removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted Tuesday at 09:23 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 09:23 AM The sparks was certainly a celebration! I think I may of actually had a beer that night! lol The pedal is stronger than ever -quite impressive! Thank you for asking! Zero damper is the way to go! Thank y'all so much for your support! It makes ALL the difference!!!!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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